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Old 10-03-2005, 02:40 PM   #16
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Well I already do have saddle, and I have a tray.
About the chassis, I have a old Tamiya Evo 3. What shiuld I do to Make the batteries fit> (the gp3700) ?
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Old 10-03-2005, 03:05 PM   #17
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Someone mentioned before, grind away. If you can't get a chassis for that car that's made to fit the larger cells like you can for most cars out there, you'll need to make some modifications yourself to make them fit.
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Old 10-03-2005, 03:34 PM   #18
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Thanks everyone for your help. I will try to file and grind the chassis out so i can fit the batteries
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Old 10-03-2005, 05:18 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
Someone mentioned before, grind away. If you can't get a chassis for that car that's made to fit the larger cells like you can for most cars out there, you'll need to make some modifications yourself to make them fit.
Exactly, that's what I had to do when I bought my FT TC4, before I started building it. I had to use my Dremel rotory tool to grind away enough chassis material in the right places so that the battery slots would accept both GP3700 & GP3300 cells(they are spaced right on the FT TC4 for the 3700's, but not for 3300's, so I had to work on that to get all to fit properly & of course to make sure the chassis won't ever cut into the cells' shrink wrap in a crash, smoothed everything out properly). I know that if you don't already have something like a Dremel it might seem a bit expensive just to use with your R/C stuff(I've seen prices for them anywhere from $35 to $120 depending on how powerful it is & how many features & bits come with it) but I guarantee it's a tool you'll never regret buying, they have uses for EVERYTHING, it's something every man should have in his toolbox....
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Old 10-13-2005, 08:37 AM   #20
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Just to clarify a saddle pack is a split 6 cell (like the TK04). A stick pack is a 6 cell pack with 2 rows of 3 cells end to end. Normal racers use the side pack assembly so you can equalize each cell.

Suprizingly the lowest resistance packs are made "stick style" end to end by direct soldering the cells together, therefore eliminating 4 battery bars. But there are no sedans built to accept stick packs properly.
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Old 10-14-2005, 11:22 AM   #21
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yes i was confused when a post on this thread by someone explain that if you use high quality bar you have less resistance but on a stick the one place you use it is at the bottom of the stick pack, other wise the cells are direct and no bars. But yea unless someone want to put together a stick pack every time after they equiliuze, condition it and make your chassis able to fit a stick pack properly and be able to have low center a gravity..... Yes saddle is easier in that way i guess
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Old 10-14-2005, 01:17 PM   #22
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Actually, unless you have the rig to solder cell to cell, stick packs have more resistance. They use a cheap, sheet metal type of battery bar, assemble three cells like a side by side, and then just fold the cells over end to end. There was a video on making battery packs that showed a rig on assembling the cells directly, end to end. It's actually pretty interesting, but I can't find it. Maybe someone else can.
-Josh
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Old 10-14-2005, 08:33 PM   #23
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at my lhs we make sticks for micros by strait soldering the cells together with only 1 bar at the end. we just heat the solder and shove 'em togheter before it cools. is a pain in the arse to biuld, but low resistance
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Old 10-14-2005, 08:43 PM   #24
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but how do u break apart the cells to troubleshoot them when one of the cells seems shorted ?
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Old 10-14-2005, 10:33 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piyo Piyo
Proper discharge have 2 steps. 1. Discharge to 5.4 V for the pack. 2. Equalize each cells individually. Well, at least it will keep your battery performance. And no way for a stick pack cells to be equalized individually.
there's a way Piyo Piyo..
Never seen this..
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Why saddle and not stick?-stick-pack-discharger.jpg  
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Old 10-15-2005, 12:16 AM   #26
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haha smart, I guess thatgadget solves that
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Old 10-15-2005, 05:51 AM   #27
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To solder end to end battery packs you'll need a hammerhead tip for your soldering iron. I bought mine at www.cheapbatterypacks.com. It also works great for side to side battery packs and it'll last much longer compared to the regular weller chisel tips. And here's a video of how to make end to end stick packs using the hammerhead tip. http://norbique.rchomepage.com/video...g_complete.avi
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Old 10-15-2005, 07:44 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lost
but how do u break apart the cells to troubleshoot them when one of the cells seems shorted ?
with your hands go *snap* and break the solder
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Old 10-15-2005, 09:08 AM   #29
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I don't understand why anyone would want to run stick packs. You have to go through the extra work to get a special iron tip and make special discharge trays. Cars are designed for side by side, they sit lower in the car, there's already ton's of equipment there to maintain them, and they're much easier to build. I did three packs last night in less than 10 minutes.
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Old 10-16-2005, 10:03 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
I don't understand why anyone would want to run stick packs. You have to go through the extra work to get a special iron tip and make special discharge trays. Cars are designed for side by side, they sit lower in the car, there's already ton's of equipment there to maintain them, and they're much easier to build. I did three packs last night in less than 10 minutes.
B/C if you can solder up a stick pack, then you can cheat in a spec class. Rewrap the cells with the spec labels and you could build a stick pack out of matched cells or higher mah cells. Dirty trick, and sadly, some will do anything to win a club race that is supposed to be "spec"
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