Sticky solder?
10-07-2005, 08:07 PM
#2
Find a higher watt solder-iron (100W above) and try use soldering paste like Lofett or Goot's one.
10-07-2005, 08:07 PM
#3
Clean off the old solder, clean the tip of your iron, and get some new solder. You might need to scuff the surface ( dremel, sandpaper) which you are trying to solder too. You should only have to keep the iron on whatever your soldering for a few seconds. Hope this helps.
10-07-2005, 10:05 PM
#5
Tech Adept
Assuming that you've done all of the above, are you using rosin core solder? If not, try using a flux on the connector. Do not use an acid based flux.
A 60W iron is sufficient as long as you have a large chisel tip with lots of surface area.
A 60W iron is sufficient as long as you have a large chisel tip with lots of surface area.
10-08-2005, 06:10 AM
#6
if you want a better iron, and are willing to pop 4 it, get the hako 916. adjustable temps, heats up in like 2 seconds, and makes doldering easy. I used this iron aslong with deans solder, and only scuffing the cells, it went together easily. you could try adding more solder if it wont stick
10-08-2005, 11:59 AM
#7
Tech Adept
I found the solder started sticking to my iron when my tip was getting older. It was a cheap iron anyway. If may be as simple as just replacing the tip?
10-08-2005, 12:01 PM
#8
Yeah, I was using a pencil tip, and I knew we had a chisel tip lying around somewhere. I kept bugging my dad about where it was, so we set out to look for it. After about 10 minutes, we found it in the bottom of his electronics stuff. It heats up well, and melts the solder twice as quick. I think that did the trick! Thanks guys.
-Josh
-Josh
10-08-2005, 05:54 PM
#9
Use FLUX. It is a must if you want your packs to stay together after any kind of impact. I very rarely ever have to sand anything when I use flux, the purpose is to clean the surface so solder will adhere. If you have ever tried to sweat copper, then you know the importance of flux. I have some Nokorode this is over 30 years old, so a little goes a long ways.
11-02-2005, 02:17 PM
#11
So i guess a 40 watt iron is useless then? Thats what i just picked up from radio shack. Don't laugh i am just getting into electric, I usually run nitro but am sick if having to wait till spring to run again. 
11-02-2005, 02:31 PM
#12
40-50 watts is plenty for rc cars. If you joints are not sticking clean them off or try to strach up the surface with somthing sharp and put what ever it is back with some fresh solder. The hotter the iron the easyer it would be, but for 12g wire 40 should be plenty. You could also cover your stand with some foil to keep the iron hot with less "cooldown" with your doing like batts and stuff.
11-02-2005, 07:11 PM
#14
Thanks guys ill give it a shot.
11-02-2005, 08:58 PM
#15
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by geeunit1014
if you want a better iron, and are willing to pop 4 it, get the hako 916. adjustable temps, heats up in like 2 seconds, and makes doldering easy. I used this iron aslong with deans solder, and only scuffing the cells, it went together easily. you could try adding more solder if it wont stick
Money MOney Money! They are very nice iorns but dang and they $$ about 120.00 or so!
Chris