Low budget TC

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  • Quote: A note on the BD7 RS

    I ran one, and out of the box its hopeless (kind of, keep reading) you will snap and break spool out drives like they are going out of fashion, the whole drive train binds as well as a result of the plastics used.

    You will need to buy a spec R or the full fat BD7 spool, replace the plastic wheel hubs, get front and rear sway bars as kit doesnt come with any.

    and little bits like that, after that though with good tuning the car became a 13.5t boosted weapon in the right hands, the grip on offer was unholy, only thing letting it down was the pilot.

    HOWEVER

    If you are running outdoors and you run off into grass and not really hit anything hard then the car out of the box will be actually okay, its when it comes down to competing thats where the car becomes ...workable ..but not a cheap option.
    The front spool is indeed a joke, but don't agree with the binding stuff. Mine built excellently, no binding. You need to build it carefully though. The TRF418 for instance is a lot more tricky with the split suspension blocks that do not locate properly unless you use a straight edge every time you change shims and then it's very fiddly and annoying. Now that is a joke in a 700$+ kit (that's the Tamiya RRP).
  • Second hand car, say a BD7 13 $150-200
    Blinky esc like speed passion Reventon S or R, or hobby wing stock pro. New $80 tops
    Or second hand esc $40-60
    New trackstar motors are $40ish each, second hand good motors from 40-60
    Batteries from $35-50 new
    Body $30

    Buying second hand is usuall the best way to save, just check what your buying. If you're not sure, ask someone at your local track.
    Practice as much as you can, as if you can drive the car without crashing, you'll be faster than someone who crashes a lot.
  • Quote: The front spool is indeed a joke, but don't agree with the binding stuff. Mine built excellently, no binding. You need to build it carefully though. The TRF418 for instance is a lot more tricky with the split suspension blocks that do not locate properly unless you use a straight wedge every time you change shims and then it's very fiddly and annoying. Now that is a joke in a 700$+ kit (that's the Tamiya RRP).
    In regards to the binding.
    The plastic in my kit may have had slight warps or whatever or might of warped as i was tightening screws, its hard to pin down the exact cause and put it to blame.

    So my car ended up getting the full fat bd7 pully etc anyway.
  • Buy used. If you are patient, ebay has random TC's pop up really cheap from time to time.