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Old 09-22-2015, 05:08 PM   #286
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HPI should address that problem IMHO.
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Old 09-22-2015, 07:48 PM   #287
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Default deff intrigued

I reviewed the political aspects of the all new Hpi rs4 sport flux falken
70 + mph water proof
Electric
No hop ups available yet
Hummer I've never been a fan of electronic cars but this one got my attention.
I'm searching for one that's priced write,
I've always been a nitro guy
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Old 09-22-2015, 08:49 PM   #288
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Originally Posted by Scooby007 View Post
I reviewed the political aspects of the all new Hpi rs4 sport flux falken
70 + mph water proof
Electric
No hop ups available yet
Hummer I've never been a fan of electronic cars but this one got my attention.
I'm searching for one that's priced write,
I've always been a nitro guy
Requires optional gearing to go 70+. On the right surface, when it would drive straight I hit 57-58 out the box.
It's got a number of issues. This thread is basically 20 pages of us owners all having similar problems.
Form over function is my general opinion of mine.
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Old 09-23-2015, 07:52 AM   #289
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Default so false advertise

[QUOTE=Billy Kelly;14194390]Requires optional gearing to go 70+. On the right surface, when it would drive straight I hit 57-58 out the box.
Soo then Hpi false advertises this car 70+ mph on box..
Ges It wouldn't hang with there nitro cars before it falls apart...I've always. Been a nitro fuel person have over 10 cars , have always wondered if battery was better I'm sure it's way cheaper to operate and way more club races for electronic cars nitro seams to be dieing out.. few and far races etc , thanks for the 20 + pages of info if I pick one up cheep I'll let you guys know not paying the ridiculous high price for a car that does nothing but breaks etc
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Old 09-23-2015, 11:59 PM   #290
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[QUOTE=Scooby007;14194839]
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Originally Posted by Billy Kelly View Post
Requires optional gearing to go 70+. On the right surface, when it would drive straight I hit 57-58 out the box.
Soo then Hpi false advertises this car 70+ mph on box..
Ges It wouldn't hang with there nitro cars before it falls apart...I've always. Been a nitro fuel person have over 10 cars , have always wondered if battery was better I'm sure it's way cheaper to operate and way more club races for electronic cars nitro seams to be dieing out.. few and far races etc , thanks for the 20 + pages of info if I pick one up cheep I'll let you guys know not paying the ridiculous high price for a car that does nothing but breaks etc
I have a listing on eBay for a cheep one u might be interested in . Much rather continue transaction through PayPal . Will ship it out too you for $189 plus $30 shipping. Fair price . eBay store is jayystore
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Old 09-24-2015, 06:53 AM   #291
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[QUOTE=Scooby007;14194839]
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Originally Posted by Billy Kelly View Post
Requires optional gearing to go 70+. On the right surface, when it would drive straight I hit 57-58 out the box.
Soo then Hpi false advertises this car 70+ mph on box..
Ges It wouldn't hang with there nitro cars before it falls apart...I've always. Been a nitro fuel person have over 10 cars , have always wondered if battery was better I'm sure it's way cheaper to operate and way more club races for electronic cars nitro seams to be dieing out.. few and far races etc , thanks for the 20 + pages of info if I pick one up cheep I'll let you guys know not paying the ridiculous high price for a car that does nothing but breaks etc
If you are looking to try an electric RTR on road, I'd suggest the Associated Apex Touring. It's what I've compared the Sport3 to mostly. Both are shaft driven. 3s capable. And have limited adjustability. Yet with a pinion and tire change, the Apex can run with my TC4. And can hold its own with my XRay or Serpent.
I'm not a racer, never been to a track. But if I setup a course on a good parking lot surface, in stock form the Sport3 would be last.
Hpi had over 2years to come up with the Sport3 since the Apex was released. It doesn't. It might look better. No question the Sport3 is a great looking vehicle. But personally I'm not interested in shelf queens.
I don't think it's false advertising. Just think they copied the Traxxas marketing idea. Put big speed on the box to draw attention.
On road RC is getting smaller and smaller. And I dont think that the Sport3 will help. I really wanted it to be good. With upgrade improving car, not being required to just get it to drive. I've never like the"must have upgrade" part of the hobby. There is no reason that a car should be good out the box. Especially with a company that has built some absolutely great RTR vehicles.
I've owned over 70 vehicles in the past 5 years, yes I have an addiction. This is the first vehicle that has just made me wonder " what were they thinking, did they even test drive the thing".
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Old 09-24-2015, 04:01 PM   #292
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Well my Sport3 Flux came in today off eBay from a private seller. Not a big fan of the HPI Falken Porsche body but it will be okay for a practice body. I love the integrated rear multi piece diffuser in the body...pretty slick as well as the multi piece front end for scale looks and probably rear fender well reinforcement.

