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World GT-R Rules and Discussion

Old 11-12-2015, 02:06 PM
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If 2s is what you want to run locally go ahead. I have yet to see any equality of 2s-1s motor variables. SO I would be careful on that discussion.

Also the idea that any racer will not buy/build to spec is really unreal. As a Track owner/ promoter/race manager for over 20 years now I have never seen the class where using old stuff that you have laying around becomes the norm. It takes very little time before the reality that buying correct items for the class will make you faster.. The only item that a racer may not have if currently trying to use items they have laying around( and currently racing some form of sedan/USGT/USVTA/BUGGY) would be the battery.Most if not all speedos now will work on 1's, yes they may need a booster but that is very minor, and 1s batts cost about 40% less then 2 cell's of equal caliber so that also becomes about the cost of the tires. A bonus is all of the WGT chassis are designed around a 1s pack so fitment and wt is correct. WGT is not new we have had them racing around the world on foam tires with 1s for quite a few years now.

Now if you want to just talk about speed, especially if you are running on some of the larger outdoor tracks it does make a lot of sense to talk about upping the voltage( ie 2s) But you could also look at changing the motor to 13.5 or mod speeds with 10.5's and still stay close to the handle placement and feel of a WGT car.

Again all food for thought. Above all else do what works local. There is something to be said for having a national set of rules to run by though to help grow any class.
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Old 11-12-2015, 02:25 PM
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With all the comments about 2s being too fast, has any one considered "Changing Gearing"??? #JustSaying
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Old 11-12-2015, 02:33 PM
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I have 1c stuff - bought if for oval (Speed or lack of isn't an issue) I hated the 1c feel, and having other stuff ie: rec. pack, longer recharge time, ANOTHER flipping battery type/charger setting..just little things that irritate me about it.

It was enough, that once the 2c oval class I ran finally died off w/ people slowly migrating to 1c - I stopped racing Oval for the first time in over 20 years.

Took my 1c crap and stuffed it in my 235mm PAN CAR where we run (when I decide to run) 10.5 OPEN TIMING 1c. - it has plenty of "RIP" and the 1c is light enough that I run it on one side w/ ALL the other electronics on the other side, and the car balances pretty well. (If my 235 car would FIT a normal size 2c...I'd rip that 1c crap out in a heartbeat) --

Looking and moving forward - I Have 2 CRC GenX 10's that I bought for WGT a handul of years ago - the class NEVER took off anywhere that I race...and the cars are just sitting on a shelf. (What a waste of $$) but they are really cool cars. With this new RUBBER Tire and maybe some new Spark for a pan car class...maybe they will see some action. (1c or 2c ) but my pref. is ALWAYS more voltage... I can slow the car down as much as I NEED too - IF I need to.
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Old 11-12-2015, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mooby64
With all the comments about 2s being too fast, has any one considered "Changing Gearing"??? #JustSaying
If 2S 25.5 is too fast for WGT-R, maybe I'm not as interested as I thought I was.



My friend and I were thinking about 2S 21.5 setups, like our F1's. Apparently this is faster than 1S 17.5 setups.

Mark
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Old 11-12-2015, 03:06 PM
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I whole heartedly agree with those saying do what is best for your local racing. And there's nothing wrong with national rules for a basis for local clubs.

As for 1c, I'm assuming you need adjustable timing ESCs . That would be my major problem with 1c. If this is intended for more moderate speeds, then blinky would be the way to go. I don't think speed is and issue with 2c, you can't get much slower than 2c / 25.5 motors.

Of course I have never run 1c and don't race on carpet, so maybe I'm just too old school....LOL
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Old 11-12-2015, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by ammdrew
If 2s is what you want to run locally go ahead. I have yet to see any equality of 2s-1s motor variables. SO I would be careful on that discussion.

Also the idea that any racer will not buy/build to spec is really unreal. As a Track owner/ promoter/race manager for over 20 years now I have never seen the class where using old stuff that you have laying around becomes the norm. It takes very little time before the reality that buying correct items for the class will make you faster.. The only item that a racer may not have if currently trying to use items they have laying around( and currently racing some form of sedan/USGT/USVTA/BUGGY) would be the battery.Most if not all speedos now will work on 1's, yes they may need a booster but that is very minor, and 1s batts cost about 40% less then 2 cell's of equal caliber so that also becomes about the cost of the tires. A bonus is all of the WGT chassis are designed around a 1s pack so fitment and wt is correct. WGT is not new we have had them racing around the world on foam tires with 1s for quite a few years now.

Now if you want to just talk about speed, especially if you are running on some of the larger outdoor tracks it does make a lot of sense to talk about upping the voltage( ie 2s) But you could also look at changing the motor to 13.5 or mod speeds with 10.5's and still stay close to the handle placement and feel of a WGT car.

Again all food for thought. Above all else do what works local. There is something to be said for having a national set of rules to run by though to help grow any class.
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Old 11-12-2015, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by flyingm
As for 1c, I'm assuming you need adjustable timing ESCs . That would be my major problem with 1c. If this is intended for more moderate speeds, then blinky would be the way to go.
The rules require ROAR-approved blinky ESCs.

Originally Posted by flyingm
I don't think speed is and issue with 2c, you can't get much slower than 2c / 25.5 motors.
25.5 on 2s LiPo gives more power than 17.5 on 1s LiPo. I believe the class is intentionally at this low power level to make it more forgiving for beginners. Since there are no ROAR-approved motors above 25.5 turns, that eliminates the possibility of 2s LiPo if one wants to maintain the power level desired by the organizers.
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Old 11-12-2015, 08:06 PM
  #293  
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I'm conflicted by all the discussion related to 1s v. 2s, different motors, requesting different bodies for approval and the existence of Bigfoot. WHY?!

