politpot

iTrader: (3)

Hi everyone, i have this car for almost a month now and initial impression is awesome!!! Build quality is good and the car geometry is very impressive aswell.. Break all my previous lap times in all the track ive been by almost a second and i even won a race.. coming from xray t4 15 is a huge improvement in all aspects.. My only problem is the C hub which easily breaks.. I tell you ive done some very hard crashed on my t4 and even broke the chassis but never the C hub.. Now im waiting for the new option soft C hub.. I hate to admit that all of us in our group who own this car had broken this part.. I live in italy so the parts are scarce so i cant afford to buy C's every time i go out racing.. I hope HB-HPIRACING can do something on this matter.. I run team orion electronics, from battery to motor to esc and its awesome.. Anyone here who tried fitting the C from yokomo to pro5?

John Wallace2

Must be new because when I checked for that C hub a few days before I posted, I got not such part.

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

Just run the tcxx hubs until the white line ones are available. I've crash tested both and they are fine

cplus

iTrader: (11)

dizzy1

iTrader: (29)

Tcxx hubs are little stronger, changes geometry though. From what Hiro said, it actually makes the steering more linear and smoother, that's why you will see many setups using them. Never tried it myself as no issues with stock C hubs.

John Wallace2

??? how does the C hub affect geometry - just asking?

Advil

iTrader: (19)

My guess would be scrub radius is different.

daleburr

Scrub-radius is the distance from the kingpin to the wheel centre-line, so the c-hub can't change that. Scrub radius is determined by the wheel hex and steering-arm layout.

It can change the roll-centre and track-width though.

Hi-LowBlow

iTrader: (1)

Yes, once you put the tcxx c-hubs on your pro5, the front geometry will be different quit a bit.

Tcxx c-hub has king-pin location a bit inner (0.5mm) than the pro5's and also the axle height will be different with tcxx's. So let's say you run 9.0mm droop setup (at the center of outer hinge pin) in front with pro5 c-hub, 8.5mm with tcxx c-hub will be the same setup.

Here is a tip for the tcxx c-hub conversion.

1: Deduct 0.5mm from your current droop setup which with the pro5 hubs.

2: add 0.5mm on front hex wheel hub. (If you run 4.5mm hex with pro5 hubs, it will be the same scrub setup with 5.0mm hex)

You will need some shims to kill the play on the outer hinge pin when you try to fit the tcxx c-hubs. We normally put a 0.2mm shim on each side (front and back of c-hub).

The softer pro5 c-hubs should be available at towerhobbies pretty soon. Sorry for all the trouble for the parts availability.

Thanks

John Wallace2

I guess I had better check my spare C hubs and see if they are all the same. I've been running after market aluminum hubs so I just put my spare TCXX C hubs in my with spare TC hubs.

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

I like the pro5 hubs because you can get the DCJ out through them

ShaunMac

Are the bevel gears and alloy outdrives from the TCXX transferable to the new 40T Pro5 gear diff?

Will the TCXX diffs and spools drop right in the Pro-5? I didn't know if the bulkheads were spaced differently on the new car.

Thanks

scoyle

Hello, really silly question but I have to ask...

The droop settings are to the pins on the kit setup. This is on 10mm blocks I assume and then measure from ground to pin?

And second quick question... I am going to be running on carpet for my first outing with the car. Will kit setup (at the back of the manual, not the build) be ok with Yok Blue springs all round for a starting point?

Chrisgt2

iTrader: (12)

I measure my droop over ride height, 1.5mm front and 3mm rear is a good starting point.

The kit setup will be ok to start out and get a feel for any changes you need to make. However I prefer less rear toe for stock.

scoyle

Thanks, I have the 2.5 rear block to try as well.

And thanks for your droop suggestion, will give it a go.