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1st n00b post & intro. Also, advice needed for buying 2nd hand Tamiya TRF >

1st n00b post & intro. Also, advice needed for buying 2nd hand Tamiya TRF

1st n00b post & intro. Also, advice needed for buying 2nd hand Tamiya TRF

Old 06-21-2015, 03:55 PM
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Old 06-22-2015, 11:14 AM
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Old 06-22-2015, 11:59 AM
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What you're planning to do is called bashing and IMO, I don't think you need a high end kit like TRF. I remember those days when I wanted the same. Buy one of those RTR kit and be done with it and have fun.
I don't mean to discount what you want to do w/ the car but I'm just telling you because 1. You are unlikely to change any set up on your car when you bash. Then you don't need a kit that comes with bunch of set up adjustability 2. You can make cheaper kits also go as fast when you put faster motor/ESC combo only when you bash. 3. Other than the bling factor on TRF, you wouldn't have any big advantage having it over cheaper kits when you bash . Save money for now. If you really like RC to the point you want to race (tho you said you won't), then buy a better kit. I hope you enjoy.
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Old 06-22-2015, 12:27 PM
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Old 06-22-2015, 12:36 PM
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....sold....

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Old 06-22-2015, 01:03 PM
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Old 06-22-2015, 03:59 PM
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Just bear in mind that everything on a TRF (or any high end tourer) is about speed and needs maintenance. The bearings that come with a TRF won't last long on the road for example. There is also very little protection on the driveline for rocks etc.

If you want tamiya, get a TB03/4 with plastic tub and sealed shaft drive. Perfect basher/drifter.
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Old 06-22-2015, 05:01 PM
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Old 06-22-2015, 05:18 PM
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A shaft drive car with sealed diffs might be best for your needs. A Tamiya TB-03, TB-04 or an Associated TC4 are good choices.
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Old 06-22-2015, 05:54 PM
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Old 06-23-2015, 01:05 PM
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Old 06-23-2015, 02:34 PM
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Sounds like you like nice stuff, and TRF certainly qualifies.

If you're looking to buy used, you really should try to hands-on inspect the carbon and aluminum.

Just about all of the plastics back to the 415's are available somewhere and can be replaced pretty easily and affordably. The bulkheads and decks, not so much. At least, not cheap, and what's the point to buying used if you just have to re-kit the expensive parts?

If at all possible, check the aluminum parts on a flat smooth surface to see if they're bent. Check the decks, particularly the main chassis, for delamination. You can't/won't catch everything, but the flat surface check does help, and check the screw holes for ovaling, and also you can sometimes catch delam in the countersink surfaces. Constant loosen-tighten cycles on a race car wear out all screw joints on both the aluminum and carbon sides. Scuffing at the deck edges isn't necessarily a big deal.

If you can't hands-on inspect, you're basically trusting the seller. And even then, a conscientious person can easily have a slightly bent bulkhead on board and not know it.

TRF is quality out of the box, but race cars take a beating, no matter how meticulous the owner.

Don't overpay, be a skinflint negotiator and make the seller squirm. They can reply "As Is/No Warranty", and that's probably fair.
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Old 06-23-2015, 02:42 PM
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If you like the layout of the TA03F, then you should look at Tamiya's XV01. Front motor, belt drive, can be had in a rally version, can be set up for drift, comes in pro model kits, and Tamiya's bodies are always great looking. Plenty to choose from also, to keep in line with your budget.
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Old 06-23-2015, 02:57 PM
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Old 06-23-2015, 07:47 PM
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