Tamiya TRF419
#526
#528
There's plenty of workarounds for that problem and it's not rocket surgery.
The rear body posts on TA05 cars are offset a different amount so you can flip them around to give slightly different positions. The hole/stud are a perfect match for the Tamiya cars (I use them on my 418, but they match the older TA05MS, etc.).
Then there's plenty of other cars like Kawada, Xray, Yokomo which again have posts that can be used to achieve a different positioning of the point where the post goes through the body. All of these match the hole/locating pin/stud positions as if all manufacturers agreed on it so they go straight in the holes in the shock bridge across all cars.
I'll leave it up to you to do the required research to find the part numbers.
If you can't be buggered to do any of that, you can just use longer screws and some washers/spacers to offset the 419 posts the desired amount. If you need too big an offset and the stud does not reach the locating hole, you can just drill it and use a second screw instead of the stud.
The rear body posts on TA05 cars are offset a different amount so you can flip them around to give slightly different positions. The hole/stud are a perfect match for the Tamiya cars (I use them on my 418, but they match the older TA05MS, etc.).
Then there's plenty of other cars like Kawada, Xray, Yokomo which again have posts that can be used to achieve a different positioning of the point where the post goes through the body. All of these match the hole/locating pin/stud positions as if all manufacturers agreed on it so they go straight in the holes in the shock bridge across all cars.
I'll leave it up to you to do the required research to find the part numbers.
If you can't be buggered to do any of that, you can just use longer screws and some washers/spacers to offset the 419 posts the desired amount. If you need too big an offset and the stud does not reach the locating hole, you can just drill it and use a second screw instead of the stud.
#530
You can just over ream the body and then tape/goo a piece of polycarbonate square with the correct size hole in place too. I didn't this to an older body and it lasted me ages.
#531
I have managed to build up a stash of body posts from all sorts of cars and now I can drill my bodies once and am sure they fit all the cars I have. The distance between posts at the back is spot on the same on all cars, at the front it's within 1-2mm so inside the tolerance of the holes I ream in the bodies.
#532
Tech Master
iTrader: (55)
Finished the 419 Build blog post yesterday.
In case you have not got the 419 yet, I hope it will help show the details of the car.
http://kentech.blogs.se/
In case you have not got the 419 yet, I hope it will help show the details of the car.
http://kentech.blogs.se/
#533
Tech Apprentice
how much does she weigh fully loaded
To kentech and others who have fully built they cars, how much does she weigh,I know it will be different from person to person, i just want to get a rough ballpark figure thank you.
#534
I think they should have stayed with the while spool/diff gears.
They looked nicer.
They looked nicer.
#535
first run. 419
I was very pleased with first time out. Carpet, 17.5, yokomo pink front, blue rear. 45 associated shock oil. new diff is so smooth and I welcome the "black"
#536
New Spare & Option Parts
#537
radio help please
Hi guys. Please need your input as I want to invest in long term radio.
I am currently using Spektrum 4R.
Benefit to go to M12, Ko Propo V3, Futaba 4px?
Signal strenght, response time etc?
thanks
I am currently using Spektrum 4R.
Benefit to go to M12, Ko Propo V3, Futaba 4px?
Signal strenght, response time etc?
thanks
#539
long story short:
Futaba, sanwa, KO all high end based radios with high quality internals. They will all be faster in response time and feel better. More accurate which we proved multiple times at my club.
With this is I have a Carbon wrapped Futaba 4PX I am willing to let go.
let me know.
#540