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Xray T4 2016

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Old 03-17-2017, 02:10 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Xray T4 2016
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Welcome to the XRAY T4'16 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time.

Tips & Tricks:

Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles

How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body
Setting static camber
How to mount weight on your chassis Part1
How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies
Simple troubleshooting guide
How to mount the battery on your chassis
How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson
Utilizing Exponential and RMode on the M12S
How to mount weight on your chassis Part2

Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful tips on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit.

1- Carbon Parts
2-Suspension
3-Solid Axle and Differential
4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain
5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD)
6-Front & Rear Suspension
7-Tweak
8-Anti-Roll Bar
9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL)
10-Bumper & Body
11-Shocks
12-Steering

New Graphite Hubs:
Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options.

Option Parts to consider:
XRA301196 T4 Graphite Upper Deck 1.6mm V2
XRA301226 Foam Bumper – Hard - highly recommend
XRA302165 Composite Front Suspension Arm 2-Hole – Hard
XRA302169 Composite Front Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar
XRA303169 Composite Rear Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar
XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel - highly recommend
XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4)
XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2)
XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder
XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2)
XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2)
XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2)
Specific to Asphalt:
XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA308039 Aluminum Progressive Shock System – Set (QTY 2)

Specific to Carpet:

XRA301141 T4 Aluminum Flex Chassis 2mm
XRA302375 Composite C-Hub Right – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA302376 Composite C-Hub Left – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA303711-O Aluminum Rear Lower Suspension Holder – Front – RF
Recent Setups:
3 July 2016 - Alex Hagberg - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 2nd
3 July 2016 - Bruno Coelho - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
3 July 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - European Championship - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 June 2016 - Max Kuenning - Reedy - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
29 June 2016 - Keith Yu - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + 2nd
29 June 2016 - Eric Anderson - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - 3rd

15 May 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - Mod - TQ + Win
15 May 2016 - Mattia Collina - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - 13.5 - Win

17 April 2016 - Max Kuenning - MHIC - Carpet - Mod - 4th

10 April 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 2nd
10 April 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 4th
10 April 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

22 March 2016 - Paul LeMieux - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
22 March 2016 - Luke Pittman - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - 3rd

6 March 2016 - Chris Adams - ROAR Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 March 2016 - Craig Xavier - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 4th
6 March 2016 - Eric Anderson - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 5th

6 February 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 February 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - 2nd

31 January 2016 - Alex Hagberg - Snowbirds - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
31 January 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - Snowbirds - Carpet - All - See Comments
31 January 2016 - Drew Ellis - Snowbirds - Carpet - 13.5 - 4th
31 January 2016 - Robbie Dodge - Snowbirds - Carpet - 17.5 - Win

13 December 2015 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 3rd
13 December 2015 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 4th
13 December 2015 - Olly Jeffries - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 7th
13 December 2015 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 November 2015 - Paul LeMieux - US Indoor Champs - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win

25 October 2015 - Eric Anderson - Stock Wars - Carpet - 17.5 - 2nd

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Old 03-20-2016, 02:52 PM
  #631  
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The change for diff high/low is more to do with the driveshaft angle than the CG
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Old 03-20-2016, 03:17 PM
  #632  
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
The change for diff high/low is more to do with the driveshaft angle than the CG
In my experience having the diff up has always been the most effective for both axle angle and CG dynamics.
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Old 03-20-2016, 04:58 PM
  #633  
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Just finished my build - what are the most common spares I'll need?

I know it looks cool, but the black on black on black parts assemblies nearly killed me. A few different colours would surely make construction and maintenance a whole lot easier

Phil.

Last edited by PDR; 03-20-2016 at 05:43 PM.
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Old 03-20-2016, 05:27 PM
  #634  
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Originally Posted by PDR View Post
Just finished my build - what are the most common spares I'll need?

I know it looks cool, but the black on black on black parts assemblies nearly killed me. A different colours would surely make construction and maintenance a whole lot easier

Phil.
The car is so damn tough...
I don't think you need to store anything particularly.
If you have to, I would get a pair of c hubs and front arms and be done with it. I only destroyed a c hub during my 2 month owner ship.

