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Old 07-11-2018, 04:57 PM
  #3961  
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Originally Posted by Raman View Post


to address the leaking issue these diffs..
oh that...I thought adding fliud after every 3 runs is a rountine
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Old 07-11-2018, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by zxcvb1t View Post
oh that...I thought adding fliud after every 3 runs is a rountine
Yep it was.. the designer of the diff is a descendant of Aurelio Lampredi.. designer of the Fiat 4 cylinder engine in the 60s.. add oil frequently and often lol
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Old 07-11-2018, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by zxcvb1t View Post
what is the point of metal diff housing? no crack, lighter, or else.
It could be the same reasoning that the Mugen MTC1 uses a metal diff case to dissipate the heat from the diff fluid

Originally Posted by Raman View Post


to address the leaking issue these diffs..
I never had a problem with the diff leaking...
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Old 07-11-2018, 06:47 PM
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Never had a leaking diff or shocks on my Tamiyas. Thanks to the xray orings.
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Old 07-11-2018, 07:10 PM
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The mostly leak if you over fill them.

i myself have 4 prebuilt diffs 3k, 5k, 7k and 10k.. all built the same way using X-ray oring. The 10k always leaked... others did not. I changed the green seal, used green slime, associates black grease still leaked. Finally I just replaced the case. Havenít ran it since to test it

the MTC diff is beautiful. Itís a work of machining art. I also like the weight markings on the case and the shocks. Nice touch
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Old 07-11-2018, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Raman View Post
The mostly leak if you over fill them.

i myself have 4 prebuilt diffs 3k, 5k, 7k and 10k.. all built the same way using X-ray oring. The 10k always leaked... others did not. I changed the green seal, used green slime, associates black grease still leaked. Finally I just replaced the case. Havenít ran it since to test it

the MTC diff is beautiful. Itís a work of machining art. I also like the weight markings on the case and the shocks. Nice touch
hi raman, my guess is either i dont lnow how to built a diff or i really dont get along with tamiya diff. On my ta07 the diff is fine when first built. but after oil change from 3k to 5k it starts to leak.... though its a massive improvement compare to ta06's rear diff which wet it self and make the chassis very nasty
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Old 07-12-2018, 12:13 AM
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Where is it leaking from? Out drives or green seal?

How much are you filling it? You donít need to fill it much. Pour enough just to cover 3/4 of the spider gears and thatís it. Pour only in centre part of diff.. not anywhere else
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Old 07-12-2018, 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Raman View Post
Where is it leaking from? Out drives or green seal?

How much are you filling it? You donít need to fill it much. Pour enough just to cover 3/4 of the spider gears and thatís it. Pour only in centre part of diff.. not anywhere else
hi, both are on the out drive.....i think i may overfill the diff as i fill the diff based on manual. on 06 i tried to shim it to get more pressure on the o ring but i ended up ruin the gear mesh and made it undriveable...
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Old 07-12-2018, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by zxcvb1t View Post
hi, both are on the out drive.....i think i may overfill the diff as i fill the diff based on manual. on 06 i tried to shim it to get more pressure on the o ring but i ended up ruin the gear mesh and made it undriveable...
Pick up these o rings

https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod....asp?p_id=4908

and this shim kit

https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod...asp?p_id=13399

you will want to use the 0.2 shim with these o-rings

also make sure you are using the brass bushing in the diff case housing and not a bearing.

this should solve your problem.

if you shim too much .. the shim itself will cone and damage gears.

Last edited by Raman; 07-12-2018 at 08:23 AM.
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Old 07-12-2018, 09:46 AM
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One thing I noticed about using the xray o-rings is that they introduce a lot of extra friction compared to the kit orange rings.
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Old 07-12-2018, 10:01 AM
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They do! They are definitely meatier than other p5 o rings. I pondered using the 0.1 shim.. but never got around to it
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Old 07-12-2018, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Raman View Post
They do! They are definitely meatier than other p5 o rings. I pondered using the 0.1 shim.. but never got around to it
I'm doing a comparison right now where I have one diff built with the kit O-ring and with a .1mm shim under the o-ring and a .2 mm shim in the normal spot under the pin, versus an xray oring with a .1mm shim in the normal position under the pin. I will give results the next time I race. But as of right now the kit oring feels more free than the xray but less free than the kit configuration.
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Old 07-12-2018, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Raman View Post


Pick up these o rings

https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod....asp?p_id=4908

and this shim kit

https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod...asp?p_id=13399

you will want to use the 0.2 shim with these o-rings

also make sure you are using the brass bushing in the diff case housing and not a bearing.

this should solve your problem.

if you shim too much .. the shim itself will cone and damage gears.
thanks you sir
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Old 07-16-2018, 11:56 PM
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Hi guys.

I've ordered a pack of upper arm spacers to play about with setup. Currently running kit 0.5mm all round.

imwanting to give the car more steering without loosing the planted rear end so thought shimming the camber links out might be a good starting point.

what would be a good number to start with? I was thinking of going 1mm front and 0.8 rear as per the rc racer setup, but I don't want to change too much at once.

Last edited by hipwell; 07-17-2018 at 04:55 AM.
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Old 07-17-2018, 09:24 AM
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I don't use the arm spacers. I just use regular shims that I use for the inner camber links.

2.0 in the front and 2.5 in the rear this is on med grip asphalt for me. It all really depends on the surface and traction of each track you race on but that should be a good starting point.

less shims more overall grip more chassis roll
more shims less overall grip less chassis roll
less shims deeper roll less responsive
more shims keeps chassis more level and quicker response
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