Tamiya TRF419
#4111
#4113
#4114
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Anyone else see that the 419XR will be on sale in the US before the end of the year? A little disappointed. The MSRP will be 1000 which means that lowest advertised price will be 800. You may be able to get one in the 400's range if RC Mart sells them but in the US they will be far too expensive.
#4115
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
Anyone else see that the 419XR will be on sale in the US before the end of the year? A little disappointed. The MSRP will be 1000 which means that lowest advertised price will be 800. You may be able to get one in the 400's range if RC Mart sells them but in the US they will be far too expensive.
- Jose
#4117
My biggest concern is, that the 419 is the last real TRF, because TA07MS has everything a TRF420 would look alike. Don't know, what innovations Tamiya could further add, to justify a real TRF420.
I think, touring car innovations in the high end area have come to an end now. The big steps are over. All actual chassis concepts you see, are old ones in new packaging. Look at the new Yokomo BD9...not very innovative. X-ray the same.
Vertical top deck (TA07MS) was already a feature of the TA05VDF in 2010. The aluminium center spline of the TB EVO 7 was already a feature of TB03VDS in 2011.
#4118
Tech Master
The MS is still a TRF car, just like that TA05MS etc. It uses the TA07 name as it has that drive train. It’s a serious piece of kit.
Regarding the XR, an Alloy chassis may be available soon. I also wouldn’t worry about no more TRF cars coming.. there will be more and it could actually be quite different.. The designers at Tamiya are on a roll at the moment and I’m looking forward to seeing what’s next.
However at the moment both my XR and TRF103 are able to compete with anything out there, and I’m happy that I’m not feeling pressured into buying a new car every year.
Although I want that MS
Regarding the XR, an Alloy chassis may be available soon. I also wouldn’t worry about no more TRF cars coming.. there will be more and it could actually be quite different.. The designers at Tamiya are on a roll at the moment and I’m looking forward to seeing what’s next.
However at the moment both my XR and TRF103 are able to compete with anything out there, and I’m happy that I’m not feeling pressured into buying a new car every year.
Although I want that MS
#4120
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Picked up the aluminum diff while I was at the local distributor yesterday sending my M17 in for the recall. Wanted to buy all the parts for the diff separately but was told it would be much cheaper to just get an extra diff. The diff was surprisingly light, its definitely heavier than the stock plastic one but not by much.
The 419 diff set came with 2 different set of o-rings, red and black, and they both felt the same when I pinched them. Couldnt really decide which one to use so I went with the red for the contrast, even though I wont be able to see it. The o-ring felt kinda loose in the housing but I hope I would swell up over time and provide a good enough seal to prevent leaks. While filling the diff, I went sorta went by the manual and filled it up to the top of the cross as filling it up to the gears seems a bit too much. I was surprised how much oil took to reach the top of the cross as if the interval volume was bigger than what it actually was. Its been a while since I rebuilt a Tamiya diff so I wasnt sure how much oil they usually take, but compared to others like Xpress or Xray, it seems like I needed more to fill.
After that, the diff went together fine and was happy I could really tighten the screws on the diff to ensure a good seal without the fear of stripping out the screw hole. I gave it a few quick revs in the car and to ensure there werent no leaks, but have to put the car on the track to really see if the seal held up. All in all very pleased with the diff.
The 419 diff set came with 2 different set of o-rings, red and black, and they both felt the same when I pinched them. Couldnt really decide which one to use so I went with the red for the contrast, even though I wont be able to see it. The o-ring felt kinda loose in the housing but I hope I would swell up over time and provide a good enough seal to prevent leaks. While filling the diff, I went sorta went by the manual and filled it up to the top of the cross as filling it up to the gears seems a bit too much. I was surprised how much oil took to reach the top of the cross as if the interval volume was bigger than what it actually was. Its been a while since I rebuilt a Tamiya diff so I wasnt sure how much oil they usually take, but compared to others like Xpress or Xray, it seems like I needed more to fill.
After that, the diff went together fine and was happy I could really tighten the screws on the diff to ensure a good seal without the fear of stripping out the screw hole. I gave it a few quick revs in the car and to ensure there werent no leaks, but have to put the car on the track to really see if the seal held up. All in all very pleased with the diff.
Last edited by disaster999; 10-08-2018 at 09:51 PM.
#4123
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
My diff leaked with .3 shims as well, but the “large” diff shim kit seems to have cured it. These are 15mm in diameter, I believe. I also tried x-ray o-rings and they worked well, but are too thick. Arc o-rings seem to be a perfect fit, but still leaked with the smaller shims. So far, two diffs and two race days, large shim kit and Arc o-rings are leak free with very little to no bind.
- Jose
- Jose
#4124
Tech Addict
Tooth count?
What is the largest-min tooth count some on can use?
#4125
Using the big shims with orange o-ring is a leak free combo in my diffs (full plastic and now full aluminium build)
For all who have leaks at the outdrives, they can use as a quick fix a 0.1mm shim in the marked area. But in some cases this will cause a little bit friction.
Last edited by Tom1977; 10-09-2018 at 08:05 AM.