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Tamiya TRF419

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Old 04-02-2018, 02:12 AM
  #3796  
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Originally Posted by Tom1977 View Post
Wow! Did a search in Ebaxxx and didn't know that the market is totally outraged with the prices of the XWS-kits.

I know a german shop with NIB 419x for around 480 bucks, but if you're overseas, it might be difficult to get one. It's a original kit from Tamiya Germany with engraved serial number for Tamiya Cup races in Germany. Maybe the last NIB for a reasonable price.

Tamiya - 42301 TRF419X (4WD Wettbewerbs-Chassis) 1/10 - Modellbau-Seidel

You have to ask for shipping overseas. With this backround it might be better to look for other sources. But 800 dollars for a XWS-kit is insane.

TRF420 maybe will come in autumn, if Tamiya hold up their usual cycle. Maybe they see the R-version as new model, then probably 2019.

Should i get a TA07r or Evo 7? or xtray t4 2018? lol
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Old 04-02-2018, 02:22 AM
  #3797  
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Originally Posted by baggiolee View Post
Should i get a TA07r or Evo 7? or xtray t4 2018? lol
07-R is a good bargain with all the included HopUps.
EVO 7 is also excellent but spareparts (chassis specific ones) could be a problem at the moment.

X-ray can't say anything. Never had one.
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Old 04-02-2018, 02:47 AM
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Originally Posted by baggiolee View Post
The sad truth for newcomer like me is, as I just found out from my local Tamiya dealer and RCmart, both TRF419x and 419xws (just around 1 year?) have discontinued. Why Tamiya is making things difficult for new customer to get into its top of the line chassis is beyond me. Maybe TRF420 is coming?
This is Tamiya's business model. They make limited runs of the TRF cars, and because there is a large group of Tamiya enthusiasts out there, the whole run (usually) gets sold very quickly.

If you are interested in racing, the XRAY will be a lot easier to live with. They are very popular and seem to go well with good parts support.

if you are interested in Tamiya, life is not so easy. There are often compromises (TA07 and Evo 7 are both overweight), and parts support can be difficult (especially for the seven-digit spares which often never appear on the market).
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Old 04-02-2018, 03:07 AM
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Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
This is Tamiya's business model. They make limited runs of the TRF cars, and because there is a large group of Tamiya enthusiasts out there, the whole run (usually) gets sold very quickly.

If you are interested in racing, the XRAY will be a lot easier to live with. They are very popular and seem to go well with good parts support.

if you are interested in Tamiya, life is not so easy. There are often compromises (TA07 and Evo 7 are both overweight), and parts support can be difficult (especially for the seven-digit spares which often never appear on the market).
Another choice will be associated tc7.1 . I know aeís touring lineup isnít the best but itís still blue anodized and the parts support in US is just unbeatable. My tc6.2 is assembled from parts bought online, you canít do that with any other brand.

But truth be told I still want to have a Tamiya high end car , the fit and finish is just so hard to let go.
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Old 04-02-2018, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by disaster999 View Post
Shaft is still straight, rolled them on a flat surface and no wobbling, Im using metal suspension balls so they seem to be still in good condition. I ordered a new 1E suspension holder as that was bent from the crash, but the front XA, from visual inspection they seem to be intact. I did a once over on everything and it looked fine.



chassis doesnt appear to be tweaked. Lays flat on the table and did a ruler check and cant see any gap under it or rocking back and forth...its flat.
Just to give an update, I bought a new chassis, new arms, new rear hub, new RF and RR suspension holder and new pins. Made sure the arms are shimmed properly so they drop on their own weight but have almost no play forward and backyard play. Despite spending all that time and money, the left and right rear toe still have 0.5-1 degree difference. Im guessing the next item on my list to by are different RF suspension holders just so the toe are the same left and right...

At least I was finally able to completely overhaul the car so hopefully its good as new now.
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Old 04-02-2018, 09:42 AM
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If you do a search on ebay for Tamiya TRF 419x there is a listing for a BNIB for 410 + 20 shipping. That is a freaking steal. Get it now while you can.
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Old 04-02-2018, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by disaster999 View Post
Just to give an update, I bought a new chassis, new arms, new rear hub, new RF and RR suspension holder and new pins. Made sure the arms are shimmed properly so they drop on their own weight but have almost no play forward and backyard play. Despite spending all that time and money, the left and right rear toe still have 0.5-1 degree difference. Im guessing the next item on my list to by are different RF suspension holders just so the toe are the same left and right...

