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Old 10-24-2005, 02:50 PM   #16
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anyone know if this is normal (as normal as blowing up gets...)
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Old 10-24-2005, 03:03 PM   #17
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I just baught one of these speedos off of a guy on this web site and had the same problem . I tryed three different servos and still the same problem, so I called associated and they told me to send it to their warranty dept and they would check it out and see what the problem is so when I get it back Ill re post with the solution...
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Old 10-24-2005, 04:04 PM   #18
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Had the same problem, but with EVERY servo, Hitec, JR, didn't matter... had a PT hooked up to it, and even without the motor running you could flick the steering side to side and see the PT light blink, and the motor jitter. I tried to race with it and make no sudden servo moves, and it ran okay, but my PT skipped every other lap..

Fixed it with a 1000uF capacitor (tiny little thing) soldered right along the lead connector, and I've had no glitches at all.. it's just the current being drawn by the PT, Receiver and Servo is too much for the ESC to supply, and even worse when you hit the throttle, as it's the one supplying all the power. For KO Servos I'd try a larger one, like the 4700 mentioned above.

Sad, really, for a "Competition" ESC.. I've run an LRP runner and F1 Pro with no problems, and even my old Atom hasn't seen a glitch like that. [email protected] is the way most new ESCs are going, and you'll never have a problem with those. Maybe the QC3 will address this.

Sometimes a bad soldering job when repairing broken lead wires can result in that problem too. In the meantime, I've just chopped off 2-lead receiver connectors from my old 4-AA holders and resoldered capacitors onto them.
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Old 10-26-2005, 02:45 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AE Racer
This is off of the topic of the thread, but I didnt want to start a new one. My QC2 blew because the positive wire broke off where it connects to the esc, and it just went full throttle and started smoking. Im not sure if it should have blown under these circumstances. The wire falling off was my fault, but it seems strange to me that the esc is just waiting to blow and there is just one external solder joint preventing it. I have it set up so that the positive wire goes from the esc to the motor, and that wire is spliced and the wire that goes to the positive on the battery is soldered onto it.
Does anybody know if it should have blown under these circumstances?

Here is a more detailed explanation of what happened:
I have my qc2 set up so that the positive wire goes directly to the motor and that wire is spliced and a wire that goes to the positive of the battery is soldered to it. The positive wire snapped right by where it connects to the ESC, but the connection between the positive of the battery and the motor remained. The wire broke during a run. At first it felt weird like I was glitching, then it ran off on its own and got stuck up against a pipe. The car was going full throttle when I got to it and the ESC was smoking, although it did not immediately go full throttle, it went to the pie in more or a crawl. I had to disconnect the battery to stop it. It's fried and what appered to be melted silicon leaked out from the top of the ESC. Im not sure if this should have caused the ESC to blow. It seems strange to me that the ESC is just waiting to blow, and there is only one external solder joint preventing it. I also know that some touring guys solder the positive from the ESC and the positive from the motor to the battery separately. If they ever forget to turn off their esc and they solder the wire to the motor first the ESC will blow?
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Old 10-26-2005, 06:29 PM   #20
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My Q2 just blew up today for no reason it seems. I soldered it up correctly and in the same sequence I always do it, and the bastard just started smoking like crazy. So it looks like I have a good excuse to buy a new speedo now
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Old 10-26-2005, 06:51 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AE Racer
Does anybody know if it should have blown under these circumstances?

Here is a more detailed explanation of what happened:
I have my qc2 set up so that the positive wire goes directly to the motor and that wire is spliced and a wire that goes to the positive of the battery is soldered to it. The positive wire snapped right by where it connects to the ESC, but the connection between the positive of the battery and the motor remained. The wire broke during a run. At first it felt weird like I was glitching, then it ran off on its own and got stuck up against a pipe. The car was going full throttle when I got to it and the ESC was smoking, although it did not immediately go full throttle, it went to the pie in more or a crawl. I had to disconnect the battery to stop it. It's fried and what appered to be melted silicon leaked out from the top of the ESC. Im not sure if this should have caused the ESC to blow. It seems strange to me that the ESC is just waiting to blow, and there is only one external solder joint preventing it. I also know that some touring guys solder the positive from the ESC and the positive from the motor to the battery separately. If they ever forget to turn off their esc and they solder the wire to the motor first the ESC will blow?
As soon as the Pos wire to the ESC unsoldered, you basically lost all electronic control and the motor was basically just running off the battery. Your motor should have fried, but I assume the pack was run down enough that it didn't. With no power going to the ESC, all of its protection circuits were off. With the negative from the motor and battery still attached, I'm surprised it didn't burst into flames!
(I'm no expert, so I could be wrong! )
You shouldn't be too surprised. Small mistakes do worse in this hobby. That is why ESC's usually have the wires pre-soldered. If they don''t (like the VFS-1) they have a huge warning on them that basically says, "if you screw up the soldering, don't come crying to us!"
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Old 10-26-2005, 07:27 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamPink91
I always had similar problems with my Quantum 2 and the steering sucking up a lot power when turned quickly, and I think a lot of the problem is the lower BEC voltage of the Quantum 2. So, I installed a 4700 uf capacitor to my receiver to help smooth out the power jult and ever since it has been perfect.

