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Old 10-06-2005, 04:26 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Lagace
Things to check:
-GEAR MESH? IF way to tight and in a RTR its totally possible that it came to tight out of the box or you messed with it to make it to tight. This will eat run time and overheat a motor. Should be some backlash between the pinion and spur gear

-Drifting usually means slow speeds but lots of full throttle. You will heat up a motor that way.

-The 19T motor in included in the TC3 is a POS. Thats a given. Most RTR included motors are POS. So what i would suggest is going to a 27turn stock motor. 9times out of 10 these tuned stockers will smoke most 19t and 15t rtr motors. and do so at much lower temps. Breaking PVC loose for drifting wont take to much power

-run time with 3600s and a 23T as your friends run can be quite long. 45minutes? Probably not but 10 minutes plus would not be unreal

-motor rebuilding. For the backyard basher/drifter your not gonna need the upkeep we racers do.. but because your likely outdoors the chances of pulling in dirt and crap into your motors is higher (we normally run on carpet or very clean preped parking lots or tracks). Even a low milage motor can turn to SH$% in no time if you fly around dirty lots. A good practice for a basher would be to get a comm stick and some motor cleaner to do a flush out and light cleaning of the comm and brush faces after a day of running. Always re-lube the bearings or bushings after. You should not install new brushes ever without getting the com cut. In most cases you will eat up the new brushes very fast and damage the comm even more. Cut then brush only.

-GEARING i notice many drifters neglect to take that into consideration. I saw a drift car at my LHS ready for motor rebuild the other day. The pinion was the largest one i had ever seen!!! No wonder the thing needed service. Try to run the smallest pinion you can and gear up till you getting no more usable speed. Large pinions will overheat a motor and takeaway low end grunt needed to break loose the car..

hope this helps (ps i hate drifting )
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Old 10-06-2005, 04:54 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Lagace
Things to check:
-GEAR MESH? IF way to tight and in a RTR its totally possible that it came to tight out of the box or you messed with it to make it to tight. This will eat run time and overheat a motor. Should be some backlash between the pinion and spur gear

-Drifting usually means slow speeds but lots of full throttle. You will heat up a motor that way.

-run time with 3600s and a 23T as your friends run can be quite long. 45minutes? Probably not but 10 minutes plus would not be unreal


hope this helps (ps i hate drifting )
no man, drifting is mostly going to full throttle, then guiding ur turn with the amount of throttle.
That's why I get 10-15 mins on a 1500mAh.
actually, when ur drifting, ur less in full throttle than in grip-racing!
and my gear mesh was all right, no resistance and the little paper trick came out just as it should.
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Old 10-06-2005, 08:31 PM   #18
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Getting 10-15 min of run time it sound as if there is no drag or binding, from what i have read so far it sounds like a lack of cooling! try running the car without the body on, the same way you normally do, if it doesn't overheat then that is your problem other than that it's a really good question.
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Old 10-06-2005, 09:13 PM   #19
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i truely think the motor is crap. My LHS has had many customers come back to upgrade there AE RTR motors for overheating. Some after just a few packs. From the TC3,TC4 and B4 RTR kits.
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Old 10-06-2005, 09:27 PM   #20
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well, i do want to change my motor, just i didn t go for a better 1 if i get overheat which might dammage a more expensive 1. first i want to solve a problem b4 i get to create (maybe) more.
So if i decide to change, what would be a good choice vor drifting (usually they say 23-27T), but what ar the differneces in modified stock or pro-stock?
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Old 10-06-2005, 09:37 PM   #21
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well if you remove your motor and verify that all the bearings are free spining, diffs are rotating freely and car rolls a fair distance when pushed and motor is out of the car. chances are the car is just fine. Like i said before the motors that come with you RTR are low end low quality motors.

My suggestion is to get a ROAR legal stock motor 27turn fixed 24degree timing motor. They get the most R&D because they are raced the most. A stock motor like the P2K2,Monster HP and others will be plenty fast and last a long time.

The motor u have is called a machine wound modified motor. But modified should not be confused with better in this case.


TYPES of motors
Sealed silver can motors 540
ROAR STOCK(27t fixed timing)
Tuned ROAR STOCK(same as above but tweeked)
Modified machine wound(what u have some are great like the speedgems sereis from trinity and some are not such as the one in you car)
Modified hand wound(hand build from hand selected parts the best of the best)
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Old 10-06-2005, 09:39 PM   #22
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ps if your tempted to go with modified motors make sure u check the specs of your ESC. Many are limited to just stock motors or maybe a 19turn limit.

Wich reminds me the best bang for the buck in motors is a good 19T motor. Our club runs the trinity chameleon 1and2 as our club motor. Fast as hell easy on esc's and low maint.
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Old 10-06-2005, 09:40 PM   #23
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Get a 19turn spec motor, (reedy quad mag, trinity chameleon 2, epic 19turn outlaw, they have pretty much the most torque you can get, plus very efficient, not real high rpm, so it will last longer, but yes find out what is going on with the overheating of the motor you have, did you try the cooling idea that i gave you?
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Old 10-06-2005, 10:08 PM   #24
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If you think you will severly over heat a stock motor as compared to your 19T, this is really unlikely. The effeciency that these motors have in comparison to yours is enough to bring down the temp quite a bit. Not to mention, it is a higher turn, so that brings down the temp even more.
-Josh
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Old 10-07-2005, 08:50 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josh69162
If you think you will severly over heat a stock motor as compared to your 19T, this is really unlikely. The effeciency that these motors have in comparison to yours is enough to bring down the temp quite a bit.
So, if i change my motor by a 19T stock, it'll be cooler because more efficient, but will the runtime also increase, or is its power consumption the same?

Quote:
Originally Posted by josh69162
Not to mention, it is a higher turn, so that brings down the temp even more.-Josh
I don't get it, mine is a 19T, how can a 19T stock have a higher turn, wht I can believe is being a better motor (aftermarket) you get more power from the "same" motor (comparing the motor of the box with a stock 19T motor).
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Old 10-07-2005, 11:18 AM   #26
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How about doing this, put on some regular tires not drifters! and run the car the same time (if you can) as you do when you drift it, if it doesn't overheat then it is a cooling problem do to lack of airflow over the motor because of the low speeds in drifting.
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Old 10-07-2005, 12:31 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milen
I don't get it, mine is a 19T, how can a 19T stock have a higher turn, wht I can believe is being a better motor (aftermarket) you get more power from the "same" motor (comparing the motor of the box with a stock 19T motor).
He was talking 27t stock motor.
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Old 10-08-2005, 06:17 AM   #28
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i had the same problem with my novak SS5800.i solved it with a better gear ratio.i know stock/RTR has a gear ratio of 5.5 for drifting youll need 7 something.i put a smaller pinion and **tada** no more overheating.besides,when i drift,im never at full throttle,drifting is all about throttle control,not mashing it.HTH
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Old 10-09-2005, 07:53 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Lagace
-The 19T motor in included in the TC3 is a POS. Thats a given. Most RTR included motors are POS. So what i would suggest is going to a 27turn stock motor. 9times out of 10 these tuned stockers will smoke most 19t and 15t rtr motors. and do so at much lower temps. Breaking PVC loose for drifting wont take to much power
Finally, the man said it. Replace the motor.

Sean
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