slotracer577

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

Hmm, Never had a problem with the pre-mounts. Maybe a bad batch that wasn't cleaned properly. Hit up Dumper in this thread, he may be able to respond to this.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

WGT and WGTR bodies are 255mm +/- a couple mill or so. F1 is 275mm. You'd really have to hog out the wheel wells to make up 20mm. F103s will work though. They are shorter and wider than current F1 cars.

GhenzZ

iTrader: (22)

Look like theres a lot of complications when converting an F1 for WGTR, and the jconcept conversion cost alot for couple of conversion parts plus I dont have the AE chassis. What are good chassis that are out there? Looks like team assosiated discontinued theirs. Is the Roche P10w legit for this class, might as well stick with the rules if im going to build one for this class. https://www.activrc.com/collections/...nt=27788805065

Khador12

Hanulec ran the Roche Evo 10 at the MHIC. The car was a rocket! This is the new updated version for 2018.
Rapide P10 Evo 1/10 200mm Competition Pan Car Kit

anthonyscardina

iTrader: (12)

I'm liking my X10 so far. The only purpose built rubber cars, to my knowledge, are the speed merchant and CRC. I did hear that Roche is supposed to be coming out with one as well.

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

For most the biggest issue was ride height. If a chassis uses Associated style ride height inserts the rare #4 insert usually puts the rear pod right at 5.5mm with the tires. Front suspension is the easiest to shim but pay attention to the steering geometry.

MCSRacing

we all have had the CRC tires come unglued .. we just reglue them with AKA tire glue .. its the best out there and they will never come unglued after you hit with it .....

dumper

iTrader: (1)

The new Protoform Corvette ZR1 and the Kyosho Dodge Challenger SRT have been added to the body list.

RCRhino172

iTrader: (1)

Hi I'm new to RC/racing and trying to get started. I've visited my track and talked to some people and it seems like wgt-r would be a great class to start in and have fun. I'd also likely bash around at home in my neighborhood parking lot driving around improvised cone courses or something. Was hoping to find a 2nd hand roller or something to get started in case I find I don't have the time to put in to justify greater expenses, but not having luck so far and the itch hasn't gone away so I'm pretty close to just ordering the Gen-X 10 kit from Calandra. Also interested in F1 which is easier to find 2nd hand, but I've heard not as beginner friendly.

In the meantime I've been looking at all the body options for wgtr and was starting to wonder how much the body would matter in terms of competitiveness? I realize being new it will probably be quite some time before the body becomes the limiting factor in my lap times, but I was just wondering if there were some bodies that were better to use to learn with, or any I would want to avoid? I see there are quite a bit of bodies to choose from, but I always seem to keep reading about the same half dozen or so being recommended as the best/fastest/etc. I kinda like having something a little unique or different than everyone else is using, but not at the expense of making it harder than it need be while learning. The Ford GT was my first choice until I found out that was one of the popular choices.

I noticed many cars have rear wings, but some don't. Is anything without a rear wing going to be automatically worse off than anything with? I really like the Alfa Romeo 8c, and many of the muscle car/VTA bodies which don't have wings, but wasn't sure how much of a handicap not having a wing would be. Or for this class can any body be competitive if properly tuned? Or at least competitive enough that I wouldn't notice the differences until I've put in many many hours of practicing?

Thanks!

simple

iTrader: (2)

I mounted a JConcepts Layla to a VBC racing FX18;
Worked out quite nicely

VBC Lightning FX

Dan

iTrader: (75)

I have found that for X10/Roche style pods (instead of pill inserts), could benefit from threaded aluminum post spacers.

I luckily did not spend the money for X1 (F1) pods to convert my X10 '18. The problem with using regular spacers too high to get your desired ride height is they still shift around and the axle doesn't spin completely true. By using threaded aluminum spacers, they are centered and allow the rear axle to spin true while getting our desired height.

These threaded posts are all over eBay in various height sizes. I used some threaded 2mm tall nuts instead of spacers for the front end too. Everything is centered and doesn't move around.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

I like the HPI Porsche GT1 #7038. It is pretty neutral on all surfaces. It's pretty durable and easy to paint. Great for learning.

lowdoughracer

iTrader: (1)

Do you guys find the rubber tire specific chassis to be better for this class compared to making a foam tire chassis work?

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

I have the CRC car and there is very little difference to make it a rubber tire car. They used the rear pod from their F1 car and made a chassis to accept that. The front end is different in servo position with more mounting options than their previous cars but the actual front suspension is what they have used on all their 1/12 and 1/10 scale pan cars for years. Their older cars that have inserted rear ride height adjusters just need the Associated #4 insert and spacers for the front to get them to proper ride height. I ran a older car for quite awhile and it worked very well.
One thing about their rubber tire kit is that you can position the battery inline or transverse with forward or back options in each configuration. It is the most tunable from that standpoint, just like their F1 car.