hi

i already got a power cap for the esc.

so i get another one and plug it in the AUX channel of the receiver??

thanks
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Old 10-26-2005, 07:29 PM   #23
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Yea, I don't have one on my speed controller. I only have one in the AUX slot on the reciever
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Old 10-26-2005, 07:33 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamPink91
Yea, I don't have one on my speed controller. I only have one in the AUX slot on the reciever

i just read your one now blew up... i better not do it
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Old 10-26-2005, 07:38 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doomah
i just read your one now blew up... i better not do it
Hahaha yeah. I've been running it like this though for quite some time with flawless results, along with a few other guys on the forum.
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Old 10-26-2005, 07:52 PM   #26
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i know i blew up a esc one by putting the servo in the "batt" slot in the receiver

p.s anyone know what the blue wire is on the esc? i bought mine second hand and it is only 1cm long, whereas i seen others are like 10 cm long
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Old 10-26-2005, 07:58 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobydo
As soon as the Pos wire to the ESC unsoldered, you basically lost all electronic control and the motor was basically just running off the battery. Your motor should have fried, but I assume the pack was run down enough that it didn't. With no power going to the ESC, all of its protection circuits were off. With the negative from the motor and battery still attached, I'm surprised it didn't burst into flames!
(I'm no expert, so I could be wrong! )
You shouldn't be too surprised. Small mistakes do worse in this hobby. That is why ESC's usually have the wires pre-soldered. If they don''t (like the VFS-1) they have a huge warning on them that basically says, "if you screw up the soldering, don't come crying to us!"
Thanks no one seems to want to answer that question. Actually it wasnt the soldering job the wire was at too tight an angle so the strands were breaking and enough of them broke that I guess it snapped almost all the way then came apart. The worst part was that I was going to put on a fresh wire but I put it off because I didnt want to miss my race, and I thought that wire didnt carry any current anyway, so it didnt matter if it was like half frayed. I even thought about doing it before the practice run when it blew, but decided Id do it while I was waiting for my next battery to charge. Wow do I have bad luck! I got to it very quickly, and I use deans so I was able to unplug it, so thats probably why it didnt burst into flames. It may have also been that the wire didnt fully snap until I got to the car, so the ESC was getting a tiny bit of power and slowly starting to blow up.
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Old 10-26-2005, 08:03 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doomah
i know i blew up a esc one by putting the servo in the "batt" slot in the receiver

p.s anyone know what the blue wire is on the esc? i bought mine second hand and it is only 1cm long, whereas i seen others are like 10 cm long
It's a wire for FET servos that run on 7.2 volts. Most servos like this are made by KO. If you dont have one of these, just ignore it. Its also a good idea to put a piece of shrink wrap over the end to prevent it from shorting with anything.
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Old 10-26-2005, 09:15 PM   #29
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Heh... shorting out any wire can happen at any time... drove my Mini around a new track a bit, took a few scrapes on the boards, etc.. took it to the pit, and noticed the ESC connector to the receiver had some bare wires (the esc and receiver mounted on the side of the chassis, the wires often got beaten up..)

Just went to bend the lead one way to take a closer look, and a tiny strand from the pos broke loose and touched the neg bare wire, and PoP! Goes the ESC.. forgot to turn the thing off first.. duh..
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Old 10-26-2005, 09:55 PM   #30
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i just purchased a brand new LRP QC2....should i even bother opening it and just go return it for a novak gtx.....im running an RS310 reciever with a hitec mini servo in my 12th and planning on purchasing a Personal Transponder.....should i just go return it and go for the GTX????????

thanks

Mike
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