Honestly, I think don't think you need anything if you are a cleaner driver.
But coming from Trf 419, storing chubs had become my habit, lol.
Also, get a few spare bearings( forgot the size, but they were probably something like 5x10x2.5, the one used on wheel hubs. )
I found that the plastics on the car out last those bearings very easily. I probably had too many hard impacts, I usually had to replace my wheel hub bearings once per month.
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Old 03-20-2016, 06:00 PM
  #635  
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Originally Posted by yifuqiao View Post
The car is so damn tough...
I don't think you need to store anything particularly.
If you have to, I would get a pair of c hubs and front arms and be done with it. I only destroyed a c hub during my 2 month owner ship.

Honestly, I think don't think you need anything if you are a cleaner driver.
But coming from Trf 419, storing chubs had become my habit, lol.
Also, get a few spare bearings( forgot the size, but they were probably something like 5x10x2.5, the one used on wheel hubs. )
I found that the plastics on the car out last those bearings very easily. I probably had too many hard impacts, I usually had to replace my wheel hub bearings once per month.
Thanks - I'm coming from a 419 too, but had very few breakages. Just got a big meet in a few weeks and didn't want to get caught short.

The DCJ assembly worries me a little - if those grub screws come loose
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Old 03-20-2016, 06:51 PM
  #636  
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which is why you loctite them and align the flat spots as instructed. most common parts ive seen done in on t4s was steering blocks and chubs obv. but if you get the hard bumper it will limit the number of those quite a lot.
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Old 03-20-2016, 07:16 PM
  #637  
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I too came out of TRF419...
*DCJ - thread lock it appropriately - no problems at all
*Plastics - they are much more durable than TRF419 - even supposed "graphite" ones are more subjectable breakages - they are still better than Tamiya's
*Pulley Belt Drive Train - much smoother than TRF419
*Diff - finally one that doesn't give me problems!

What needed to Change?
*Bearings - one gripe is that I need to change bearings every other month or so... need to find one that is more durable! (any recommendations?)
*Belts - I found that if you don't clean the pulley+Diff casing often, your belts will wear out faster (Driving @ Dirty Asphalt track) There are always some bits and pieces of junk and dirty that made belt wear out faster
*Shock Damper bladder - they last about half a year or so... then they get fat and hard to cover over the shock cylinder nicely. (Actually, I never did change my TRF419 bladders)
*Diff rubber ring gasket - I know I know people don't even install this but I do... and you have to change it every time you make changes to your diff.
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Old 03-20-2016, 11:31 PM
  #638  
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Originally Posted by otaku521 View Post
I too came out of TRF419...
*DCJ - thread lock it appropriately - no problems at all
*Plastics - they are much more durable than TRF419 - even supposed "graphite" ones are more subjectable breakages - they are still better than Tamiya's
*Pulley Belt Drive Train - much smoother than TRF419
*Diff - finally one that doesn't give me problems!

What needed to Change?
*Bearings - one gripe is that I need to change bearings every other month or so... need to find one that is more durable! (any recommendations?)
*Belts - I found that if you don't clean the pulley+Diff casing often, your belts will wear out faster (Driving @ Dirty Asphalt track) There are always some bits and pieces of junk and dirty that made belt wear out faster
*Shock Damper bladder - they last about half a year or so... then they get fat and hard to cover over the shock cylinder nicely. (Actually, I never did change my TRF419 bladders)
*Diff rubber ring gasket - I know I know people don't even install this but I do... and you have to change it every time you make changes to your diff.
There's no need to run the rubber gasket, the paper one alone is sufficient.
Avid bearings are all I run and I can highly recommend them along with the rest of their products.
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Old 03-21-2016, 02:27 AM
  #639  
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Originally Posted by otaku521 View Post
...
*Shock Damper bladder - they last about half a year or so... then they get fat and hard to cover over the shock cylinder nicely. (Actually, I never did change my TRF419 bladders)
we've generally found that some oils other than Hudy/Xray can make the rubber swell

