240LikesMotiv RC
02-13-2019, 04:00 PM - Wikipost
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09-06-2016, 03:43 AM
#272
In that case, check your car's drivetrain(rotational mass+ friction), battery, tires, body drag, setup, etc.... Also the straight must have been over 130feet then... In that case, you'll need to go in the 2.9fdr/42 degree timing if your motor has so much torque... My suggestion was for 100 foot straights(indoor carpet) or less... Your motor is very good then, and needs crazy gearing to go crazy fast...49 degrees is usually close to the timing limit...
09-06-2016, 07:43 AM
#273
Thank you everyone for providing assistance & feedback to Miguel. Jake is spot on, it seems the spec motors really like the High rotor in all TC applications. Recently, one of our team drivers ran 17.5 at Timezone GP and his settings were the following:
53* timing, high rotor, 3.65 FDR - Temp around 170F
He stated that 3.54 FDR was good also, but faded slightly towards the end. Temp was around 185F
53* timing, high rotor, 3.65 FDR - Temp around 170F
He stated that 3.54 FDR was good also, but faded slightly towards the end. Temp was around 185F
Last edited by R Dodge; 09-06-2016 at 08:26 AM. Reason: Added Temps
09-06-2016, 10:05 AM
#274
Tech Rookie
Similar experiences with my 21.5 at timezone this weekend.
As far as I can tell this motor excells on carpet with tight tracks. It's extremely smooth and the tolerances are like no other. Not to mention it's one of the lightest motors out there.
That being said I had an r1 in my 17.5 at another asphalt track that was not so big and the motiv was holding its own in the car ahead of me.
I'm sure there is a way to make it work on these bigger tracks. It's just hard to find that sweet spot.
As far as I can tell this motor excells on carpet with tight tracks. It's extremely smooth and the tolerances are like no other. Not to mention it's one of the lightest motors out there.
That being said I had an r1 in my 17.5 at another asphalt track that was not so big and the motiv was holding its own in the car ahead of me.
I'm sure there is a way to make it work on these bigger tracks. It's just hard to find that sweet spot.
Thanks
09-06-2016, 02:27 PM
#275
I notice on the wiki, for a 4.5t, with high rotor in tc, the motor should have about 20° of timing? Mine incorrectly came with the mid rotor (the high is on the way) but almost 30° timing? Should I drop the timing to 20 when the high rotor comes?
Also, I'll be running outdoors on a mid grip asphalt, large nitro track, any suggestions for Esc settings?
Also, I'll be running outdoors on a mid grip asphalt, large nitro track, any suggestions for Esc settings?
09-06-2016, 02:53 PM
#276
I notice on the wiki, for a 4.5t, with high rotor in tc, the motor should have about 20° of timing? Mine incorrectly came with the mid rotor (the high is on the way) but almost 30° timing? Should I drop the timing to 20 when the high rotor comes?
Also, I'll be running outdoors on a mid grip asphalt, large nitro track, any suggestions for Esc settings?
Also, I'll be running outdoors on a mid grip asphalt, large nitro track, any suggestions for Esc settings?
I am thinking you'll want to drop the timing. I'm working on getting thecorrect answer from Paul on this for you though.
09-06-2016, 11:05 PM
#278
Tech Regular
In that case, check your car's drivetrain(rotational mass+ friction), battery, tires, body drag, setup, etc.... Also the straight must have been over 130feet then... In that case, you'll need to go in the 2.9fdr/42 degree timing if your motor has so much torque... My suggestion was for 100 foot straights(indoor carpet) or less... Your motor is very good then, and needs crazy gearing to go crazy fast...49 degrees is usually close to the timing limit...
09-07-2016, 01:06 AM
#279
Tech Adept
What rollout do you guys think as a starting point for the 13.5 S High in 1/12. Was thinking 78 - 80?
09-07-2016, 02:29 AM
#280
Thanks Schwarta,
I chatted with Paul about this. He said the motor should have come with the M-HIGH, not the M-MID as it seems you have received.
For your track, he thinks the Mid might not be so bad. He said the bottom will feel more like a 5.5 but the top will be good like a 4.5. He also said the timing is fine where it is and that he would actually try it like it is to start.
On the XR10 from the initial settings he suggested the following:
10-15 Boost Timing
20-30 Turbo Timing (to adjust power at top end)
Turbo Timing Activation should be at full throttle
7.5 FDR
Drag Brake is personal preference, but make sure your Initial Brake is ≥ Drag Brake by at least 1.
Punch should be around 6 or 7
Be sure to disable any voltage or heat cutoffs
If it gets hot, drop the Turbo Increase Rate from 12% every .1 sec to 6%
Paul actually departs for ROAR Paved Nats today but said he'd be happy to help if you have any further questions related to any of the above. Just shoot me a PM.
I chatted with Paul about this. He said the motor should have come with the M-HIGH, not the M-MID as it seems you have received.
For your track, he thinks the Mid might not be so bad. He said the bottom will feel more like a 5.5 but the top will be good like a 4.5. He also said the timing is fine where it is and that he would actually try it like it is to start.
