New to RC any need tips
10-23-2014, 08:18 PM
#31
Tech Regular
Accucel 6 from hobbyking. You'll need at least a 6 amp power supply as well.
Get turnigy nanotech lipos and your motor/esc from there too. The best esc is the X car 120 and the Trackstar gen2 120.
As far as tools go you'll want a good set of hex wrenches for sure. Car stand, solder iron/station, nut drivers and many many more as you go.
Get turnigy nanotech lipos and your motor/esc from there too. The best esc is the X car 120 and the Trackstar gen2 120.
As far as tools go you'll want a good set of hex wrenches for sure. Car stand, solder iron/station, nut drivers and many many more as you go.
10-23-2014, 08:46 PM
#32
Tekin Rs spec 17.5 combo
Futaba s9551
Futaba 3pm
this would be mid-high end equipment. Buy good the first time since electronics last a very long time. When I first started I spent more buying cheap stuff because as I got better I realized the equipment I had was either slowing me down or not enough features in the electronics.
Another option is buying used esc, radio, and servo. Motor I would buy new. This route should save you money.
Also an extra set arms, c hubs, and steering knuckes
Futaba s9551
Futaba 3pm
this would be mid-high end equipment. Buy good the first time since electronics last a very long time. When I first started I spent more buying cheap stuff because as I got better I realized the equipment I had was either slowing me down or not enough features in the electronics.
Another option is buying used esc, radio, and servo. Motor I would buy new. This route should save you money.
Also an extra set arms, c hubs, and steering knuckes
10-24-2014, 02:17 AM
#33
Guys as i have seen on the nearest track that i think i can race for beginners like me. Their specs for motors are 17.5T and 2s LiPo. If i go with Turnigy trackstar 17.5T with hobbywing justock would it be okay? Cause i saw the specs for justock that the recommended motor for 1/10 is 8.5T 2s LiPo. What i read earlier is that its best if i can get a 20% better esc than my motor, i forgot why, but is the diffrence that big if i go onto this route?
10-24-2014, 06:24 AM
#34
Tech Regular
iTrader: (23)
Guys as i have seen on the nearest track that i think i can race for beginners like me. Their specs for motors are 17.5T and 2s LiPo. If i go with Turnigy trackstar 17.5T with hobbywing justock would it be okay? Cause i saw the specs for justock that the recommended motor for 1/10 is 8.5T 2s LiPo. What i read earlier is that its best if i can get a 20% better esc than my motor, i forgot why, but is the diffrence that big if i go onto this route?
If you will be running 17.5T blinky, justock will be fine. The blinky bit is important - if the class is 17.5 boosted then others will drive right past you
10-24-2014, 06:45 AM
#35
Tech Regular
If your racing blinky 17.5 make sure you get a 30mm fan to place behind the motor. The yea racing turbo fan is okay for $10 but if you can afford the $30 superior hobbies f5 get that.
You'll love that Trackstar motor. Just as fast for a beginner not chasing 1/1000 of a second and 1/3 the price of other motors. Gear around 3.8 fdr and crank the timing up to around 45°.
Another important tool you'll need is a temp gun to make sure your keeping the motor and esc in the right range.
You'll love that Trackstar motor. Just as fast for a beginner not chasing 1/1000 of a second and 1/3 the price of other motors. Gear around 3.8 fdr and crank the timing up to around 45°.
Another important tool you'll need is a temp gun to make sure your keeping the motor and esc in the right range.
10-24-2014, 07:42 AM
#36
As far as the tool kit. In addition to the Hex Drivers, Nut Drivers, needle nose pliers, and a couple of small screw drivers, you'll need a ride height gage and something to set the camber and toe in. The Gold standard of set up tools is Hudy, but bring plenty of gold. You can easily invest more in the set up station than the basic car kit. There are certainly more affordable options to get started. Xacto knifes, Dremal tools, a bit of sandpaper, scissors, and a good flat surface such as a glass pane or maybe just a piece of MDF to get started are good things to have on hand.
10-24-2014, 08:03 AM
#37
Tools- this is subjective and you will get many opinions. If you can swing the $$$ for all Hudy, well you are going to be a happy man. But don't think you have to have Hudy.... I have a mix of tools (some nice, some cheap) and to be honest, this is one area where you can save a few bucks and be ok. I have some cheap Turnigy hex wrenches that are 10 years old and still do the job. I've been slowly buying nicer stuff as I go ( I like to have duplicates- a set for home and a set for the pit box) but the cheap tools I have are still enough for the job. Dynamite makes some entry-level tools that will work for not a lot of money.
Set-up station- My advise, if on a budget, is to look for the older Hudy (clear plastic / acrylic... not sure about the material) station. If you look around you should be able to get a used one for around 40-60 bucks. It's not too sexy looking but it works. I've tried some cheap SU stations with mixed success. Now I'm back to Hudy because it is just the most accurate there is. It's pretty much non-debatable. I got the machined set now but like I say the older / clear Hudy station is a good choice.
Set-up station- My advise, if on a budget, is to look for the older Hudy (clear plastic / acrylic... not sure about the material) station. If you look around you should be able to get a used one for around 40-60 bucks. It's not too sexy looking but it works. I've tried some cheap SU stations with mixed success. Now I'm back to Hudy because it is just the most accurate there is. It's pretty much non-debatable. I got the machined set now but like I say the older / clear Hudy station is a good choice.
