TB03Racer09

iTrader: (1)

ahh that makes perfect sense now. So one should use the balance pins to make sure the car is balance left to right first. But would you use the scales to remove tweak then balance front to rear or is it the other way around?

daleburr

Detweak, then check front/rear balance. But the balance check only needs to be done when first building the car, since it won't change. Detweaking is something I do regularly.

WildManDriving

iTrader: (30)

I haven't gotten around to doing it myself yet but keep meaning too, getting 4 short turnbuckles and 8 suitable ball cups to make solid shocks.

One day.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Most of the time, after balancing side to side with the pins, the corner weights are pretty close. After using the corner scales once, the car will stay relatively balanced for a long time after that, as long as you don't wreck too hard....

ic-racer

I try to get side-to-side near perfect with extra weight or moving components on the chassis (sum of right vs sum of left). Then I even the cross weights with the the shock spring adjusters (sum of RR and LF vs sum of RF and LR). That is one way (of many) to remove tweak. I record Front-to-rear (um of RF and LF vs sum of RR and LR) because RC Crew Chief uses that info; if it changes it affects the dynamics.

Be mindful that cross weights can be equal (no 'tweak') and /or side to side weight perfectly balanced but the chassis can be tipped to one side (higher on one side than the other). Thus the need for more than one way to measure 'tweak.' So, after being on the 4 corner scales I go back to a flat surface and make sure the chassis is the same height side to side. If not I flatten it out with the adjusters on one side or the other the same number of twists, and back on the 4 corner scales to check the cross weights. etc.

LasagnaCat

iTrader: (161)

Not mine, but there are a few videos by the same Youtube poster regarding this topic...

+ YouTube Video

kongluc

iTrader: (1)

anyone seen the new lrp super shorty...like I've said on a few other forums(that I seem to get kicked off of) im just waiting on the technology to catch up...balance is everything http://www.bigsquidrc.com/lrp-super-...-2600mah-lipo/

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

What a sexy voice

LasagnaCat

iTrader: (161)

So while I do own a set of scales, after the fact I think it would have been money better spent elsewhere. Attached is a picture of the scale display for one of our Xrays... taken after manually setting everything up using balance buttons, a run through a Hudy setup system, and a tweak station. As you can see, while not dead on even anywhere the numbers ARE relatively close. Close enough for me, at least. The scales have helped me out a couple of times though, in a different fashion. While the numbers will vary slightly every time you place the car on the scales, they stay relatively close/similar most of the time. If you get a large fluctuating difference on any one corner (or corners,) it can indicate that something is binding. I had one car that kept not acting right, ended up being a bottom shock mount that was binding slightly... the scales pointed me in the right area of the car to tinker with. I do get the scales out from time to time, but mostly it's if I'm looking at someone elses car or if it's for a chassis that doesn't have balance holes drilled in the bottom or in the shock towers (to use with fishing line.) A few posters have already said as much as far as setting everything up manually, just my two cents.

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

One thing you'll have to take in consideration with measurement discrepancies are the tires. Tires new or old will not be perfect nor weigh the same. And so each time you place the car on the scales the values will differ. That said, if you rotate the tires by half a turn you'll notice varying results of about 5~10 grams.

You can reduce these discrepancies by using setup wheels or just plain old wheels. However, this will not eliminate all the discrepancies but should give you relatively consistent values each time.

In the picture below. I did attained these results using slightly used tires. However, I did take the car off the scales a couple of times and rotated the tires and showed differing values of 5~10 grams.

wwddww34

iTrader: (9)

Guys, thanks for all the help on this topic. I have a much better understanding of balancing my car now. Here's a pic of my scale's final results.

There is still room for some more adjustments.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

and the beauty of it is, if you add - physical, ie lead- weight on what you think is a corner (ie towards one end+edge of your chassis) it adds weight on all 4 wheels

wwddww34

iTrader: (9)

I know. I thought the same thing, you have to balance a car by adding lead weight to corners.

Then I read (and watched YouTube videos) how to properly balance the car by (1) checking the length of my shocks, (2) checking for tweak in the chassis, (3) checking my anti-roll bars for tweak, (4) using setup wheels instead of tires when using scales and (5) adjusting for balance by using only shock collar adjustments instead of adding lead weight to the car. It's worked very well.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

still. the thing is, if the static balance weight is off, you can do everything you want, you will still be off on the scales!

scirocco14

iTrader: (5)

I think the real question that isn't being addressed is this: is 50/50 weight distribution really what you WANT?

So you might be chasing a goal that isn't optimal.

Think about it.

Mark