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Roche Rapide P12 1/12 Competition Car Kit

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Roche Rapide P12 1/12 Competition Car Kit

Old 03-26-2018, 12:39 PM
  #1246  
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Originally Posted by rcfiend
Guys how do the rear axle height adjusters work. What I'm looking for is the direction, up, down, arrow facing in or out. I tried it a few ways and it seems like my axle is higher on one side or the axle doesn't spin freely. By the way this is on my Evo F1, but they use the same adjusters on the 12th scale car.

Thx.
Just make sure the arrow on both are pointing the same direction up or down and facing the same direction left or right. They are eccentric for both length and ride height.
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Old 03-26-2018, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by BKUK
Look at them closely you can run either short or long wheel base. One side is shorter than the other. The unmarked ones will allow you to run tyres smaller and maintain ride height. Both have to be the same height so you have to flip one over depending on wheelbase.
That helps. Does it matter whether the markings (arrow, .50) is on the inside or outside?

Thx.
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Old 03-26-2018, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by rcfiend
That helps. Does it matter whether the markings (arrow, .50) is on the inside or outside?

Thx.
Yes, it matters, and they must face the same direction. If your right side adjuster has the arrow and .50 markings towards the right wheel then your left side adjuster will also need the arrow and .50 markings towards the right wheel. This means when setup correctly the markings will be on the inside on one side and on the outside on the other side. Which side has them on the inside and which side has them on the outside will be dependent on if you are running the long wheelbase or short wheelbase and if you are running them in the lower axle or higher axle position to accommodate for different rear ride heights.
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Old 03-26-2018, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by biz77
Yes, it matters, and they must face the same direction. If your right side adjuster has the arrow and .50 markings towards the right wheel then your left side adjuster will also need the arrow and .50 markings towards the right wheel. This means when setup correctly the markings will be on the inside on one side and on the outside on the other side. Which side has them on the inside and which side has them on the outside will be dependent on if you are running the long wheelbase or short wheelbase and if you are running them in the lower axle or higher axle position to accommodate for different rear ride heights.
Perfect!! Thanks.
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Old 03-31-2018, 08:31 AM
  #1250  
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Hey guys, i need spare parts for this car. I have tried their USA site and every time there is no stock on parts i need. Is there another source in the USA for parts? are there any other manufacturers that have front parts compatible with this car? i would love to race but need parts. GRRRR only 2 races left in the season i would sure like to run it more than 1 time this year.
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Old 03-31-2018, 09:19 AM
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Genesis RC stocks parts. They are located in Marshall MN. Contact Brandon at (507) 828-8697.
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Old 03-31-2018, 04:44 PM
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it's Xenon front end...Tqracing carry's the whole shabang
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Old 03-31-2018, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by MidwestRacer
Hey guys, i need spare parts for this car. I have tried their USA site and every time there is no stock on parts i need. Is there another source in the USA for parts? are there any other manufacturers that have front parts compatible with this car? i would love to race but need parts. GRRRR only 2 races left in the season i would sure like to run it more than 1 time this year.
RocheRC USA stocks the hard front end parts.
Look at-

340045
340055
340056
340057
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Old 04-25-2018, 07:00 PM
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Anyone have a good setup for 13.5? I see EA did pretty good at mile high, care to share a setup?
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Old 04-30-2018, 04:42 PM
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I am going to put a Giant Asterisk on my set up here. There were a few "outside the box" Titanic Deck Chairs that I clung to throughout the event that I would love to have a do over on. That being said, taking 3rd in stock is not too poor of a result. And if I was able to solve a bizarre left turn issue in 13.5, it would have been podium worthy as well. Back to that asterisk, I had good luck at home by placing CRC 45 side springs over the side links and spacing the cross brace up 4mm in the mod car vs Roche whites in the factory location either touching or preloaded. At home... this mod helped my car finish the corner a little better and attack each corner more aggressively. Initially I arrived with 169mm wide fronts, 5* reactive blocks and springs in factory locations. I just couldn't get the cars to really steer enough. I practiced with diff's in both 17.5 and 13.5 until about 2p Thur then swapped to spools. Steering improved along with lap times, but still more was needed. I narrowed up the front track widths and went to 10* reactive and the cars made a nice jump in performance. I tried more camber gain, but it didn't feel like the right change for me with the spool so I went back to all shims on top of the eyelet. The 17.5 car was on spec tires of course and was pleasant to drive. The 13.5 being on open tire, I tried R35 but then shifted over to mag/gre which made the car feel a little more connected to the track. Still looking for more initial steering, I tried stiffer front springs to see if I could get the car to transfer weight a little more instantly. I went from Roche-white to Roche gold. The 17.5 car accepted the golds, while the 13.5 didn't so much. I went back to Asc 18 on the 13.5. In hindsight, I should have done the same in 17.5 and simply doped more front tire. As the event wore on, I swapped out my B/A Lola in 13.5 for a PF AMR P/L at the same time switching to the 10* reactive. It allowed me to drop the nose of the body to pick up a little more "aero steer" too. That move alone shaved 2ths off my laps. EA flat out took me behind the woodshed when it came to 13.5 HP. Clearly, he had that all dialed in. I plagiarized his settings and got a little closer, but there was not enough dollars to toss around to fix my issue, so I just sucked it up. It was nice that Denver did a motor tech. Several didn't pass. At least I could see what amount of motor I was missing is all about. Moving on... I did come into a little issue with the 13.5 car not wanting to turn left consistently. It would either carve in nice or push in, snap loose out...it was a 50/50 deal. The mod car was on the same tires and it didn't do it, so I am left scratching my head. I was running a 3 line center spring in 13.5 low on the mounts vs a 2 line center spring in the mod with 2mm more of elevation. I'll solve that next season....

All said and done, I would have liked the 17.5 car to be a little more aggressive (but I blew out A2 after getting too aggressive). The 13.5 could have steered consistently. The mod car got away from me on main day, I needed to change tires.

Hope some of you can pick up something from my testing results.

Brian
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
2018 MHIC 17.5.pdf (648.0 KB, 146 views)
File Type: pdf
2018 MHIC 13.5.pdf (657.1 KB, 130 views)
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Old 04-30-2018, 04:57 PM
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EA setup
https://drive.google.com/a/rochercus...w?usp=drivesdk
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Old 04-30-2018, 06:35 PM
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Thanks hanulec!
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Old 05-09-2018, 05:06 AM
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Picking one of these up soon to get into 17.5T 1/12. Decent onroad driver but no 1/12 experience.

What should I order spare parts wise without going too overboard?
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Old 05-09-2018, 09:15 AM
  #1259  
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Side links, steering knuckles, lower suspension arms, rear bearings. Also get some spare front springs and kingpin shims.
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Old 05-15-2018, 06:02 PM
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I have yet to break anything other than front steering knuckles and the carbon front bumper. When you pick up a kit definitely get an assortment of kingpin shims and ride height shims (.5, .75, 1.00 should get you there). I always run the lowest rear ride height adjusters on carpet and size the tire accordingly. Having options in the front is needed to adjust the amount of front droop or if you change wheel brands.
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