AMGRacer

I am considering purchasing a Hara Twister 2.1 ESC and I would like any information reviews or advice that anybody can offer on how good/bad it is. I currently run a GT7 and I race modified on asphalt. Thanks in advance!

RandomFellow

iTrader: (3)

I really get a kick out of this quote at Tower Hobbies:

"* This unit is designed and manufactured for an expert driver at racing competitions only.
* Wiring and soldering are necessary. Please wire this using your own responsiblility.
* Because this product is designed for racing competition, it is not equipped with the thermal protection circuit. It is likely to ignite by the paradox and the overload of the power supply.
* Please promptly stop and check this unit when you feel there is an abnormality after you have started using it."

"[I]gnite by the paradox..."????

AMGRacer

Yeah thats why I am after info. All the "official" sites have a seriously bad case of "engrish" and I am having a hard time getting some facts............

scoobydo

iTrader: (1)

Yeah!
We talked about this over in the KO thread.
They said it was probably written in Japanese and when translated it was
"Lost in Translation"
My guess is that it was really lost!
I love it how they are super calm about it.
"If your car is a burning pile of rubble, please stop using the product. Domu Aragato!"

CRASH

iTrader: (26)

The same thing as Kos 2.1 and 2.1 Pro. Top notch speed control all the way around besides the bad translation from Japanese to English. You will not be dissapointed at all.

Later,

rcnewb2004

Using a 2.1 right now (same as the ko vfs-1 pro comp btw, if u are wondering), but WOW is the only word I have for it.

The GOOD:
Incredible adjustability for every driving style, condition you may encounter in the r/c racing world. I will argue it to be the MOST adjustable esc avaliable on the market.

Its got as much power and speed as any high end esc I have seen.

Incredibly efficent (I think i am getting more run time because of this ESC compared to my old one)

The WORTHY (to mention):
Remember to get the "Ko propo ultra shottky diode DOUBLE" if you run mod.

The 2.1 only comes with the "Ko propo ultra shottky diode SINGLE" (I think its good down to 15T)

ALWAYS RUN WITH A DIODE! don't blow up your quality ESC!

Cap is optional, but I run mine with it (infact I use 2), gives the car great punch!

Yes this thing has a thermo cutoff, but its 10 degrees higher than the vfs-1 pro version (which is the same as the hara 2.0). (Well suited to mod runners and high temp countries)

I love my 2.1, so i pamper it with a heat sink (some will use a fan too). (I only run 19T so the heat sink is good for me).

Attach your diode near the ESC side, KO recommends you keep it near the motor, but IMO, makes no difference, works very well near the ESC! (Just to make it sound convincing, I think Hara has his diode near the ESC as well)

Possible BADs:
1. expensive to program this thing, $90 cable to program on the computer or using hand held, but buy one. Programability is the best feature on this thing IMO.

2. not water proof (but I don't care)

3. doesn't bake cookies (bound to get hungry when racing for long period of times)

4. Air "worsener" in 3 seconds. (no reverse polarity protection (don't plug your battery in backwards) , so OPEN EYES are needed to operate this device)

Final Opinion:
9.5/10 for product quality. This beast of an ESC will be at least as good as the best ESCs on the market or better. Given you know how to install and use it.

6/10 for instructions and ease of use (what instructions? Lucky thing I can understand pictures) (ask the ppl on the KO VFS-1 thread if you need help). Programming ESCs is not everyone's cup of tea, if you are thoes "solder and go" people, best not use the product.

9/10 bang for buck. Superior technology (no one to my knowledge has trigger finger .9 KHZ - 12 KHZ VFD with 32x64 programable modes). However the price is steep, due to things you may need to buy such as an extra diode and programming wire. (Costed me $300 USD a few months ago)

I LOVE MY HARA TWISTER 2.1!!!!!!!

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

nice review

thecrow2k

Not meaning to put it down never drove one, but a mate has said a fellow driver has 2 and said there really flat with no punch, however than may be his opinion, mayeb test another drive at your track who has ones.

centax error!

dude, what motor he's running? the hara 2.1 is programmed for mod motor

odawg315

i currently run gtx's in all my car, if you guys love these controllers so much give me reason to sell my gtx and step into the hara. i win with my novak, so convince me!!

to all who are writing reviews and comparing to your "former" esc, what kind were your formers, hopfully not the likes of basic lrp's or mtroniks and stuff, id like to see it compared to the gtx, the quantum2, and the keyonce.... those are the esc i see alot of pro's using.

finbone

i own 2 of them and they are kind of flat straight out of the box. If you really want them to be punchy, then get the set straight from KO's website on the shopatron, For 20 to 30 extra dollars you can buy the speed control and programmer set. without the programmer you cannot change the settings of the speed control, but with it you can write any program you want. the Hara 2.1 will be more punchy because it comes preset with Haras mod program instead of a nuetral program in it.

AMGRacer

Thanks for all the reviews!!

So it appears you need a program device to program these puppies? Is it a hand held device or a link cable? Somebody said $90 and somebody else said $30 any ideas exactly what it would run??

I use a 8 turn or lower pretty much exclusively. I am going to assume that you need to run a capacitor in this case? Also with my GT7 I never run a shotky diode (I run a spektrum so I assume noise is not an issue). I kinda hate the huge caps that my GT7 requires but I guess there is no way around this one?

So the version 2 is basically (unprogrammed) and the 2.1 contains a Hara program in it?

Thanks again!!

rcnewb2004

I'll try to straighten a few things for you, best to look at the KO VFS-1 thread.

The hardware between these models are identical:
Hara 2.0 = vfs-1 pro (has a low cutoff temp, not good for you if u run 8T motors)

Hara 2.1 = vfs-1 pro competition (has a higher cutoff temp, which maybe better for you, if you run 8T)

The difference between Hara and KO VFS-1 models is that the Hara comes equipped with hara's own settings (designed for mod racing) preprogrammed in the ESC, and the hara 2.1 has the carbon fibre like case.

Once you get a Hara 2.1, you will need:
1x Extra Schottky diode SINGLE (or DOUBLE for better protection)
1x Handheld Programmer OR computer programming cable

Run the cap for better punch. I run 19T and use 2caps, gives very good punch.

But just a note:
(You might have confused diode with capacitor?)

Small capacitors attached to the motor surpresses motor "noise" which may interfere with your radio, since you run a spektrum all is good.

However, the diode's job is not to prevent radio interference, but to prevent the reverse EMF generated by the motor during braking from frying your esc.

It is best to run with the diode!

Happy racing!

IN10CT

iTrader: (2)

can someone tell me how to connect multiple capicitors onto a VFS-1?
i've never done this before and want to try it out

rcnewb2004

Hm... I am unsure of your electrical background, but basically you connect the capacitors in "parallel".

if the word "parallel" is not making much sense, then i would recommend you do a little bit of reading on electrical stuff, it will certainly help you in your later RCing endeavours.

but for now, see if this explanation makes sense, my english is not good, so i hold no responsibility for misinterpretation or damages!

anyway...

Make a careful observation as to how your capacitor is connected to your esc now.

Notice which wires your capacitor is currently attached to (on the esc).

You will attach your new capacitor to the same wires that your old capacitor is currently attached to (on your esc). (Do not mix up the polarity! "+" goes with "+", "-" goes with "-" !!!!)

So basically, you want:
to connect the "+" end of your new capacitor, with the "+" end of your old capacitor.
to connect the "-" end of your new capacitor, with the "-" end of your old capacitor.


Its too bad I don't have a camera... otherwise it would be much easy to explain.

Hope this explanation is good enough, if its not, feel free to keep posting questions!