Boostinswifty38

iTrader: (6)

I personally run the t3 hard front bumper on my car with the taller plastic standoffs for it too. Adds weight to the car to make weight for the class (sedan), and gives the car more front weight.

jlfx car audio

iTrader: (37)

I've ran the EAM front bumper on the T4 and the A800 without any issues so I would think the BSR would fit the T4 as well .

jlfx car audio

iTrader: (37)

Weight in the front is the worst place to add weight to make weight btw.
Tho I find it odd your under weight in the T4 . I was having to get creative to attempt to get it light without any success .

Boostinswifty38

iTrader: (6)

I need to experiment more with the weight settings, but curious, why is it the worst? Perhaps this is something i need to work out and change more.

Now that weight is 1350, i have light motor, light battery, aluminum screws, spool, graphite arms, etc. i added weights to the avid chassis yesterday to get the car back up to weight-biggest difference was the battery being tons lighter.

jlfx car audio

iTrader: (37)

Got ya . running stock we were still trying to make the big packs balance out in a light car, with no luck getting it below a 1372. Tho I fixed that issue by going to a A800 . lol now back to adding weight to hit min
As far as the weight , any weight place in front or behind the wheels makes a more aggressive approach to tuning .
By adding weight in front of the front wheels it adds 2x as much weight to the front bias (by transfering more weight from the rear ) and in our findings on carpet (better testing ground for setup changes ) adding any weight to the front of the car takes away steering in faster areas of the track (over 5mph) and makes the car slower change dirrections several top drivers will agree

Boostinswifty38

iTrader: (6)

Lol fuck me. Thats exactly the issues ive had. Guess i need to order a different bumper thats firm and the lower stands. Recommendations?

I had ran heavier packs and was always at 1380. Yesterday car alone was 1286. Minus body. Body weight averages around 89 grams, so depending on which body i run, i add body clips or weights. Same with if i swap front gear diff or spool. Add layshaft screws, or whatnot. Its always a tradeoff, but i do my best to maintain that min weight.

jlfx car audio

iTrader: (37)

Eam has one . actually 2 a solid firm bumper and one that has cutouts .
I like the solid bumper since I do but things often

Boostinswifty38

iTrader: (6)

Sometimes bumping is the name of the game. Especially on our local "grinder" tracks. People and rails just get in my way, so push to pass! I need to get that bumper. Ill scale my car later and see bias with the bumper on and without.

rcdreamer

Sorry guys, cant contribute towards bumpers. I have a setup query, hopefully someone can explain. I got my 2016 kit about 2 months ago, took it to the track for initial run, built it to the book standard with the exception of 5k rear diff oil, 2.6 f springs and 2 deg rear toe. Im about half a second / lap off the fast guys, which I'm not to worried about as I'm a bit rusty after a 5 year sebbatical. What I felt is im lacking mid and exit on power cornering speed, seems to be pushing as is. I then decided to download quite a few setup sheets, Bruno, Hagberg, etc and noticed a consistant change both and others are employing, the front susp eccentric bushings. They seem to go with in the FF 1 out and lowest, FR 0,5 lowest out position, that imposes anti-dive from what I understand. Why on earth do most of them prefer this???. I have changed mine to this setup, not tested as yet and not quite sure if this will help solving my cornering dilema, can anyone please explain this. Oh, I'm running on outdoor asphalt track, med traction.

alecladanga

iTrader: (5)

this is the bumper I use, fits well with the T4, harder than the stock and wider at the front as well, thus no need for extra padding.

lpittman

iTrader: (7)

That's what I run as well on both my modified car and my stock car on asphalt. With that lower front arm setting the car simply puts down a lot more front grip and the car turns a lot harder.

The lower arms basically allow the front of the car to roll more and gets that outside tire to dig in harder.

From my experience the increased width of the front end makes the car more stable and easier to drive, however I found it takes away a tiny bit of grip.

You'll probably need to add back a little more rear toe once you make that change as you'll probably find the car to be loose on power.

I would start with the 1mm down and out in the front, 2* camber all around, 2.5* toe in in the rear, standard rear lower pin height, 1* toe out in the front, 1.3 sway bar front, 1.2 sway bar rear.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

For outdoor low-med traction, deffiently follow the Alex and Bruno setups. Work very well.

Moving the front pins to their positions does a number of things.
It lowers the front roll centre quite a bit over stock.
It widens the front end, but by the pins, which in turn also moves the lower front shocks out a bit, making them behave a bit stiffer.
It adds anti-dive (0.5°), and arm sweep (also 0.5°).

All these factors together help to give the car more front end, whilst also more stable on the brakes.

One thing I haven't yet tried, but can be considered, is that if you don't want/need to run anti dive, run the same inserts, but then add 0.3mm of washers under the FF block to raise it back up. Then it is sweep only.

If your struggling with mid to exit steering. Then try some of the following over the kit setup.
1mm front camber link shim - gives more steering all round
Rear shocks to hole 2 - more mid rotation. I hate driving the car in hole 3.. car feels broken to me!
Remove the layshaft screws - gives the car more all round grip, but also adds steering... adding the screws actually locks the rear of the car down in my experience. There is a reason why almost none of the outdoor settings use those screws 😉

HiH
Ed

erchn

iTrader: (7)

Good explanation Ed. Locally we've been running narrow hexes with the wider front pin setup, you keep many of the benefits mentioned, but it wakes the car up a bit.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Good point. Totally forgot about the narrow hexes
. Really do help to grip the car up, both in front and rear.
Even with the wider pin position, car actually ends up slightly narrower with the narrow hexes, so you naturally get more bite anyway.
Wider pins (FF 1.0 down&out, FR 0.5 down&out) adds about 0.9mm to width, whereas hexes take away 1.5mm

I've only really used kit hexes on the rear on carpet, otherwise it's narrow all round everywhere.

Alex terms them standard hexes for good reason now 😂.

rcdreamer

Thanks so much guys, great explanations, makes so much sense. I have a pair of narrow hexes which I will add to the front. Local supplier has run out, will back order a pair for the rears. I would hazard a guess and add that with the wider front suspension it theorectically reduces drive shaft length which further wakes up the front end.