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Old 09-22-2005, 07:05 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandomFellow
You do if you want to get the most out of your servo (4.8V vs. 6.0V).
not in stock. the added weight even of a 5 cell 1/3aa is just too much to give up in stock. I run a ko949 with no receiver pack and have never had a problem. My PT give out before the servo slows down enough for me to care.

if you run stock, pull your receiver pack. you will probably pick up .1 to .2 per lap and in 8 min, that is alot
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Old 10-02-2005, 05:14 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesArluck
-Lowered pod plates (allow you to use smaller tires while still maintaining correct ride height, CRC and IRS make good ones that are reasonably priced)
-Lowered front arms (allow you to use smaller front tires while still maintaining correct ride height, IRS sells these)
-IRS rear ride height adjusters (allow you to adjust the rear ride height in .5mm incriments, much finer than the stock AE ones)
Quote: What are these? got any pics or links to these items?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesArluck
THere are so many different ones there.. what should i get?
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Old 10-02-2005, 02:53 PM   #18
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Or maybe,
can someone tell me the pros and cons of the following:

IRS160 Associated Style Pod Plates (pr.) - Blue - lowered 0.090 than stock pod plates

URS1161 1/12th Pod Upgrade - For Associated 12L4 - Blue pod plates
(Seems to be stronger? but maybe heavier and more difficult to remove the motor?)

IRS163 Extended Pod Plates for Associated Style Pan Cars
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Old 10-02-2005, 09:24 PM   #19
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I am also looking into getting a 12 scale car ( got $200 to spend for one )and after reading most of the different forums in here I've come to this conclusion...

1. rc12l4 is the best starting kit, plenty of parts and hop-ups
2. Stay away from the turnbuckle type brace and go with rigid upper pod plate and fiberglass T-bar. Trinity Black widow and the Yokomo do not have the rigid upper plate so I'll pass on them ).
3. Stay away from the hops-up until you have some drivind and racing experience, replacing parts is cheaper this way.
4. Read the &%&*(*^(#@#% manual first before building the car.
5. Get a decent servo...... And servo saver!
6. Use old 6 cell packs that had one of the batteries go meltdown.. Cost saving tip...
7. Don't tell wife you are loking to get a new car....
8. Have package delivered to your workplace of friends house.

Did I miss anything?
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Old 10-03-2005, 01:13 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nova F1 Racer
I am also looking into getting a 12 scale car ( got $200 to spend for one )and after reading most of the different forums in here I've come to this conclusion...

1. rc12l4 is the best starting kit, plenty of parts and hop-ups
2. Stay away from the turnbuckle type brace and go with rigid upper pod plate and fiberglass T-bar. Trinity Black widow and the Yokomo do not have the rigid upper plate so I'll pass on them ).
3. Stay away from the hops-up until you have some drivind and racing experience, replacing parts is cheaper this way.
4. Read the &%&*(*^(#@#% manual first before building the car.
5. Get a decent servo...... And servo saver!
6. Use old 6 cell packs that had one of the batteries go meltdown.. Cost saving tip...
7. Don't tell wife you are loking to get a new car....
8. Have package delivered to your workplace of friends house.

Did I miss anything?
Lol no i think you covered it ...... the last 2 seem very familiar
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Old 10-03-2005, 05:01 AM   #21
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Best kit to get for the $$$, CRC T-Fource. You get the lowered pod plate and a good set of foam, right in the box.
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Old 10-03-2005, 07:33 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mart42
Best kit to get for the $$$, CRC T-Fource. You get the lowered pod plate and a good set of foam, right in the box.
CRC, don't know much about that one... Is there a quick and fast website for info? Parts?

Never mind... I looked at a pic and it has the turnbuckles and not the rigid plate...
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Old 10-03-2005, 08:15 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nova F1 Racer
CRC, don't know much about that one... Is there a quick and fast website for info? Parts?

Never mind... I looked at a pic and it has the turnbuckles and not the rigid plate...
The "T" Force has a T plate i suspect you looked the the carpet knife which is a link car


T-Force

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Old 10-03-2005, 08:21 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by factory racer
Why would i need this BMI conversion????

thanks

Mike
Answer: You don't

The 12L4 is perfectly fine in stock trim. If you want to add ANYTHING usefull, simply get the CRC lowered rear plates and IRS lowered front arms with shims.
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Old 10-03-2005, 10:33 AM   #25
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[QUOTE=Merciless]The "T" Force has a T plate i suspect you looked the the carpet knife which is a link car


T-Force

I do believe you are correct sir...
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Old 10-03-2005, 10:44 AM   #26
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Could someone please explain the link-type VS t-bar suspension to me? I am not looking for a debate as to which one is better but would like to know what some of the advantages or design focus of each is?

Mark
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Old 10-03-2005, 10:56 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mart42
Best kit to get for the $$$, CRC T-Fource. You get the lowered pod plate and a good set of foam, right in the box.
OK looking at the CRC website they have 6 different 12 scale kits listed.
I assume the 6 pack means 6 cells.
That leaves the carpet knife and t-force..... I assume they are both are ROAR type class kits.....
Before I order it what is the biggest difference between the Team RED and standard t-force? And the carpet knife and team carpet knife???? Besides the $$$

THX
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Old 10-03-2005, 11:25 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nova F1 Racer
OK looking at the CRC website they have 6 different 12 scale kits listed.
I assume the 6 pack means 6 cells.
That leaves the carpet knife and t-force..... I assume they are both are ROAR type class kits.....
Before I order it what is the biggest difference between the Team RED and standard t-force? And the carpet knife and team carpet knife???? Besides the $$$

THX
I believe it's just down to lots of shineyness on the Team red's

Personlly i'd go with the t-force after having a 3.2r and never being able to get it to go "right"

I'm running a bmi with side dampers right now, which would be very similar to a t-force without the lower springs at the rear being used

I really like this set-up and it's going well !
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Old 10-03-2005, 01:05 PM   #29
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Default 12th scale necessities

Not sure what environment you'll be running in, but in FL we usually need a table, chair, an EZ-up, some sunscreen, and a fan. If your running indoors, this equipment won't be necessary
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Old 10-03-2005, 02:22 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow15
Or maybe,
can someone tell me the pros and cons of the following:

IRS160 Associated Style Pod Plates (pr.) - Blue - lowered 0.090 than stock pod plates

URS1161 1/12th Pod Upgrade - For Associated 12L4 - Blue pod plates
(Seems to be stronger? but maybe heavier and more difficult to remove the motor?)

IRS163 Extended Pod Plates for Associated Style Pan Cars
anyone?
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