Anyone running a Killshot 17.5t in blinky TC?
10-25-2014, 05:52 PM
#46
I'm faster at typing....lol....
10-25-2014, 06:26 PM
#47
You mean slowvak lol.... I got the Novak Vulcan 17.5 it seems like it's not up to par with trinity motor. They can handle more gear but you loose the punch. I only run it on 2wd off-road so I might try for on-road this series. But so far I have been running my Killshot 17.5 at 58 degree at 3.6 FDR I can still gear up more but why if the motor runs cool and Yokomo BD7 is a killer on the track lol.
10-25-2014, 06:35 PM
#48
10-25-2014, 07:11 PM
#49
Way off the OP, but, don't worry about the timing sticker on the Vulcan motor. Get your self a in-line amp meter and gear for either punch or top end (track dependent). When you hit the desired "feel" for the track, check the current, and motor temp, keep bumping the timing or the gear until the motor hits around 160* on the left side stator wires. Usually can drop one tooth on the pinion if your a touch too hot. Unless your on a very large track you probably will never hit the maximum timing that the motor is capable of, which quite a bit past the sticker, in most cases. I am usually about .5 lower fdr than the other brands of motors out there.
10-25-2014, 07:59 PM
#50
Way off the OP, but, don't worry about the timing sticker on the Vulcan motor. Get your self a in-line amp meter and gear for either punch or top end (track dependent). When you hit the desired "feel" for the track, check the current, and motor temp, keep bumping the timing or the gear until the motor hits around 160* on the left side stator wires. Usually can drop one tooth on the pinion if your a touch too hot. Unless your on a very large track you probably will never hit the maximum timing that the motor is capable of, which quite a bit past the sticker, in most cases. I am usually about .5 lower fdr than the other brands of motors out there.
10-25-2014, 09:27 PM
#51
I've been reading on other forums that the Novak Vulcan is great at 3.33fdr(30degrees) versus the 3.6fdr of the killshot....You also need to drive differently: momentum run rather than punch and brake...
10-25-2014, 10:16 PM
#52
You can go way past the sticker, BUT, I really recommend using a inline current meter and most definitely watch the motor temps. Just be realistic in what your seeing, obviously something pulling big current will melt down really fast. Timing is very temperamental and the only safe way to really be sure you haven't gone overboard on your timing is by checking the current draw. Know your limits on the current draw and you'll be ok. If you know this you can also compare different motors, and if you have a dyno you can also find comparable fdr to get similar performance.
10-26-2014, 03:22 AM
#53
Tech Fanatic
Actually the subject of this thread is KILL SHOT 17.5 motors - buddy! If you like Novak motors so much please post on their forums. For the record, my Novak motor runs great now, it just took over 3 months to get there - no more about that here, go to the VTA thread if you want to read more.
BTW do you have any idea of how big of an RPM difference there is among motors made by different OEMs or for that matter the same OEM motor with zero timing and max timing? Just because you can use one FDR in a NOVAK motor doesn't mean that same FDR is good for another. Like Johnny Wishbone said, let the amp draw and temps be your guide in selecting timing for your motor [and FDR too] - you may not have the same motor (with the same timing) at the same track as someone else!
BTW do you have any idea of how big of an RPM difference there is among motors made by different OEMs or for that matter the same OEM motor with zero timing and max timing? Just because you can use one FDR in a NOVAK motor doesn't mean that same FDR is good for another. Like Johnny Wishbone said, let the amp draw and temps be your guide in selecting timing for your motor [and FDR too] - you may not have the same motor (with the same timing) at the same track as someone else!
Last edited by John Wallace2; 10-26-2014 at 04:04 AM.
10-26-2014, 07:01 AM
#54
Actually the subject of this thread is KILL SHOT 17.5 motors - buddy! If you like Novak motors so much please post on their forums. For the record, my Novak motor runs great now, it just took over 3 months to get there - no more about that here, go to the VTA thread if you want to read more.
BTW do you have any idea of how big of an RPM difference there is among motors made by different OEMs or for that matter the same OEM motor with zero timing and max timing? Just because you can use one FDR in a NOVAK motor doesn't mean that same FDR is good for another. Like Johnny Wishbone said, let the amp draw and temps be your guide in selecting timing for your motor [and FDR too] - you may not have the same motor (with the same timing) at the same track as someone else!
BTW do you have any idea of how big of an RPM difference there is among motors made by different OEMs or for that matter the same OEM motor with zero timing and max timing? Just because you can use one FDR in a NOVAK motor doesn't mean that same FDR is good for another. Like Johnny Wishbone said, let the amp draw and temps be your guide in selecting timing for your motor [and FDR too] - you may not have the same motor (with the same timing) at the same track as someone else!
10-26-2014, 10:04 AM
#55
Back in the brushed days we had motor break in stands and would hook a battery directly to the motor and twist the end bell to hear the sweet spot. As you increased timing you could hear the rpm increase then when you went to far you'd hear the rpm drop off. Nowadays you need an esc and radio to do it but it still works the same. I found on my USGT and VTA motors that 40- 50 degrees on the end bell is perfect. On my killshots I liked them out of the box so I left them alone. Also on fdr my local track is very twisty and and medium sized so I found gearing to come out of the corners harder and out accelerating everyone really lets the torque killshot shine.
10-27-2014, 07:11 AM
#56
Tech Fanatic
I couldn't race this weekend so I went up to Austin for a few hours to catch the mains of the final Texas Electric On-road Series (TEOS) race this year and do some bench racing with by buddies. So happens SOAP from Huston was running a Kill Shot in 17.5 Blinky and finished 2nd out of 14 in the class. (He also won the USGT class but not with a kill shot). A relatively small track by Texas standards (14.1 second lap times for 17.5 pervious EOS race here in San Antonio they were in the mid 19s). He had 58 degrees timing (end bell) and a 3.97 FDR. He said he ran a D3.5 the day before in qualifying (last race this motor was legal in this series) but the Kill Shot made the car more drivable. BTW his KS had the RPM stator and the 12.5mm Torque rotor, same as mine.
Last edited by John Wallace2; 10-27-2014 at 07:30 AM.
10-27-2014, 11:28 AM
#57
Won 17.5 yesterday with killshot torque stator and rpm rotor and I forgot to charge my battery after the last round of qual...still nice and fast 
7500 battery came off at 7.6v after two runs, crazy
7500 battery came off at 7.6v after two runs, crazy
10-27-2014, 10:48 PM
#58
You can go way past the sticker, BUT, I really recommend using a inline current meter and most definitely watch the motor temps. Just be realistic in what your seeing, obviously something pulling big current will melt down really fast. Timing is very temperamental and the only safe way to really be sure you haven't gone overboard on your timing is by checking the current draw. Know your limits on the current draw and you'll be ok. If you know this you can also compare different motors, and if you have a dyno you can also find comparable fdr to get similar performance.
Ok I did check the current draw with my 17.5 Killshot and its pulling 6.5amps using 2s lipo with no load (free rev).. With my current setup motor runs cool at 3.6FDR. Any thoughts
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