Just soldered a Traxxas connector on in place of the deans. Need to fit 2 orings on the front dog bones ASAP. Tons of play! The rears seem okay I may just put one on each side of the rear differential box.

Aside from that out of the box....hex hardware for a RTR from HPI finally! I don't know if I plan on keeping the stock Esc. Does anyone know what rebadged Esc this is? I'd guess it's some Hobbywing?

I'm thinking my extra Sidewinder SV3 would be okay for that Vector 4000kv motor. Or I could fit my Mamba Monster on lol.
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Old 09-24-2015, 04:03 PM   #293
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Here's the body integrated lexan rear diffuser....never seen anything like this before on a body and not the chassis!

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Old 09-24-2015, 04:08 PM   #294
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Hpi used the same body with the diffuser on the Sprint2. O rings will more likely not help. Didn't work for the rest of us. SpecR tamiya cvd axles is what most of us have used.
Good luck with it.
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Old 09-24-2015, 04:20 PM   #295
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Originally Posted by Billy Kelly View Post
Hpi used the same body with the diffuser on the Sprint2. O rings will more likely not help. Didn't work for the rest of us. SpecR tamiya cvd axles is what most of us have used.
Good luck with it.
Yeah I'm still waiting on tqracing to restock! What's the difference between the spec R Tamiya cvds and their sport series cvds?
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Old 09-24-2015, 04:46 PM   #296
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Originally Posted by alexchen86 View Post
Yeah I'm still waiting on tqracing to restock! What's the difference between the spec R Tamiya cvds and their sport series cvds?
Honestly don't know. I followed others suggestion to use the the SpecR axles. I was going to wait on the Hpi upgrades, but that would have been a 6 week wait. If Hpi released them on schedule. Don't know if they've been released or not.
There have been a lot of common issues that us that got the first released models. If you haven't been following this thread, might be good to look through it. Hope you have better experience with it.
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Old 09-24-2015, 04:49 PM   #297
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What's a good ball cup/rod end that'll fit the stock ball stud and use a 4-40 rod? The different ballcup and rod ends I've been using have been rubbing badly..
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Old 09-25-2015, 06:53 AM   #298
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What's a good ball cup/rod end that'll fit the stock ball stud and use a 4-40 rod? The different ballcup and rod ends I've been using have been rubbing badly..
I remember I'd always use RPM rod ends or Dubro rod ends that have a screw that comes in from the top replacing the snap on versions. Sometimes on a high speed basher it's better to have snap ons in case a bad rollover or collision causes additional damage because the links are fixed to your c hubs or towers...up to you though.

HPI cups tend to last quite a while at least in my 1/8 experience running the HPI Apache C1 on 40 series MT bad lands. In the 1/10, I always used HPI cups on all 3 of my Exotek cup racers, my 2 Castle brushless Mini Trophy Trucks, and the 3 Sprint 2 Fluxes I used to own.

The only time I had to resort to a mix of Dubro and rpm ends were on a custom 1/7 full aluminum and titanium esavage brushless.
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Old 09-25-2015, 03:28 PM   #299
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I remember I'd always use RPM rod ends or Dubro rod ends that have a screw that comes in from the top replacing the snap on versions. Sometimes on a high speed basher it's better to have snap ons in case a bad rollover or collision causes additional damage because the links are fixed to your c hubs or towers...up to you though.

HPI cups tend to last quite a while at least in my 1/8 experience running the HPI Apache C1 on 40 series MT bad lands. In the 1/10, I always used HPI cups on all 3 of my Exotek cup racers, my 2 Castle brushless Mini Trophy Trucks, and the 3 Sprint 2 Fluxes I used to own.

The only time I had to resort to a mix of Dubro and rpm ends were on a custom 1/7 full aluminum and titanium esavage brushless.
Problem is, the Sport 3 ball studs are bigger than the Sprint 2(which is roughly the same as the Losi Mini 8ights), and I can't find any of the smaller ball studs that won't back out, so I wanna go back to the stock ball stud..just need to know where to get right size rod end...
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Old 09-25-2015, 08:26 PM   #300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexchen86 View Post
Yeah I'm still waiting on tqracing to restock! What's the difference between the spec R Tamiya cvds and their sport series cvds?
Hi

They're pretty much the same. If you have extra Tamiya CVDs they will fit quite well.

If you look back at the early posts, this was done and it worked.

Regards
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