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Old 11-05-2005, 11:02 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by loopedeloop
I dont agree

The point of breaking the motor in is to bed the brushes properly on the comm.
This reduces arcing, therefore less heat, more brush and comm life between rebuilds.
OK you do have a point ... But If you just install the motor run it in ,let's say for a practice run . isnt it the same thing as bedding in the brushes .. I think a motor is better broke in under the conditions it is going to be used for ..... some brushes take forever to break in and by that time they only loose there life span ...
Mark Barden .
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Old 11-06-2005, 01:09 AM   #17
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lol maybe I am just too fussy. :
I figure that if I set things up to the nth degree then come raceday
hopefully everything performs at its best and only my driving ability will seperate me from the fast guys.

some brushes take forever to break in and by that time they only loose there life span ...
I actually break my xxx brushes in for more than 10min but thats only because they are so hard. I think it pays off in terms of not having my motor go soft in the middle of a race day.( 12t )

I guess every body has their favorite methods but I try to follow what the good guys do, as I figure they are up front for a reason and I want to learn from them. Later on I can discard what I feel isnt necessary.
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Old 11-06-2005, 02:05 AM   #18
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The reason we break in motors at 2 volts is to seat the brushes without creating a lot of heat and glaze,when you run the motor under full load conditions your creating heat and glazing the brushes and com.
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Old 11-06-2005, 08:20 AM   #19
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breaking in a motor correctly is a must.
the first time a motor is powered up after a rebuild is when it produces the most heat and friction on the comm. Thats why running a motor at 2.0 to 2.5 volts is the way to go versus a full 7.2 plus you get less heat plain and simple.
here is a way to prove the reasoning behind breaking a motor in.
rebuild a motor and run it on the track then after a run or two look at the brushes gaurunteed you will see some discoloration on the tip of the brush(not face) uasualy a bluish color this indicates that heat has changed the lubricating charactoristics of the brush compound whitch reduces performance dramaticly. this is caused by the brush not having full contact with the com similar to using a wire that is not rated for the voltage being used it gets hot!! same here when you dont have full contact with the com it will produce more heat unless you reduce the voltage untill you do have full contact.
Then rebuild it again and break it in at 2.5 volts for 2 min.
with the proper gearing of course even after 3 runs the brushes will not have that discoloration and the performance wont fall of as much as one that has not been broken in properly.
it's simple heat is the enemy here and when you take steps to reduce the amount of heat in a motor you get more life and performance out of your rebuilds
Just a note I increase my beak in times when the comm has been cut a few times because it takes longer to seat the brushes because of the ruduced size of the com and I found it helpful to slightly file the edges of the brushes to it reduces some of the arching.

I also used to use a fan on the shaft of the motor being broke in but have found that it increases drag whitch produces heat which basicly ofsets the benefit from using fan anyway I recomend using a small electric fan instead I got one from radio shack and it also can be used to cool a motor after a run.

Last edited by Jmccormick; 11-06-2005 at 08:31 AM.
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Old 11-06-2005, 08:56 AM   #20
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i cut, rebrush, and lube mine

then break it in for about 30 seconds...it runs like a bat outta hell
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