240LikesMotiv RC
02-13-2019, 04:00 PM - Wikipost
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01-11-2018, 01:41 AM
#828
Tech Adept
Hi
Just little update.
I have spent more time with my 13.5t MC2 on the motor analyser. I have found that increasing the timing had little affect on Kv as it remained the same at 41* as it did at 44*. So I have settled on 41* as it gave the same rpm/Kv at lower amp draw.
Has anyone else experienced this ?
I have ordered trinity timing screws, so I will see how that affects the Kv. Has anyone else tried them? I have already used the long aluminium screw and saw an increase of around 175-200kv.
Just little update.
I have spent more time with my 13.5t MC2 on the motor analyser. I have found that increasing the timing had little affect on Kv as it remained the same at 41* as it did at 44*. So I have settled on 41* as it gave the same rpm/Kv at lower amp draw.
Has anyone else experienced this ?
I have ordered trinity timing screws, so I will see how that affects the Kv. Has anyone else tried them? I have already used the long aluminium screw and saw an increase of around 175-200kv.
01-11-2018, 09:44 AM
#830
Tech Adept
The amp draw at 41* is 3.1 and at 44* is 3.6.
The Kv I got at 41* was around 4150-4180
The Kv I got at 41* was around 4150-4180
Last edited by Waztrain1234; 01-11-2018 at 11:45 AM.
01-11-2018, 01:09 PM
#832
Tech Adept
In short yes
To be honest I didn’t have a set method of setting timing on a motor. I only recently got the motor analyser so I was just playing around with it and it was something that I noticed.
To me it didn’t make sense to keep increasing the timing when you didn’t see any or very little increase in Kv. It makes more sense to keep the timing a little lower, with slightly less Kv and lower amp draw. The motor will run cooler with less fade.
I’m looking forward to testing it on the weekend.
To be honest I didn’t have a set method of setting timing on a motor. I only recently got the motor analyser so I was just playing around with it and it was something that I noticed.
To me it didn’t make sense to keep increasing the timing when you didn’t see any or very little increase in Kv. It makes more sense to keep the timing a little lower, with slightly less Kv and lower amp draw. The motor will run cooler with less fade.
I’m looking forward to testing it on the weekend.
01-11-2018, 01:37 PM
#833
In short yes
To be honest I didn’t have a set method of setting timing on a motor. I only recently got the motor analyser so I was just playing around with it and it was something that I noticed.
To me it didn’t make sense to keep increasing the timing when you didn’t see any or very little increase in Kv. It makes more sense to keep the timing a little lower, with slightly less Kv and lower amp draw. The motor will run cooler with less fade.
I’m looking forward to testing it on the weekend.
To be honest I didn’t have a set method of setting timing on a motor. I only recently got the motor analyser so I was just playing around with it and it was something that I noticed.
To me it didn’t make sense to keep increasing the timing when you didn’t see any or very little increase in Kv. It makes more sense to keep the timing a little lower, with slightly less Kv and lower amp draw. The motor will run cooler with less fade.
I’m looking forward to testing it on the weekend.
01-11-2018, 05:21 PM
#834
waztrian, you have the correct idea. it's how I was doing that before I got my dyno. more timing puts more heat in the motor without much performance gain
01-11-2018, 07:30 PM
#835
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
I wouldn't completely rule out more timing. I've taken my monster max 13.5 to 8 amps and dropped 2 teeth and it ran like a modified. The amp draw/performance curve is fluid. I think certain brands have sweet spots (R1@43), but not necessarily the best for a particular track.
01-12-2018, 09:55 AM
#836
laguy, you have a dyno sheet for that?
01-14-2018, 12:04 AM
#837
Tech Adept
Morning (wel it is in the UK right now)
Just a follow up from my last message. I tested my MC2 13.5t with a mid rotor at 41 in my GT12 ( its very similar to 1/12, very popular in the UK)
The car was flying, I had it geared just right as it went down the strait. However, I had a bad night/luck (partially my due to my errors) at racing last night and the motors temps were high once I got a clean/good run. I struggled for grip for the first 2 rounds, temps were around 55c/131f. But once I got a clean run temps went up to around 85c/185f (at these temps there was noticeable fade). I have always found with the MC2 on a big track I need to run a fan but on a small or medium size track I don’t need to use one.
I will test it again on large track but I will try my timing around 36-38*.
Is the general consesnous to keep your MC2 below 160f/71c?
Can anyone provide information/details at what temps they have experienced motor fade/power loss?
Just a follow up from my last message. I tested my MC2 13.5t with a mid rotor at 41 in my GT12 ( its very similar to 1/12, very popular in the UK)
The car was flying, I had it geared just right as it went down the strait. However, I had a bad night/luck (partially my due to my errors) at racing last night and the motors temps were high once I got a clean/good run. I struggled for grip for the first 2 rounds, temps were around 55c/131f. But once I got a clean run temps went up to around 85c/185f (at these temps there was noticeable fade). I have always found with the MC2 on a big track I need to run a fan but on a small or medium size track I don’t need to use one.
I will test it again on large track but I will try my timing around 36-38*.
Is the general consesnous to keep your MC2 below 160f/71c?
Can anyone provide information/details at what temps they have experienced motor fade/power loss?
Last edited by Waztrain1234; 01-14-2018 at 02:33 AM.
01-14-2018, 06:52 AM
#839
Tech Adept
Jorge T - just to clarify, are you saying that there will be long term damage if the rotor reaches 180f ? My understand is that there will be long term damage if the motor continues to run hot.
My aim is to keep the motor below 160f.
My aim is to keep the motor below 160f.
01-14-2018, 02:52 PM
#840
The new stators can take the heat and keep on going. Unlike in the past that the insulator melted if the motor overheated causing a short.
With all the new motors if the get hot (up to a point) a new rotor and the motor is strong again.