If your local racers want to meddle with the standard then go ahead and do so. But as a racer returning after 6 years away, the premise of the class as it is described is a sound one. The benefits are clear:
1) No tire truing
2) Tires last longer than a few races
3) Cost of entry is minimal. Even if you don't have the 1S esc and battery already.
4) The tires and wheels, while initially more expensive will last an entire season lowering the actual cost.
5) Spec tires and motors compel new people to learn chassis set up and tuning (Oh yeah, and to drive)
6) The Spec Motor and tires reduce the delta between the best and worst drivers, resulting in closer racing.

The argument that this class won't be fast enough, and that will result in just mashing the throttle and steering, is absurd. At our track (NORCAR, not small by any means) proper use of throttle results in faster laps times.

However, if the purpose of this class is to capture and maintain new racers and allow them to compete with veterans, then lowering the cost, simplifying the maintenance and creating close racing that newbs can truly enjoy seems to be a pretty reasonable path.

Thanks for the vine.
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Old 11-12-2015, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by BobS311
I'm conflicted by all the discussion related to 1s v. 2s, different motors, requesting different bodies for approval and the existence of Bigfoot. WHY?!

If your local racers want to meddle with the standard then go ahead and do so. But as a racer returning after 6 years away, the premise of the class as it is described is a sound one. The benefits are clear:
1) No tire truing
2) Tires last longer than a few races
3) Cost of entry is minimal. Even if you don't have the 1S esc and battery already.
4) The tires and wheels, while initially more expensive will last an entire season lowering the actual cost.
5) Spec tires and motors compel new people to learn chassis set up and tuning (Oh yeah, and to drive)
6) The Spec Motor and tires reduce the delta between the best and worst drivers, resulting in closer racing.

The argument that this class won't be fast enough, and that will result in just mashing the throttle and steering, is absurd. At our track (NORCAR, not small by any means) proper use of throttle results in faster laps times.

However, if the purpose of this class is to capture and maintain new racers and allow them to compete with veterans, then lowering the cost, simplifying the maintenance and creating close racing that newbs can truly enjoy seems to be a pretty reasonable path.

Thanks for the vine.
You just described USVTA.

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Old 11-13-2015, 06:39 AM
  #295  
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Originally Posted by scirocco14
If 2S 25.5 is too fast for WGT-R, maybe I'm not as interested as I thought I was.



My friend and I were thinking about 2S 21.5 setups, like our F1's. Apparently this is faster than 1S 17.5 setups.

Mark
As a note, F1 is moving to 25.5 motors. Everyone that has raced them thinks that the racing is much better and the fun level much higher with the new combo. The Halloween Classic ran them and the Indoor Champs will be using that combo. Not these are indoor carpet races and that setup is proving to produce similar lap times to the 21.5 car on those track sizes. On a bigger track it would not.
Another note, there are 32 WGT-R cars signed up for the Indoor Champs. F1 only has 17 (and that is similar to the previous years with 21.5).
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Old 11-13-2015, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by scirocco14
You just described USVTA.

Mark
With the exception of:
1) The higher cost of a touring car
2) The higher maintenance of a touring car
3) The greater probability of breakage for a new driver
4) The more complex set up requirements
5) The steeper learning curve

Yeah, they're exactly the same
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Old 11-13-2015, 07:38 AM
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Well, as I dig into WGT-R and its origins, I'm coming to the conclusion that for me personally it's probably not the right class. I did not realize it was a beginners oriented class. It's slower than USVTA, and I already have a rubber tired GT/Sedan car & class. And I already have a 1/10 rubber tire pan car (F1), so no need to duplicate that.

I understand and like what WGT-R is trying to be. I wish the best of luck for the class, I hope it does revitalize 1/10 pan car GT racing.

Mark
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Old 11-13-2015, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by scirocco14
Well, as I dig into WGT-R and its origins, I'm coming to the conclusion that for me personally it's probably not the right class. I did not realize it was a beginners oriented class. It's slower than USVTA, and I already have a rubber tired GT/Sedan car & class. And I already have a 1/10 rubber tire pan car (F1), so no need to duplicate that.

I understand and like what WGT-R is trying to be. I wish the best of luck for the class, I hope it does revitalize 1/10 pan car GT racing.

Mark
I don' think is meant to be a beginner's class. Many of our best drivers are competing in the class. However, the rules are set up to not drive away new drivers.
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Old 11-13-2015, 08:19 AM
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for the guys that are running the crc cars..are there any body mounts I can get that are stiffer..the ones I have are very flexible..& the body seems to bounce around & chatter in the corners...are there stiffer ones??
thanks
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Old 11-13-2015, 09:10 AM
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I'm enjoying pulling my old WGT off the shelf and running it in this class on a carpet track. It makes for great racing. Until you've run this spec on a track with 7 or 9 other racers at a time, you will not understand it. As an example. If I'm leading and make a mistake, I drop to 3rd. 1st and 2nd continue to race each other and I have time to get back in the fight. Now all 8 or 10 racers can do this. What's wrong with that? A class that presents itself as actual racing. It is what classes like this, VTA and F1 are about.

Hobbyking Trackstar Gen II 120A 1S ESC - $48.00
Hobbyking Ultimate Lipo - $27.00

Or do like I did, pull out an old Tekin RS, drop it to 1S settings and put on a voltage booster. Then I only had to worry about the battery. Booster was $21.00 from Hobbywing. Ready for the actual overhead of the class: Tires and body.

If you haven't driven in a pack with one of these cars, you should. It is a good second class for most and a great 1st class for anyone starting out.
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