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Xray T4 2016

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Old 03-17-2017, 02:10 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Xray T4 2016
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Last edit by: R Dodge
Welcome to the XRAY T4'16 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time.

Tips & Tricks:

Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles

How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body
Setting static camber
How to mount weight on your chassis Part1
How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies
Simple troubleshooting guide
How to mount the battery on your chassis
How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson
Utilizing Exponential and RMode on the M12S
How to mount weight on your chassis Part2

Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful tips on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit.

1- Carbon Parts
2-Suspension
3-Solid Axle and Differential
4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain
5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD)
6-Front & Rear Suspension
7-Tweak
8-Anti-Roll Bar
9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL)
10-Bumper & Body
11-Shocks
12-Steering

New Graphite Hubs:
Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options.

Option Parts to consider:
XRA301196 T4 Graphite Upper Deck 1.6mm V2
XRA301226 Foam Bumper – Hard - highly recommend
XRA302165 Composite Front Suspension Arm 2-Hole – Hard
XRA302169 Composite Front Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar
XRA303169 Composite Rear Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar
XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel - highly recommend
XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4)
XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2)
XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder
XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2)
XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2)
XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2)
Specific to Asphalt:
XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA308039 Aluminum Progressive Shock System – Set (QTY 2)

Specific to Carpet:

XRA301141 T4 Aluminum Flex Chassis 2mm
XRA302375 Composite C-Hub Right – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA302376 Composite C-Hub Left – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA303711-O Aluminum Rear Lower Suspension Holder – Front – RF
Recent Setups:
3 July 2016 - Alex Hagberg - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 2nd
3 July 2016 - Bruno Coelho - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
3 July 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - European Championship - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 June 2016 - Max Kuenning - Reedy - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
29 June 2016 - Keith Yu - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + 2nd
29 June 2016 - Eric Anderson - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - 3rd

15 May 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - Mod - TQ + Win
15 May 2016 - Mattia Collina - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - 13.5 - Win

17 April 2016 - Max Kuenning - MHIC - Carpet - Mod - 4th

10 April 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 2nd
10 April 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 4th
10 April 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

22 March 2016 - Paul LeMieux - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
22 March 2016 - Luke Pittman - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - 3rd

6 March 2016 - Chris Adams - ROAR Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 March 2016 - Craig Xavier - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 4th
6 March 2016 - Eric Anderson - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 5th

6 February 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 February 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - 2nd

31 January 2016 - Alex Hagberg - Snowbirds - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
31 January 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - Snowbirds - Carpet - All - See Comments
31 January 2016 - Drew Ellis - Snowbirds - Carpet - 13.5 - 4th
31 January 2016 - Robbie Dodge - Snowbirds - Carpet - 17.5 - Win

13 December 2015 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 3rd
13 December 2015 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 4th
13 December 2015 - Olly Jeffries - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 7th
13 December 2015 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 November 2015 - Paul LeMieux - US Indoor Champs - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win

25 October 2015 - Eric Anderson - Stock Wars - Carpet - 17.5 - 2nd

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Old 06-06-2016, 10:07 PM
  #781  
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Originally Posted by rekim View Post
i dont really have a local track. i suppose if its too fast i can just de-tune it from my remote
Most tracks, or any track you travel to, will almost always have a 17.5 TC class. 13.5 is not very common, especially for indoor carpet tracks. Personally i would go with 17.5 over 13.5. Buy a motor from the used section on RCTech or a local.

Another popular option is USGT which uses a 21.5 motor.
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Old 06-07-2016, 01:10 AM
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It really depends on where you are. 13.5T (blinky) is often called "super stock" class.

Here in Germany, 13.5T (blinky) it's the "TC Sport" class (one below "TC Modified" - open motors, open ESC usually up to 4.5T, and above "TC Hobby" - 17.5T, blinky, fixed timing motors and limited gearing). In the US, people tend to use slower motors in TC as well (21.5 and 25.5T for USGT or USVTA classes, for example).

So for some, it's a medium speed class, for others it's beyond what they're used to already.
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Old 06-07-2016, 02:09 AM
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I've been using the new RSD fan mount and spool cups in mod for a little while before they were released publicly and can say both products are top notch, and work beautifully. If you're in the market for either I highly recommend both. A little bit of grease on the pins and you're good to go.

