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Old 08-17-2014, 10:03 AM   #16
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As someone that has a body addiction a habit that I have found hard to kick. I liked the NSX Tamiya HPI it doesn't matter which one they are .2 faster then most bodies I wonder why they are getting hard to get. I do like the my McAllister jag it works well the nose slopes down and gives you great turn in. PF Camaro works good but on a large track with a long straights the aero of the flat front could be a disadvantage. I like the look of the HPI M3 I am trying that body next week. This yesterday I ran a McAllister Riley DP this body is fast I know these bodies are controversial in many corners but they are USGT legal I did here from a couple of racers too.
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GT Body choices....and why?-img_20140816_114113363.jpg   GT Body choices....and why?-img_20140810_131302162.jpg   GT Body choices....and why?-img_20140627_115114885.jpg  
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Old 08-17-2014, 10:26 AM   #17
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I missed the reason why in your original question. What I am looking at does the body have a splinter and how far back an the angle of the windshield. I don't like bodies that the windshield is more then 2" behind the front tires. I also look at how long the rearend is behind the rear tires. The longer the trunk is the further back the rear wing will be. I believe but can't prove it but it doesn't put as much down force on the rear ties as having the wing closer to the rear tires. Same with the front splinter and windshield on the high speed track we have we need insane amount of front down force to produce good lap times to get steering without a lot of steering input that would scrub corner speed.
On small tracks most of the GT bodies should be really close but on a large flowing track the aerodynamics make a difference! IMHO
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Old 08-17-2014, 12:41 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mooby64 View Post
I really like the HPI NSX, but sadly, it has been discontinued. I tried an Eclipse and found it to be a nice neutral handling body.
Are you sure? it is in stock at pretty much all the RC shops I know, plus the HPI site still shows it
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Old 08-17-2014, 12:50 PM   #19
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I might be going off topic slightly here but I'm guessing you guys would know the answer. Do the bodies on 1/10 touring cars really make a noticeable difference in performance? example if I had the exact same car, but ran some laps with the latest protoform race spec body or something like that, and then ran some laps with, say some scale tamiya body, would my lap times drop severely and leave my car uncompetitive? or would they stay pretty much the same?
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Old 08-17-2014, 01:17 PM   #20
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Charlie-
Not a bad question. Bodies do affect performance. Aerodynamics is one of the key ingredients to a good set up. However, aerodynamics can be tricky and results can be quite different than just how a body looks. The one big mistake that is made, is taking a good handling car and changing the body with no chassis adjustments....if it doesn't feel as good, then you think the second body is worse. In fact, the second body may work as well with changes to chassis set up. I always recommend picking a body you like and work with the chassis set up to make it work how you like. Of course there are sometimes a point of no return on bodies and chassis that you may not want to go there. 4WD chassis' for road courses are very complicated, and bodies are only one aspect of the overall set up. Just be willing to make chassis changes when changing a body.

By the way, I think the USGT classes, with nice realism, are way better for our hobby than the classes with distorted bodies that don't resemble actual race cars....as has been the case for many years.

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Old 08-17-2014, 01:45 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlieJT View Post
I might be going off topic slightly here but I'm guessing you guys would know the answer. Do the bodies on 1/10 touring cars really make a noticeable difference in performance? example if I had the exact same car, but ran some laps with the latest protoform race spec body or something like that, and then ran some laps with, say some scale tamiya body, would my lap times drop severely and leave my car uncompetitive? or would they stay pretty much the same?
In bodies they can change just by how far forward or how far back. How much wing how far forward or back the wing is on the body. When you get a body that works I use it as a template for where to punch the body mounts in the new body so they handle the same. If you have a wing that works use it as a pattern too. This stuff is complicated!
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Old 08-17-2014, 01:56 PM   #22
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Are you sure? it is in stock at pretty much all the RC shops I know, plus the HPI site still shows it
A rep from HPI told me that the NSX was discontinued. (expired licensing?)

If you know where I can get some HPI NSX bodies, please PM me. Thanks
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Old 08-17-2014, 04:16 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mooby64 View Post
A rep from HPI told me that the NSX was discontinued. (expired licensing?)

