Tamiya TRF419
#4412
New suspension mounts
For testing purpose!
But I think, I will equip my 07MS with them.
For my 419XR I have already all old style blocks, therefore 07MS makes more sense.
I'm courious if the new suspension can convince me...
But I think, I will equip my 07MS with them.
For my 419XR I have already all old style blocks, therefore 07MS makes more sense.
I'm courious if the new suspension can convince me...
#4413
Installed the items on my TA07MS.
For TRF419XR it's the same...
I wanted a more narrow track width in the rear, so I decided for XB-XB-Blocks. I realized a 0.5 degrees rear toe in with N2/N1 inserts. Most of you will went with A-A blocks in the rear...
Inserts are snug and you have eventually readjust your wheelbase with your spacers. I flipped the 1.0mm to the rear and due to tighter tolerances I removed the 0.5mm shim from axles.
Weight is nearly the same. The seperate blocks are the same, the mono block is slightly lighter.
To achieve a 2.5 degrees overall toe in, I decided for the new 2.0 degrees aluminium uprights. This gives me the chance to set 2.0 or 3.0 overall toe in via inserts.
You add approx. 3 grams with this uprights. Tolerances are very good.
On front I will go with 0.5 C-C which I will realize with A-A blocks and N6/N6 inserts. Parts will arrive tomorrow...
Overall - it's not a must have, but a may have hop up. Especially if you already have all old blocks for your racer, it's not necessary to update.
P.S. in picture #5 I realized that the XB-monoblock was mounted wrong. I flipped it (markings to the arms) and added the 0.5mm spacer again.
For TRF419XR it's the same...
I wanted a more narrow track width in the rear, so I decided for XB-XB-Blocks. I realized a 0.5 degrees rear toe in with N2/N1 inserts. Most of you will went with A-A blocks in the rear...
Inserts are snug and you have eventually readjust your wheelbase with your spacers. I flipped the 1.0mm to the rear and due to tighter tolerances I removed the 0.5mm shim from axles.
Weight is nearly the same. The seperate blocks are the same, the mono block is slightly lighter.
To achieve a 2.5 degrees overall toe in, I decided for the new 2.0 degrees aluminium uprights. This gives me the chance to set 2.0 or 3.0 overall toe in via inserts.
You add approx. 3 grams with this uprights. Tolerances are very good.
On front I will go with 0.5 C-C which I will realize with A-A blocks and N6/N6 inserts. Parts will arrive tomorrow...
Overall - it's not a must have, but a may have hop up. Especially if you already have all old blocks for your racer, it's not necessary to update.
P.S. in picture #5 I realized that the XB-monoblock was mounted wrong. I flipped it (markings to the arms) and added the 0.5mm spacer again.
Last edited by Tom1977; 08-06-2019 at 12:40 PM.
#4414
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
For anyone that is considering swapping to the alloy gear diff case from plastic
it’s only a 2.4 gram difference between the alloy and plastic.
No anyone that has run the alloy did you really notice a difference on the leaking?
And if you did was it with the alloy pulls as well?
as with a day of testing I found my alloy with plastic pulley wasn’t really any better maybe I did something wrong?
it’s only a 2.4 gram difference between the alloy and plastic.
No anyone that has run the alloy did you really notice a difference on the leaking?
And if you did was it with the alloy pulls as well?
as with a day of testing I found my alloy with plastic pulley wasn’t really any better maybe I did something wrong?
#4415
For anyone that is considering swapping to the alloy gear diff case from plastic
it’s only a 2.4 gram difference between the alloy and plastic.
No anyone that has run the alloy did you really notice a difference on the leaking?
And if you did was it with the alloy pulls as well?
as with a day of testing I found my alloy with plastic pulley wasn’t really any better maybe I did something wrong?
it’s only a 2.4 gram difference between the alloy and plastic.
No anyone that has run the alloy did you really notice a difference on the leaking?
And if you did was it with the alloy pulls as well?
as with a day of testing I found my alloy with plastic pulley wasn’t really any better maybe I did something wrong?
#4416
For anyone that is considering swapping to the alloy gear diff case from plastic
it’s only a 2.4 gram difference between the alloy and plastic.
No anyone that has run the alloy did you really notice a difference on the leaking?
And if you did was it with the alloy pulls as well?
as with a day of testing I found my alloy with plastic pulley wasn’t really any better maybe I did something wrong?
it’s only a 2.4 gram difference between the alloy and plastic.
No anyone that has run the alloy did you really notice a difference on the leaking?
And if you did was it with the alloy pulls as well?
as with a day of testing I found my alloy with plastic pulley wasn’t really any better maybe I did something wrong?
I think the diameter of the oring recess on the TRF419 diff cases are a bit too large for the Tamiya red orings. Even with the outdrive inserted, the outer edge of the oring just barely touches the wall of the recess. The depth of the recess is also greater than the thickness of the oring, so adding shims won't compress the oring to make a better seal.
IMO the aluminum diff case helps dissipate heat to keep the fluids more consistent and doesn't fix leakage if that's your problem. With the plastic diff cases I always sand the seating surface for the gasket to make sure its flat. The gasket is quite thick so maybe the sanding is not necessary, but I haven't had any leakage in between the case halves.
I ordered some Axon black and clear orings to test if they provide a good seal with less resistance than the xrays. Will report back the results.
#4417
Tamiya #42313 (TRF large shim set)may help with leaking on the out drives. Shims are larger as kit ones and pressure on o-rings is more equally distributed.
#4418
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
In my experience, leakage only happened at the outdrives and not between the case and pulley, whether its plastic or aluminum. Ive tried changing the amount of fluid I fill but they still leaked. Once I changed to xray 972050 orings it stopped the leak. They're a bit larger so has more drag but is leak free.
I think the diameter of the oring recess on the TRF419 diff cases are a bit too large for the Tamiya red orings. Even with the outdrive inserted, the outer edge of the oring just barely touches the wall of the recess. The depth of the recess is also greater than the thickness of the oring, so adding shims won't compress the oring to make a better seal.
IMO the aluminum diff case helps dissipate heat to keep the fluids more consistent and doesn't fix leakage if that's your problem. With the plastic diff cases I always sand the seating surface for the gasket to make sure its flat. The gasket is quite thick so maybe the sanding is not necessary, but I haven't had any leakage in between the case halves.
I ordered some Axon black and clear orings to test if they provide a good seal with less resistance than the xrays. Will report back the results.
I think the diameter of the oring recess on the TRF419 diff cases are a bit too large for the Tamiya red orings. Even with the outdrive inserted, the outer edge of the oring just barely touches the wall of the recess. The depth of the recess is also greater than the thickness of the oring, so adding shims won't compress the oring to make a better seal.
IMO the aluminum diff case helps dissipate heat to keep the fluids more consistent and doesn't fix leakage if that's your problem. With the plastic diff cases I always sand the seating surface for the gasket to make sure its flat. The gasket is quite thick so maybe the sanding is not necessary, but I haven't had any leakage in between the case halves.
I ordered some Axon black and clear orings to test if they provide a good seal with less resistance than the xrays. Will report back the results.
your in Vancouver can I ask your name? or your initials I think they are T.T as we hit a lot of races in bc would be nice to put a face to you I assume you race at rrr or overgeared? IF your initials are T..T I am rob I have met you a few times I think we even did some Tamiya parts swapping at the big chill a few years ago when Ivan was there with you
Last edited by snopro31; 08-08-2019 at 06:27 PM.
#4420
#4424