10-24-2014, 10:52 AM
#38
Thanks to everyone for all the helping tips and for OP for making this thread (hey, I'm also in Socal! Where are you planning on racing?) since I am in the same boat as OP and have the same questions.
Last edited by GSRrR; 10-25-2014 at 10:17 PM.
10-24-2014, 06:50 PM
#39
I think you're referring to where it says " 1/10 on-road>=8.5T" - just means that you need to run motors with more than 8.5T. Below 8.5T is modified and usually is boosted so wouldn't be run with justock esc.
If you will be running 17.5T blinky, justock will be fine. The blinky bit is important - if the class is 17.5 boosted then others will drive right past you
If you will be running 17.5T blinky, justock will be fine. The blinky bit is important - if the class is 17.5 boosted then others will drive right past you
10-24-2014, 09:02 PM
#40
I am going to try to give you the best advice...
Go to the track that u r planning on practicing and racing. Bring a pen and paper... Ask about the classes. As someone said do they have a stock class or boosted class... This will determine what esc u will purchase....this class is typically 17.5. Watch them run and see if u will like that speed... As a beginner u will break less parts with the slightly slower classes, but do what u want. The Justock esc is a great esc for the money... I had one... Falconsekido.com sells them and will double the warranty. They might even sell a combo for about 90. I am not sure about the hobbywing motors. I like the hobbyking track star motors... I used it with the justock esc... If u are racing boosted then u will need a different esc..... Before u build your car u must get two hex drivers. I believe u will need a 2.0 and 2.5 mm...please check te manual... I do not own a sakura......buy two quality hex tools...Mip or Hudy is good. Do not use the tools with te kit. U will strip the screws. Go to hobbypartz.com and order the 6.0 amp ac/dc charger. It's about 50. Futaba or airtronics transmitter.....u can always get help. I buy SMC batteries. Cheap and very very good. U could get away with one at first, but two would be better..... U need to ask at the track what milliamperes u need......too many and yor car will be heavier...too little and u won't finish races.... Ask as to what tires u will need..... U will learn so much by going to the track on a race day...go early.....or practice day... Good luck.
Go to the track that u r planning on practicing and racing. Bring a pen and paper... Ask about the classes. As someone said do they have a stock class or boosted class... This will determine what esc u will purchase....this class is typically 17.5. Watch them run and see if u will like that speed... As a beginner u will break less parts with the slightly slower classes, but do what u want. The Justock esc is a great esc for the money... I had one... Falconsekido.com sells them and will double the warranty. They might even sell a combo for about 90. I am not sure about the hobbywing motors. I like the hobbyking track star motors... I used it with the justock esc... If u are racing boosted then u will need a different esc..... Before u build your car u must get two hex drivers. I believe u will need a 2.0 and 2.5 mm...please check te manual... I do not own a sakura......buy two quality hex tools...Mip or Hudy is good. Do not use the tools with te kit. U will strip the screws. Go to hobbypartz.com and order the 6.0 amp ac/dc charger. It's about 50. Futaba or airtronics transmitter.....u can always get help. I buy SMC batteries. Cheap and very very good. U could get away with one at first, but two would be better..... U need to ask at the track what milliamperes u need......too many and yor car will be heavier...too little and u won't finish races.... Ask as to what tires u will need..... U will learn so much by going to the track on a race day...go early.....or practice day... Good luck.
10-24-2014, 11:25 PM
#41
Team C has their "Oktoberfest" special going on this month... sport version Touring Car for $99.00 !!! And pre-built. Link: http://www.hobbyrecreationproducts.c...-p/htctr10.htm shows 9 left....
That is a real affordable and simple way in.
The HW Justock esc is bang-on. Cheap as could be and very punchy for spec racing. I've yet to see one go up in smoke. I would recommend going to the Race VTA site http://www.racevta.com/ They have great service
If you run 17.5 ( the most popular class next to VTA) then a Trackstar 17.5 will work fine for you. Cheap, good motors.
That is a real affordable and simple way in.
The HW Justock esc is bang-on. Cheap as could be and very punchy for spec racing. I've yet to see one go up in smoke. I would recommend going to the Race VTA site http://www.racevta.com/ They have great service
If you run 17.5 ( the most popular class next to VTA) then a Trackstar 17.5 will work fine for you. Cheap, good motors.
10-25-2014, 11:49 AM
#42
$12. I got mine on sale at our local HF for $10.
10-25-2014, 11:51 AM
#43
Here is a budget servo that compares with units costing 3x as much. https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...dProduct=30679
10-25-2014, 12:37 PM
#44
Tech Regular
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...g_0_06Sec.html
This is the "budget" servo I use. You have to use a glitch buster with this though.
This is the "budget" servo I use. You have to use a glitch buster with this though.
10-25-2014, 12:39 PM
#45
Tech Regular
http://www.harborfreight.com/non-con...ter-93983.html
$12. I got mine on sale at our local HF for $10.
$12. I got mine on sale at our local HF for $10.
This is the same as the duratrax and that one is just as accurate as my more expensive temp gun.
Last edited by 2uzferunner03; 10-25-2014 at 01:54 PM.
