Xray T4 2016
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#436
Tech Adept

Droop 6 and 4
Height 5 rear and 5.5 front
Roll centre. Rear back is out , rear front is centre, the front back is -5 in and the front front is -5 in
Height 5 rear and 5.5 front
Roll centre. Rear back is out , rear front is centre, the front back is -5 in and the front front is -5 in
#437
Tech Regular

Try to measure droop instead of downstop. First, as a starting base, set your downstop (to set left and right side even). After that set your ride height and from this point you can measure droop.
#438
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)

This will make the car far more stable both on and off power. You didn't specify where you needed more grip, but these changes would help both.
#439
Tech Adept
iTrader: (11)

There could be too much weight transfer to the front of the car on power with a 4.0mm rear downstop setting, thus causing the rear fishtailing. Decreasing the rear droop could help.
I would start by slowly increasing your rear downstop value. Remember to re-check your ride height after your downstop changes and keep it the same (5.0mm).
Keeping the same ride height relative to a higher downstop setting will decrease your droop in the rear.
Last edited by B. Santos; 02-04-2016 at 10:47 AM. Reason: grammar, clarifications
#440
Tech Adept

Alright great I'll try these out
#441

What batteries do you guys use that balance the car well? I would prefer to use SMC batteries so what mah? Also should I get a inboard connection or does it matter?
#442

Started building my t4 16 today.
I thought tamiya instruction was good.
But the X-ray manual was 100x better.
The diff feels so smooth.
1 question for you guys..
My hudy bearing oil is gonna be delivered tomorrow.
But I can't wait to assemble the whole thing.
is bearing oil absolutely a must?
in my trf419, they never mentioned anything about bearing oil.
Is bearing oil more for protection(prevent grit, sand from getting inside ) or for lubrication ? or both?
I thought tamiya instruction was good.
But the X-ray manual was 100x better.
The diff feels so smooth.
1 question for you guys..
My hudy bearing oil is gonna be delivered tomorrow.
But I can't wait to assemble the whole thing.
is bearing oil absolutely a must?
in my trf419, they never mentioned anything about bearing oil.
Is bearing oil more for protection(prevent grit, sand from getting inside ) or for lubrication ? or both?
#443
Tech Adept

If you're measuring the height under the suspension arms that is your downstop setting.
There could be too much weight transfer to the front of the car on power with a 4.0mm rear downstop setting, thus causing the rear fishtailing. Decreasing the rear droop could help.
I would start by slowly increasing your rear downstop value. Remember to re-check your ride height after your downstop changes and keep it the same (5.0mm).
Keeping the same ride height relative to a higher downstop setting will decrease your droop in the rear.
There could be too much weight transfer to the front of the car on power with a 4.0mm rear downstop setting, thus causing the rear fishtailing. Decreasing the rear droop could help.
I would start by slowly increasing your rear downstop value. Remember to re-check your ride height after your downstop changes and keep it the same (5.0mm).
Keeping the same ride height relative to a higher downstop setting will decrease your droop in the rear.
#444
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)

Look up measure droop over ride height, there are some YouTube videos on the subject. Sometimes seen as "droop orh".
#445
Tech Adept
iTrader: (11)

Started building my t4 16 today.
I thought tamiya instruction was good.
But the X-ray manual was 100x better.
The diff feels so smooth.
1 question for you guys..
My hudy bearing oil is gonna be delivered tomorrow.
But I can't wait to assemble the whole thing.
is bearing oil absolutely a must?
in my trf419, they never mentioned anything about bearing oil.
Is bearing oil more for protection(prevent grit, sand from getting inside ) or for lubrication ? or both?
I thought tamiya instruction was good.
But the X-ray manual was 100x better.
The diff feels so smooth.
1 question for you guys..
My hudy bearing oil is gonna be delivered tomorrow.
But I can't wait to assemble the whole thing.
is bearing oil absolutely a must?
in my trf419, they never mentioned anything about bearing oil.
Is bearing oil more for protection(prevent grit, sand from getting inside ) or for lubrication ? or both?
I think Xray mention to oil them in the manual as a reminder to maintain them regularly.
Also, bearing oil is more for lubrication of the bearing itself. It will do little to prevent grit from getting inside. A proper bearing grease is a better protectant, at the cost of performance. The shields do a fine job though.
#446

The bearings are already degreased and oiled from the factory. Their website description says this as well.
I think Xray mention to oil them in the manual as a reminder to maintain them regularly.
Also, bearing oil is more for lubrication of the bearing itself. It will do little to prevent grit from getting inside. A proper bearing grease is a better protectant, at the cost of performance. The shields do a fine job though.
I think Xray mention to oil them in the manual as a reminder to maintain them regularly.
Also, bearing oil is more for lubrication of the bearing itself. It will do little to prevent grit from getting inside. A proper bearing grease is a better protectant, at the cost of performance. The shields do a fine job though.
I am a little disappointed that the bulk head blocks and a arm shaft holder blocks aren't keyed into the chassis. I found that how i screw the bolt definitely easily affects how tight the a arm moves.
The problem I am having with this design is, the settings of the car can be easily changed upon collision, which could also create more slop , I imagine.
Does anyone have any problem with this on real track test? Do you guys have any trick to prevent it from tweaking?
I guess I will just have to examine the car every time after it gets a decent hit.
#447
Tech Regular

Thanks for your information!
I am a little disappointed that the bulk head blocks and a arm shaft holder blocks aren't keyed into the chassis. I found that how i screw the bolt definitely easily affects how tight the a arm moves.
The problem I am having with this design is, the settings of the car can be easily changed upon collision, which could also create more slop , I imagine.
Does anyone have any problem with this on real track test? Do you guys have any trick to prevent it from tweaking?
I guess I will just have to examine the car every time after it gets a decent hit.
I am a little disappointed that the bulk head blocks and a arm shaft holder blocks aren't keyed into the chassis. I found that how i screw the bolt definitely easily affects how tight the a arm moves.
The problem I am having with this design is, the settings of the car can be easily changed upon collision, which could also create more slop , I imagine.
Does anyone have any problem with this on real track test? Do you guys have any trick to prevent it from tweaking?
I guess I will just have to examine the car every time after it gets a decent hit.
After installing left and right bulkheads, I measure if the distance/gap between front part and back part of the bulkheads are equal. Use a caliper for this job.
#448

Thanks for your information!
I am a little disappointed that the bulk head blocks and a arm shaft holder blocks aren't keyed into the chassis. I found that how i screw the bolt definitely easily affects how tight the a arm moves.
The problem I am having with this design is, the settings of the car can be easily changed upon collision, which could also create more slop , I imagine.
Does anyone have any problem with this on real track test? Do you guys have any trick to prevent it from tweaking?
I guess I will just have to examine the car every time after it gets a decent hit.
I am a little disappointed that the bulk head blocks and a arm shaft holder blocks aren't keyed into the chassis. I found that how i screw the bolt definitely easily affects how tight the a arm moves.
The problem I am having with this design is, the settings of the car can be easily changed upon collision, which could also create more slop , I imagine.
Does anyone have any problem with this on real track test? Do you guys have any trick to prevent it from tweaking?
I guess I will just have to examine the car every time after it gets a decent hit.
#449

Thanks for the replies, guys.
Also, where is the white belt that everyone is using?
I thought it was included in the kit?
Also, where is the white belt that everyone is using?
I thought it was included in the kit?