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Old 11-02-2005, 04:50 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davidka
another oil I used in the past was a gun oil called Break Free. It breaks up gunk in the bearings really well, it seemed like you could run the bearings cleaner.
Yea,they used to use it on weapons systems in the military but I think they've replaced it with Militec.
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Old 11-03-2005, 01:37 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andsetinn
PS. You don't want "slippery" oil in your shocks. No Teflon or anything like that. Teflon makes the balls skate inside the bearings, creating heat and premature wear. Balls in ball bearings are supposed to be turning not slipping.
?????
If it were so slippery that the balls didn't spin, as in they didn't have enough friction with the bearing race to cause them to spin.......then how would they heat up?

Common sense man. If its that slick, the balls don't need to spin. If they are not spinning cause there isn't enough friction, then they are not going to heat up and cause wear. Teflon has the lowest co-effecient of drag of anything lubricant related.
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Old 11-03-2005, 02:38 AM   #63
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http://www.dowcorning.com/content/MOLYKOTE/DEFAULT.ASP

Around USD350/250grams, can stand up to 250C
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Old 11-03-2005, 07:35 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by PitCrew
?????
If it were so slippery that the balls didn't spin, as in they didn't have enough friction with the bearing race to cause them to spin.......then how would they heat up?

Common sense man. If its that slick, the balls don't need to spin. If they are not spinning cause there isn't enough friction, then they are not going to heat up and cause wear. Teflon has the lowest co-effecient of drag of anything lubricant related.
If you rub 2 parts together they'll always warm up. No matter how slippery. Pretty soon you've worn a groove and the heat has made the balls lose their round shape. When that's happened your bearing is dead.

Don't take my word for it. Ask anyone who maintains racing cars for a living.

Last edited by andsetinn; 11-03-2005 at 08:00 AM.
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Old 11-03-2005, 07:59 AM   #65
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hey ummm does the rpm bearing blaster actually clean the bearing
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Old 11-03-2005, 08:25 AM   #66
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This is the only way to fly.

1. Remove the bearing shields
2. RPM Bearing Blaster + Electric Motor Cleaner
3. Air tool (spin and blast them clear)
4. Place into ultra sonic cleaner filled with denatured alcohol
5. RPM Bearing Blaster + Lube of choice.
6. Back on goes the shields.

If your not removing your shields your fighting an uphill battle. That combined with an rpm blaster or ultrasonic cleaner and youve got some clean bearings. Ive tried everything else, this is by far the most effective way to clean and lube your bearings , while also the best and really only way to get rid of all the grit.

As for people saying mobil1, well its meant for temperatures above 150 at that point it loosens up. Bearings dont get anywhere near that im sure , so it would probably be best to look for something a bit thinner. Simple test , pour 10w30 oil into a cup and stir it , now pour some wd-40 in a cup and stir it....any questions.

Also skateboard companies and bearing oil companies would be the best place to look for lubes. I would stick with true bearing oils on this one, unless you have noticable results otherwise.

Last edited by Artificial-I; 11-03-2005 at 08:37 AM.
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Old 11-03-2005, 08:44 AM   #67
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I love hearing people compare these car to the cars they drive every day back and forth to work.

There is no where near the load, the weight, the wear, the heat (should I go on) or the power in these little electric RC cars we run compared to real cars.

Keep stuffing your RC car bearing with 5w-30 or Mobile 1 (by the way, I wouldn't run Mobile 1 in my real car ) motor oil. Your bearings may last forever but you are making you batteries, your motors and your drive train work harder to spin them...making your system less effecient.

And by the way, would you rather forsake speed and effeciency for longer lasting bearings? I would rather have a fast car and have to replace a $1.00 bearing once in a while than have a car that's not as fast as it can be. Do you think if you use a lighter bearing oil that your RC car bearings will just automatically sieze up and stop working?

