Building a new pack
#16
The exact wattage of the gun/iron is not so important, you can get away with anything between 40-100W. However, the tip should be as large as possible.
Think about what you are trying to do... transfer heat from the iron to the cell. If you have a small tip this heat transfer will cool down the iron and thus cool down the joint, with a larger tip there is less of a temp drop. The advantage of a high power iron is that it can replenish this heat loss quicker.
Think about what you are trying to do... transfer heat from the iron to the cell. If you have a small tip this heat transfer will cool down the iron and thus cool down the joint, with a larger tip there is less of a temp drop. The advantage of a high power iron is that it can replenish this heat loss quicker.
#17
if youre not using one already, i suggest a battery jig to solder the cells easier. i use one made by duratrax and its very cheap. but i think the best is the one made by deans. when soldering, i use a 60watt iron and let it heat up for about 5 minutes. then, after i finish soldering one cell, i wait for a couple of minutes before i move on to the next. this works for me because it ensures that the tip is hot enough for the next cell and solder flows readily, without cold solder joints.
#18
Thanks guys. This "pack building" is new to me, but I did have enough smarts to get the Orion battery jig. I guess I'll have to mave a trip to Sears for a decent soldering iron. My LHS has a 60wt from Hobbico, but it has a pencil tip, so I guess the search is on for a flat blade.
Fok, my son's been running electric trucks for a couple of years (he's still only 9 though). Right now he has a RS4 MT that I'm hopping up for him, and I've got an E-MAXX on lay-away for him for Christmas (it's right around the corner). Until now I've been buying him the pre-assembled 2000 stick packs, but I got a decent deal on 3 sets of Panasonic 3000's. So I figured I'd put these together for him. If I can figure these things out, I'll probably just keep building his packs.
Fok, my son's been running electric trucks for a couple of years (he's still only 9 though). Right now he has a RS4 MT that I'm hopping up for him, and I've got an E-MAXX on lay-away for him for Christmas (it's right around the corner). Until now I've been buying him the pre-assembled 2000 stick packs, but I got a decent deal on 3 sets of Panasonic 3000's. So I figured I'd put these together for him. If I can figure these things out, I'll probably just keep building his packs.
#19
TKRS2 - Take a look at the Trinity stick pack kit. We have made several of those with Peak 3000's for guys who have E-maxxes, and they think the packs just rock.
#20
Tech Elite
Mr. C
Can you change the tip on the soldering iron? Many of them can do that so you don't have to buy a whole new iron.
Can you change the tip on the soldering iron? Many of them can do that so you don't have to buy a whole new iron.
#21
I looked today for a wider tip but couldn't find one. Instead, I got a 60wt soldering iron that has changeable tips. It was only $20 at Lowes. I put the first pack together today. The joints aren't "smooth and pretty", but I think it'll work ok (it looks better than some of them I've seen at the track).
I've got plenty of 2000 stick packs I'm going to let him use in the E-maxx for right now. Some will probably need replacing around spring, so I'll probably build some 3000 stick packs then for him to use if the side by side packs won't fit. I've also thought about getting the double 2400 stick packs that Trinity (I think it's Trinity) makes especially for the E-maxx. All those packs should hold him for a while.
Thanks again guys for the advise.
I've got plenty of 2000 stick packs I'm going to let him use in the E-maxx for right now. Some will probably need replacing around spring, so I'll probably build some 3000 stick packs then for him to use if the side by side packs won't fit. I've also thought about getting the double 2400 stick packs that Trinity (I think it's Trinity) makes especially for the E-maxx. All those packs should hold him for a while.
Thanks again guys for the advise.
#22
Tech Rookie
i dont think anyone mentioned this but you also need to keep the soldering iron tip clean. if you allow dried solder bits and other melted stuff to build up on the tip it wont work as well or at all. what i use to clean it is an old sponge that my mom doesnt use anymore. when i want to solder something, i turn my iron on, go to the sink, get the sponge sopping wet, then ring it out a little, so it is pretty damp, once i get back, my iron is heated up enough and i wipe the tip across the sponge to get it clean and then i solder. i do this before i solder anything and my solder joints are always solid. oh i also clean it after i am done
#23
Originally posted by tekrsq
Thanks guys. I'm using 60/40 rosin core solder, but I didn't think to rough up the ends. What's "tinning" the ends?
Thanks guys. I'm using 60/40 rosin core solder, but I didn't think to rough up the ends. What's "tinning" the ends?