Tamiya TRF419
#571
The CF tape on the transponder is from a sheet I have had for years. I belive it's from Kyosho but not sure.
#572
Tech Apprentice
Kentech, you mention adding 75g of ballasts, is this to reach weight limit or to get the perfect balance ?
I ask this because I was wondering, is it worth adding 20-40 g to balance my car perfectly or best to leave it lighter at 51/49% side to side balance ?
Finally, where do you set the Front/rear limit ? How the hell do you achieve 51/49 F-R balance ! I'm closer to the 55/45 region!
Thanks !
I ask this because I was wondering, is it worth adding 20-40 g to balance my car perfectly or best to leave it lighter at 51/49% side to side balance ?
Finally, where do you set the Front/rear limit ? How the hell do you achieve 51/49 F-R balance ! I'm closer to the 55/45 region!
Thanks !
#573
Tech Initiate
Are Yokomo ball studs the same size as Tamiya, i want to use the Yokomo BD7 ball ends. I like how they have a hole for your driver. I've sanded the Tamiya ones down but it looks ghetto.
Also where can I get the Roche red bone blades... everywhere i look they are out of stock
Also where can I get the Roche red bone blades... everywhere i look they are out of stock
Last edited by abiye; 12-26-2014 at 05:45 PM.
#574
Smokem have the blades normally.
#575
Are Yokomo ball studs the same size as Tamiya, i want to use the Yokomo BD7 ball ends. I like how they have a hole for your driver. I've sanded the Tamiya ones down but it looks ghetto.
Also where can I get the Roche red bone blades... everywhere i look they are out of stock
Also where can I get the Roche red bone blades... everywhere i look they are out of stock
I had a ball with the 419, its a notch up from the 418, in terms of quality and performance. The only complain is that Tamiya should include the hex sus balls 42231 in the kit.
#576
Tech Rookie
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Los angeles ca united states dodger stadium
Posts: 10
Im looking for a yokomo yrf2 enyone sale one
#577
Interesting you think it is a step up in quality - what sort of things do you think are better??
#578
Curious about the notch up in quality myself seeing that since the first kit I bought their quality is consistently quite high. The only improvement I have found over the years is in less slop with the newer balljoints/cups, but all of these have been available for a while now albeit not always as part of the kits.
Last edited by niznai; 12-27-2014 at 08:52 AM.
#579
Tech Regular
#580
Hell, you could build a TA06 tourer or CR-01 crawler with pretty much 100% hop up parts.
The 418/419 come pretty much fully loaded though. Compared to xray/yoko that are missing say floating servo mounts, DCJs or carbon parts the tamiya kits are not bad.
The ball nuts are a nice addition though, but $30 to get setup (incl. the hollow screws) is a little much!
#581
Hey,
Two more questions :
1. Do you know what to use for little plastic in K parts called as spare parts?
2. Which holes do you use in front outdrive? There are two positions....short makes so much play left-right...
Thanks
Marton
Two more questions :
1. Do you know what to use for little plastic in K parts called as spare parts?
2. Which holes do you use in front outdrive? There are two positions....short makes so much play left-right...
Thanks
Marton
#583
Kentech, you mention adding 75g of ballasts, is this to reach weight limit or to get the perfect balance ?
I ask this because I was wondering, is it worth adding 20-40 g to balance my car perfectly or best to leave it lighter at 51/49% side to side balance ?
Finally, where do you set the Front/rear limit ? How the hell do you achieve 51/49 F-R balance ! I'm closer to the 55/45 region!
Thanks !
I ask this because I was wondering, is it worth adding 20-40 g to balance my car perfectly or best to leave it lighter at 51/49% side to side balance ?
Finally, where do you set the Front/rear limit ? How the hell do you achieve 51/49 F-R balance ! I'm closer to the 55/45 region!
Thanks !
Nothing special about my setup. You can read all equipment I use on my blog. Should be easy to reach this unless you use a very heavy battery. Remember you can play with the position of the receiver, transponder and ESC as well. Added most (50g) of the weight in the center of the car behind the servo mount and in front of the motor mount at about center line. The rest (25g) in front of the steering posts.
#584
On the front joints, it's shown in the manual which holes to use. They even added a "note direction" text there. You should use the holes that are not in-line with the driveshaft slots. Check the manual again and you will see.
#585
Just to boot, the 419 now comes with ti coated sus pins all around, the blue o-rings for the shocks and the red o-ring for the diff, all these used to be options with the 418. The machining of the kit is the usual Tamiya quality, at least I don't have to screw the motor mount by a certain sequence or secure the upper deck with the chassis on a piece of flat surface to ensure the chassis is not wrap like I had with the other cars. I just could not understand that Tamiya opt not to include the hex sus balls while they included the upgraded sus pins and o rings