On the XR10 from the initial settings he suggested the following:
10-15 Boost Timing
20-30 Turbo Timing (to adjust power at top end)
Turbo Timing Activation should be at full throttle
7.5 FDR
Drag Brake is personal preference, but make sure your Initial Brake is ≥ Drag Brake by at least 1.
Punch should be around 6 or 7
Be sure to disable any voltage or heat cutoffs
If it gets hot, drop the Turbo Increase Rate from 12% every .1 sec to 6%
Paul actually departs for ROAR Paved Nats today but said he'd be happy to help if you have any further questions related to any of the above. Just shoot me a PM.
09-07-2016, 02:40 AM
#281
Hi BKUK,
I really would not recommend the S-High for 1/12 unless you are running on the new black carpet, even then I would still lean towards the S-Mid rotor. That said, if the S-High is all you have I think you would want to gear up and time down from what we would run with the S-Mid. From what I recall, this is what the team did to get the High rotor to work at Snowbirds and MHIC. I would probably start around 87-90mm rollout with 38-40 timing. Please be sure to check temps often your first few runs & just keep an eye on your laptimes through the full 8 minutes.
Please feel free to share what you find when you test!
09-07-2016, 02:57 AM
#282
Wikipost has been updated to add WGTR (Thanks Adam!) and cleaned up a little.
tbrymer - I have not replaced bearings yet but would assume the LRP tool would work fine. If you still need assistance with this, please let me know.
Thanks everyone!
tbrymer - I have not replaced bearings yet but would assume the LRP tool would work fine. If you still need assistance with this, please let me know.
Thanks everyone!
09-07-2016, 03:05 AM
#283
Tech Adept
Hi BKUK,
I really would not recommend the S-High for 1/12 unless you are running on the new black carpet, even then I would still lean towards the S-Mid rotor. That said, if the S-High is all you have I think you would want to gear up and time down from what we would run with the S-Mid. From what I recall, this is what the team did to get the High rotor to work at Snowbirds and MHIC. I would probably start around 87-90mm rollout with 38-40 timing. Please be sure to check temps often your first few runs & just keep an eye on your laptimes through the full 8 minutes.
Please feel free to share what you find when you test!
I really would not recommend the S-High for 1/12 unless you are running on the new black carpet, even then I would still lean towards the S-Mid rotor. That said, if the S-High is all you have I think you would want to gear up and time down from what we would run with the S-Mid. From what I recall, this is what the team did to get the High rotor to work at Snowbirds and MHIC. I would probably start around 87-90mm rollout with 38-40 timing. Please be sure to check temps often your first few runs & just keep an eye on your laptimes through the full 8 minutes.
Please feel free to share what you find when you test!
09-07-2016, 03:28 AM
#284
Thanks for the info. The S High is all that appears legal under BRCA rules in the UK. I think the default timing is 47. If you can please explain the relationship between timing and gearing with different rotors, trying to understand what happens with the variables. Many thanks.
The high rotor has more magnet strength which will generate more torque so we gear up. This makes more heat and fade more over the run, so to try to minimize heat/fade we were reducing timing.
09-07-2016, 03:53 AM
#285
Thanks Schwarta,
I chatted with Paul about this. He said the motor should have come with the M-HIGH, not the M-MID as it seems you have received.
For your track, he thinks the Mid might not be so bad. He said the bottom will feel more like a 5.5 but the top will be good like a 4.5. He also said the timing is fine where it is and that he would actually try it like it is to start.
I chatted with Paul about this. He said the motor should have come with the M-HIGH, not the M-MID as it seems you have received.
For your track, he thinks the Mid might not be so bad. He said the bottom will feel more like a 5.5 but the top will be good like a 4.5. He also said the timing is fine where it is and that he would actually try it like it is to start.
On the XR10 from the initial settings he suggested the following:
10-15 Boost Timing
20-30 Turbo Timing (to adjust power at top end)
Turbo Timing Activation should be at full throttle
7.5 FDR
Drag Brake is personal preference, but make sure your Initial Brake is ≥ Drag Brake by at least 1.
Punch should be around 6 or 7
Be sure to disable any voltage or heat cutoffs
If it gets hot, drop the Turbo Increase Rate from 12% every .1 sec to 6%
Paul actually departs for ROAR Paved Nats today but said he'd be happy to help if you have any further questions related to any of the above. Just shoot me a PM.
10-15 Boost Timing
20-30 Turbo Timing (to adjust power at top end)
Turbo Timing Activation should be at full throttle
7.5 FDR
Drag Brake is personal preference, but make sure your Initial Brake is ≥ Drag Brake by at least 1.
Punch should be around 6 or 7
Be sure to disable any voltage or heat cutoffs
If it gets hot, drop the Turbo Increase Rate from 12% every .1 sec to 6%
Paul actually departs for ROAR Paved Nats today but said he'd be happy to help if you have any further questions related to any of the above. Just shoot me a PM.
While I've got you, what would you start rollout for 1/12th mod? 3.5T, I'll probably run it initially in blinky (1S 3.1), it'll be at the same track.
Cheers,
Iain