If you know where I can get some HPI NSX bodies, please PM me. Thanks
Well I live in the UK so I'm talking about UK hobby shops, but you can import them if you really want. I can't send links so google these;

Wheelspin Models

Apex models

hpi racing uk (UK distributors)
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Old 08-17-2014, 04:33 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingm View Post
Charlie-
Not a bad question. Bodies do affect performance. Aerodynamics is one of the key ingredients to a good set up. However, aerodynamics can be tricky and results can be quite different than just how a body looks. The one big mistake that is made, is taking a good handling car and changing the body with no chassis adjustments....if it doesn't feel as good, then you think the second body is worse. In fact, the second body may work as well with changes to chassis set up. I always recommend picking a body you like and work with the chassis set up to make it work how you like. Of course there are sometimes a point of no return on bodies and chassis that you may not want to go there. 4WD chassis' for road courses are very complicated, and bodies are only one aspect of the overall set up. Just be willing to make chassis changes when changing a body.

By the way, I think the USGT classes, with nice realism, are way better for our hobby than the classes with distorted bodies that don't resemble actual race cars....as has been the case for many years.

Gary McAllister
[/QUOTE]In bodies they can change just by how far forward or how far back. How much wing how far forward or back the wing is on the body. When you get a body that works I use it as a template for where to punch the body mounts in the new body so they handle the same. If you have a wing that works use it as a pattern too. This stuff is complicated![/QUOTE]



Thanks, so basically set-up the car around the body? And btw I wasn't going to race in GT which is why I said I might be going off topic. I wanted to use an actual touring car body (as in WTCC, BTCC, DTM themed bodies etc). Anyways thanks. I agree, I dislike the distorted bodies too and I think it is bad for the class and I think people that buy into those aero bodies should just get into 1/8 prototypes, or the manufacturers could just make 190/200mm prototype bodies and dish wheels for one class, and then carry on with standard replica bodies (whether it be GT, touring, rally or just road cars) and spoked wheels for another. Everybody wins, but oh well.

Might buy a Schumacher Mi5 since they've dropped in price with the release of the Mi5 evo and pair it with a Tamiya BMW E30 and rubber tyres.
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Old 08-17-2014, 07:17 PM   #25
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You know once a mold has been made, it seems a shame that production of that shell should ever end. Even if demand dropped, smaller production runs could be accommodated. I have been grateful for the number of bodies available for VTA and USGT, but lately I have discovered so many of them discontinued. The lotus, NSX, Saleen, its a shame that a greedy or misunderstanding attorney would cause an agreement to be missed on license renewal and end the production of one of our a favorite shells. That may not be exactly what is happening, but I get the feeling that it is something along those lines.
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Old 08-17-2014, 07:41 PM   #26
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Old 08-18-2014, 11:16 AM   #27
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Thank you Gary for chiming in, it's great to have an industry professional injecting their experience.

Great discussion and some great pics too!!!

Here are 2 bodies I'm currently running:






Actually ran more laps with my 'Spec GT' than I did with the 'Sportsman' 17.5 car, the E46 BMW body was working great.....I'm still getting used to the new chassis under the Mazda GX. Some changes are planned before the next event.....

Keep those pics and comments coming........
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Old 08-18-2014, 05:01 PM   #28
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The Lotus is available from Team Blue Goove on eBay. (As are several that the "maufacturers" no longer sell.)

The Lotus:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOTUS-ELISE-...item23284a0e98
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Old 08-18-2014, 06:44 PM   #29
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By the way, I think the USGT classes, with nice realism, are way better for our hobby than the classes with distorted bodies that don't resemble actual race cars....as has been the case for many years.

Gary McAllister
This is my thought's exactly. I'm an old school 1/12 4 & 6 cell racer from the 70s' and 80's. Back in the days when scale GTP cars were king, and GT cars were for competitive fun. Back when ROAR required a driver figure in the car. Coming back to the hobby, I'm not a very big fan of these Mazda sedans that don't resemble anything on the street. It's very uninspiring, however I suppose I'm coming to terms with it... As it seems I've stocked up on a few of the funny sedans bodies
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Old 08-20-2014, 06:55 PM   #30
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Has anyone tried bodies from R2 Hobbies? They appear to be re-molds of HPI and Tamiya bodies. Anyone???
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