At least I was finally able to completely overhaul the car so hopefully its good as new now.
Drill holes in the chassis are imperfect. My 419x chassis had this problem. When I upgraded to the new XR chassis, they matched perfectly.
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Old 04-02-2018, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by nubs View Post
Drill holes in the chassis are imperfect. My 419x chassis had this problem. When I upgraded to the new XR chassis, they matched perfectly.
I have the XR
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Old 04-02-2018, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by disaster999 View Post
I have the XR
Yeah but that doesn't change the fact that the reason my toe in was off was because of the chassis.
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Old 04-02-2018, 09:26 PM
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I know there are imperfections, but not expecting it to be this far off. Do you just live with it and trim your steering accordingly or try to get it as perfect as you can?

When trim the steering so that the car runs straight, during hard accelerations, the car the rear end would want to veer to the right while the front is trying to pull the car back to the left.
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Old 04-03-2018, 01:17 AM
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The only time Iíve ever seen a hole be that far out is if the block was wrenched on a hard crash. Imperfections can be there but 0.5 degrees is 0.75mm out which is way wide of the mark. You can check this with some veniers to quell any concerns. Or just fit a solid block on the inner holes. If they are out then it will not fit as the holes will need to be the same distance apart.

If it does fit then your chassis is fine. The issue will be in the fitting of the blocks not being central etc.

I would check the blocks are seated perfectly. Look at the excellent Jilles Groskamp videos and he shows how he fits his suspension blocks, gently tapping them etc.
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Old 04-03-2018, 01:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Qatmix View Post
The only time Iíve ever seen a hole be that far out is if the block was wrenched on a hard crash. Imperfections can be there but 0.5 degrees is 0.75mm out which is way wide of the mark. You can check this with some veniers to quell any concerns. Or just fit a solid block on the inner holes. If they are out then it will not fit as the holes will need to be the same distance apart.

If it does fit then your chassis is fine. The issue will be in the fitting of the blocks not being central etc.

I would check the blocks are seated perfectly. Look at the excellent Jilles Groskamp videos and he shows how he fits his suspension blocks, gently tapping them etc.
Oh and when measuring toe, make sure you use the same side of the set up station ruler (the clear bit at the top) just flip it over as they also can have a slight variance, especially when having to slide them to measure.
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Old 04-03-2018, 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Qatmix View Post
The only time Iíve ever seen a hole be that far out is if the block was wrenched on a hard crash. Imperfections can be there but 0.5 degrees is 0.75mm out which is way wide of the mark. You can check this with some veniers to quell any concerns. Or just fit a solid block on the inner holes. If they are out then it will not fit as the holes will need to be the same distance apart.

If it does fit then your chassis is fine. The issue will be in the fitting of the blocks not being central etc.

I would check the blocks are seated perfectly. Look at the excellent Jilles Groskamp videos and he shows how he fits his suspension blocks, gently tapping them etc.
Originally Posted by Qatmix View Post
Oh and when measuring toe, make sure you use the same side of the set up station ruler (the clear bit at the top) just flip it over as they also can have a slight variance, especially when having to slide them to measure.
Good call on using the same side ruler on the measurements. lemme check that and report back. Having the whole 0.75mm out does seem quite a lot and pretty unlikely
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Old 04-04-2018, 12:07 AM
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After measuring it again using the same side of the ruler to measure both sides, theres still a little discrepancy between left and right, but at this time im pretty much gonna leave it and track test it to see if all the effort and money I spent makes any difference. No point really stressing about it if that solved my problem where the car pushes when turning right, but oversteers turning left.
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Old 04-04-2018, 04:32 AM
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Originally Posted by disaster999 View Post
After measuring it again using the same side of the ruler to measure both sides, theres still a little discrepancy between left and right, but at this time im pretty much gonna leave it and track test it to see if all the effort and money I spent makes any difference. No point really stressing about it if that solved my problem where the car pushes when turning right, but oversteers turning left.
How marginal are we talking? Iím pretty sure the issue will be something else. It sounds more like a tweak issue to me.
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