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Old 10-20-2005, 12:19 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaejw1
negative,, his car was faster,,, ,, but i will say it was a combination of both..
I know poeople with fast motors and they do bad and ive seen people with ok motors and win ! so it just comes down to how you drive.. Do you polish your bushings? that helps alot with performance in the crapy stock motors
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Old 10-20-2005, 12:31 PM   #17
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yuo could also try eXpress motor sports (txmpress.net) they have outstanding motors and batts. their monsters have so much rip.
for a stock brush/spring combo i say f's on both sides and purple springs. i rollout 3mm less than someone else w/ same car (brand new monster, i saw him buy it), and he cant catch me on strait
(ps i dont polish my bushings, but it would help)
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Old 10-20-2005, 12:53 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roberto Falcon
I know poeople with fast motors and they do bad and ive seen people with ok motors and win ! so it just comes down to how you drive.. Do you polish your bushings? that helps alot with performance in the crapy stock motors

Yeah, try slapping in a 8 turn motor! if you are not an expert you will most likely have slower lap times, i see this situation all the time in 18th scale, most guys are running the hot mamba brushless motors, they cant use the power on the infield, and even on the straight they usually overshoot the turn and crash, you just want decent speed, something you can handle efficiently, and you will do better!
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Old 10-20-2005, 01:03 PM   #19
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well like i said i came in second in both qualifiers so i must be doing something right,, and for it to be only my second race,,,,

i did all the tricks i have seen on the web for tuning a stock motor,,, only thing i havent tried was align brush hood,, but since my p2k2 has those dimples i havent had a serious need,, and also socal doesnt have them when i asked for it..

my fastest lap was in the mid 29 seconds,, which i thought was pretty darn good,,, considering once again i placed second on the starting grid in the a-main


but im still learning
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Old 10-20-2005, 02:08 PM   #20
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Theres your problem. Your running XXX Lemans silver brushes. On stock motors you never EVER run silver brushes. They are to hard of a brush, which means you will have more bounce of the brush, which means more arching. That will decrease your performance alot. Run a Reedy 767. Thats the brush i run all the time. Its the best brush. In my opinion.
The XXX silver brushes are for 19T and mod motors.
EA Motorsports makes great motors. EA Motorsports
By the way. What ESC and batts are you running? The ESC can contribute to the problem.
Hope this helps you out.

Chris
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Old 10-20-2005, 02:17 PM   #21
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Umm....thats hardly the case. The XXX brush works fine in stock motors, especially in high heat situations. In a normal enviroment, the power will be slightly down from a 767 or 4499 (which are both silver compound brushes by the way).....they work fine though for club racing or even big local events or in offroad...or for the guy who wants to run the same pair of brushes for 20 runs.......hence why EA Motorsports, OFFERS stock motors with XXX brushes installed....Eric would not sell a product that did not work....

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Old 10-20-2005, 02:43 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EddieO
Umm....thats hardly the case. The XXX brush works fine in stock motors, especially in high heat situations. In a normal enviroment, the power will be slightly down from a 767 or 4499 (which are both silver compound brushes by the way).....they work fine though for club racing or even big local events or in offroad...or for the guy who wants to run the same pair of brushes for 20 runs.......hence why EA Motorsports, OFFERS stock motors with XXX brushes installed....Eric would not sell a product that did not work....

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Old 10-20-2005, 09:18 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TL_XXX-S_racer
By the way. What ESC and batts are you running? The ESC can contribute to the problem.
Hope this helps you out.

Chris
esc is the novak GTB
and im using unmatched gp3300 for qual and gp3700 for race
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Old 10-20-2005, 09:29 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TL_XXX-S_racer
Theres your problem. Your running XXX Lemans silver brushes. On stock motors you never EVER run silver brushes. They are to hard of a brush, which means you will have more bounce of the brush, which means more arching. That will decrease your performance alot. Run a Reedy 767. Thats the brush i run all the time. Its the best brush. In my opinion.
The XXX silver brushes are for 19T and mod motors.
EA Motorsports makes great motors. EA Motorsports
By the way. What ESC and batts are you running? The ESC can contribute to the problem.
Hope this helps you out.

Chris
Actually Silver is softer than copper. The XXX Brush is VERY soft and is not that hard on the comm. It doesnt make the power or RPM of a 767/Putnam or F brush but has about the same or more torque. It being easy on the comm is because its so soft. It only has silver and graphite/lubricant in it. This is the reason it works better in high heat like EddieO said. It doesnt burn up or fall off at the end of a run when most brushes burn up.

Thanks for the compliments too!!

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Old 10-20-2005, 09:35 PM   #25
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Also there are 3 things I find make the MOST difference in how a stock motor runs.

1st. A good lathe. 90% of motors sent in to me for rebuilds and the customer says they cant get it to run since they rebuilt it is because their lathe doesnt cutt straight. The other 10% are because they have knocked the hoods out of alignment by wrecking or droping the motor.

2nd. Brush hood alignment. If your lathe is cutting straight and smooth then this is more than likely the problem. I dont care how many pair of brushes you put in a motor or what kind. If the hoods are jacked up then its still going to run like a terd on the track.

3rd. Weak magnets. Most magnets are on the weak side from the factory in stock motors. It does vary from batch to batch though.

Hope this helps.

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Old 10-20-2005, 11:56 PM   #26
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I'm not too sure about the polishing of bushings.

If these are indeed Oil-Lite bushings (and I am pretty sure they are) they don't need to be polished. In fact, oil-lite bushings are somewhat porous in nature, and when you polish you are impregnating the bushing with abrasives. Furthermore, the polishing can "close" the porosity of the bushing, which will reduce or eliminate its ability to lubricate the shaft. Oil-lite bushings have oil in them, when they heat up the oil bleeds towards the heat.

Better off just polishing the shafts of your motor, and make sure they are very clean afterwards. And apply one drop of oil to the bushings before you race for the DAY. No need to over oil. It doesn't help.

If you absolutely feel the bushings need some attention (like they are too small) then pick up a .125" dia reamer and carefully ream the bushing out. It only cuts on the very front of the reamer, not on the sides, so you must rotate the reamer as you go through.
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Old 10-21-2005, 12:20 AM   #27
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is there any brush that you recommend for 27T stock motors with stand-up brush hoods...gotta work in high heat situations. Thanks
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Old 10-21-2005, 12:51 AM   #28
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4383 or the Fline....

Later EddieO
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Old 10-21-2005, 03:23 AM   #29
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Thanks Eddie.

I am also looking for a decent all-in-one brush cutting device.
Would the new one from Xipp be a good choice?
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Old 10-21-2005, 06:00 AM   #30
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How many runs should a brush last you? I run Express stock rom this past week. They rip!
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