By the way, I run Acer Ceramic bearings in my car. The only oil I use is Acer SIN Oil. I only clean my bearing 2-3 times a year at the most and have never had to replace one single bearing. The oldest set of bearings I have is in my TC3 and they lasted over 3 seasons without having to replace one single bearing. This is a testiment to their high quality oil, their seals and their bearings. Trinity Royal Oil is another that is perfect for bearings as well

But then again, maybe poorley made bearings with terrible seals require you to use the thicker stuff just to keep them spinning.
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Old 11-03-2005, 12:15 PM   #68
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Trinity Royal oil=marvel mystery oil,which I use anyway on bushings.I knew there was something I remembered about regular car oil,and that's it, it is not designed to work until about 150 degrees.
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Old 11-03-2005, 04:51 PM   #69
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Default oil thread rant........

Been resisting for a while.......These oil thread are chock full of misinformation. Might as well debate politics or religion....

Here's one particularly disturbing quote......
"I knew there was something I remembered about regular car oil,and that's it, it is not designed to work until about 150 degrees."

Well then, you had better not start your car. Pretty sure it will be under 150 if it has sat overnight.......... That is one of motor oil's main jobs, providing lubrication at cold start. Motor oil works darn good below 150 degrees.

As for motor oil being too thick and wasting power......What sort of lap time decrease can I expect if the Mobil 1 0-30 is removed and WD-40 used? Anybody done A-B-A tests? Would love to see some data.

Worrying about what oil to use is a waste of time. Just use something. Except for WD-40, I haven't found a use for it that some other product does better.......
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Old 11-03-2005, 05:01 PM   #70
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I think he misunderstood the point. Motor oil is for high heat internal combustion applications. Start up is a very small portion..but an important one. But oil is still designed to run hot , cause at that point....it will loosen up.
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Old 11-03-2005, 07:40 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
I think he misunderstood the point. Motor oil is for high heat internal combustion applications. Start up is a very small portion..but an important one. But oil is still designed to run hot , cause at that point....it will loosen up.

Thanks,that's exactly how I meant it.
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Old 11-04-2005, 02:27 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
I think he misunderstood the point. Motor oil is for high heat internal combustion applications. Start up is a very small portion..but an important one. But oil is still designed to run hot , cause at that point....it will loosen up.
Single weight oil like 40w is meant for use in one narrow temperature range. Multiweight oil like 5-40w is meant to provide good lubrication at wide temperature range. You only need special winter oil (lower than 5) if the temperature goes below 20c.
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Old 11-04-2005, 04:52 AM   #73
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Multi weight car oil is designed to lubricate from cold to hot,I understand this.So why would we want to use a multi weight oil in our bearings? hopefully there not enough friction to get the bearing hot? the car oils are thick when cold then get thinner as the engine heats up? I don't want a thick oil in my bearings as this only slows the rotaton of the bearing? correct?
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Old 11-04-2005, 05:28 AM   #74
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Noticed there wa another Pro-link/pro-gold user out there.

glad to hear it.

I won't pretend to be an expert, and yeah this is just an opinion. You can think whatever you like....

http://www.progoldmfr.com/products/prodindex.html

Aparently it's a surface friction reducer... (Not one to be easily sucked in by all this marketing hype)

I've found that on the bike it washes out easier than a heavier "oily" lube, and in the rc (touring 1:10 electric) it is very very smooth. Incidentally, it does seem to revive old seized bearings.....

Just chuck your clean(no grease) bearings in a container with the lube in it and soak for as long as you like.

Give them a spin! WeeEeEE!!!..

(can't say how it lasts in the wet - i'm too pansy to run my car in the rain)
Note: prolink or progold is very thin. It runs like water. As for durability i haven't dissected any of my old bearings so i can't tell you if there is much pitting inside the races..
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Old 11-04-2005, 08:08 AM   #75
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Valve lube for wind instruments.. But straight it is aver thin.. I use a slightly thicker oil with it to halp it stay in place better,..ive tested alot over 17 years of rc, and this is still the best..
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