*Diff rubber ring gasket - I know I know people don't even install this but I do... and you have to change it every time you make changes to your diff.
As mentioned, don't bother with it, no-one does, just use the paper gasket.
....
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Old 03-21-2016, 09:16 AM
  #640  
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
....
hrmm I am using Team Associate Silicon oil.. never had problems with it on my old TT01-> Sakura xi -> TRF419... maybe it's just xray bladders just react differently... I will get a bottle of Hudy 500 CST and try it out...
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Old 03-21-2016, 09:32 AM
  #641  
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Ive never changed the bladders in my nt1 w/t3 shocks in 5 years with associated oil.
Also yes. The oring in the dif is dumb. Paper gasket does a much better job just change it whenever you refill the dif. Which prob wont be that often.
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Old 03-21-2016, 10:32 PM
  #642  
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Where is Art Scrimo.....? Hey Art, how 'bout a new episode of your 'How-to' XRay videos for YouTube!? I've enjoyed (and learned) something from each of them.

Unfortunately, I haven't thought of any suggestions/topics for ya, though.....bwahahhahaha.
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Old 03-21-2016, 10:51 PM
  #643  
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Ok go easy on me I've been doing off road for the past 5-6 years and been trying to get into the off road reedy race for the past 2 years and failed thru the lottery system so I thought just for shits and giggles to sign up for reedy on road race and I got in so it came as a shock...I've never raced on road and I'm trying to decide on a car...I'm torn between this car and a BD7 2016...obviously answers are gonna be a little bit biased due to where I'm posting this...but any imput would be helpful, as in driving characteristics and hop ups needed...thanks
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Old 03-21-2016, 11:28 PM
  #644  
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Originally Posted by bLamey470 View Post
Ok go easy on me I've been doing off road for the past 5-6 years and been trying to get into the off road reedy race for the past 2 years and failed thru the lottery system so I thought just for shits and giggles to sign up for reedy on road race and I got in so it came as a shock...I've never raced on road and I'm trying to decide on a car...I'm torn between this car and a BD7 2016...obviously answers are gonna be a little bit biased due to where I'm posting this...but any imput would be helpful, as in driving characteristics and hop ups needed...thanks
First of all, let me state that i love my xray t4 to death, and it is miles miles ahead compared to my trf419, but if I were doing it again.
I would probably have gone for bd7, why?
Not because bd7 drives better, it is because of the parts support.
You could get hop ups for bd7 on Amain all day everyday , but I can't say the same for xray t4.
I had to order a flex alum chassis from rcmart 3 weeks ago, and I am still waiting for my package, hoping it didnt get lost in ISC Los Angeles. The solid alum(x ray released two alum chassis for 16) is basically only available in Europe.

If I had a bd7, I could have got those parts sooner, and mostly likely cheaper.

Last edited by yifuqiao; 03-22-2016 at 08:18 AM.
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Old 03-21-2016, 11:41 PM
  #645  
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Originally Posted by bLamey470 View Post
Ok go easy on me I've been doing off road for the past 5-6 years and been trying to get into the off road reedy race for the past 2 years and failed thru the lottery system so I thought just for shits and giggles to sign up for reedy on road race and I got in so it came as a shock...I've never raced on road and I'm trying to decide on a car...I'm torn between this car and a BD7 2016...obviously answers are gonna be a little bit biased due to where I'm posting this...but any input would be helpful, as in driving characteristics and hop ups needed...thanks
For my experiences versus my race track roomie who has a BD7 2016 (we 5 ppl rented a room together in the race track here in HK, 3 xrays T4, 1 Yokomo BD7, 1 Destiny(which we sees as a cross-breed of a lot of things))

So far my roomie has brought a lot more hop up items than we xray guys did... besides the normal springs, and oils (which we all shared)... (this includes all the different suspension mounts and servo mounts)... basically it all comes to this from him:

Plastics - need to swap out more often...

rear belt - last 3-5 times we played together (it just kept snapping in half for him)

but basically both are very capable cars and can be very very fast... but just handles in different ways...

IMHO (for me) - xray T4 is more easily driven, yokomo DB7 2016 is more agile and sensitive... (maybe just me)
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