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Old 06-07-2016, 02:14 AM
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Originally Posted by bkspeedo View Post
Most tracks, or any track you travel to, will almost always have a 17.5 TC class. 13.5 is not very common, especially for indoor carpet tracks. Personally i would go with 17.5 over 13.5. Buy a motor from the used section on RCTech or a local.

Another popular option is USGT which uses a 21.5 motor.
Best advice.
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Old 06-07-2016, 03:00 PM
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i have a couple of extra 13.5, but i can put a 13.5 in my offroad and put the 17.5 in the t4 if i need to. The gearing i ordered though is for a 13.5.

I do not want to compete with my rc cars, i just like to drive around and enjoy myself. i have only ever been to track two times and the track employee was a jerk so i never went back. I havent been to the local on-road track, but i have such a bad taste, i would prefer to just do my own thing.

with that said, realistically, is a 13.5 going to be so fast that it will be hard to control or is it ok
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Old 06-08-2016, 12:38 AM
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Just go to youtube and search for ETS races in the Pro Stock (not Modified) TC class - there you can see the speed of a 13.5T class (although the rules specify blinky mode, certain motor (used to be fixed timing) and a max gear ratio allowed)
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Old 06-08-2016, 12:57 AM
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On an open flat surface, 13.5 is easy enough. Around a track, it's more challenging. Some comparisons:

13.5 Blinky: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkFYrgKw1aY
Open: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ye--gmRXZFI
21.5 Blinky: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U39YLegXyRk

Phil.
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Old 06-08-2016, 03:25 PM
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thanks for the links.

i have a Hobbywing 21.5 Bandit G2 that i was going to return, but i will try that to start with instead of the 13.5
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Old 06-08-2016, 11:37 PM
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Hello, does anyone have video links of Alex and Francesco rebuilding xray shocks, thanks
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Old 06-09-2016, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Nuno Gancho View Post
Hello, does anyone have video links of Alex and Francesco rebuilding xray shocks, thanks
This one?!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLMyIvuCQig
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Old 06-09-2016, 09:05 PM
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Thanks.
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Old 06-10-2016, 02:40 PM
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If anyone has a bnip 301141 flexy alloy chassis.. pm me, trying to get hold of one, and no stock atm.
Cheers
Ed

Last edited by TryHard; 06-13-2016 at 06:43 AM.
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Old 06-14-2016, 03:47 PM
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i finally got the car built. i have a few questions.

1. is there any way to get a shorty in this car or do you have to use a regular sized battery.
2. i broke my rear belt because a pebble happened to get caught in the gear. is this common to break belts? or just bad luck. is there any reason why i should not put a cover over the hole of the frame by the gear to help the stones stay out?

i did find 21.5 feels really slow compared to my off road buggies which run 17.5. i still have the gearing for the 13.5 that i bought so i might put those in to see how i like it. i might have the car too low to the ground for driving it outside. i heard it throw every pebble on the parking lot.
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Old 06-14-2016, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by rekim View Post
i finally got the car built. i have a few questions.

1. is there any way to get a shorty in this car or do you have to use a regular sized battery.
2. i broke my rear belt because a pebble happened to get caught in the gear. is this common to break belts? or just bad luck. is there any reason why i should not put a cover over the hole on the gear to help the stones stay out?

i did find 21.5 feels really slow compared to my off road buggies which run 17.5. i still have the gearing for the 13.5 that i bought so i might put those in to see how i like it. i might have the car too low to the ground for driving it outside. i heard it throw every pebble on the parking lot.
I've seen some people wrangle shorty batteries in the car, but regular sized lipos definitely fit well and balance the car nicely.

Regarding the belt - you just got unlucky. I've never actually broken a belt (have worn a couple out though). If you regularly drive on really dirty surfaces you could try putting a chassis protector on the car which could help a little, however rocks/pebbles can still fly up and get caught in other places.
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Old 06-14-2016, 04:32 PM
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i am hoping someone can help me with the gearing

to get the final drive ratio for this car, you take (spur/pinion)*1.9

that will give you the final drive, however, how do you know which motor to use that for.
for example, from searching i got 104t and 42t spur and pinion, which gives 4.7 final drive. i am using this on my 21.5 motor.

if i put this on my 13.5 motor, the final drive ratio will still be the same. Does this mean its safe to use on my 13.5 like it was on my 21.5?

how do you figure out what gear to use for the different turn motors?
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