Phil2112

iTrader: (1)

Since your running stock... you'll want the car light. I shaved about 23 grams removing the ATS...Not necessary. Also, check the top deck screw holes. Make sure the screws hole are big enough for the screws to just fall out. I was having a bit of tweak issue when I tightened everything down before i did that. Making the holes just a hair bigger fixed the issue.
Shocks... if you have a drill bit small enough, drill the shock caps. The ARC long spring, Green Front/Blue rear works well for asphalt... Green rear works ok. Like the blue in the back better though.
I'm running a front low friction diff and rear low friction. Front has 1 million and rear is 1,000. Running the diff in the front made the car easier to drive. It works well for me at my track (DRCW).
If you wanna shave a little more weight you can remove the 1mm shim plates on the whole car and just use 1mm spacer shims. You want to be as close to 1380 grams as possible.

OVA

iTrader: (86)

Thank you for your input

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

...

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

Here is the setup I've been promising. I ran this setup at Reedy, just with 5k in the rear for the higher grip and higher speed track. My car was EXCELLENT on Sunday at Camarillo with this exact setup. I was able to TQ and win, running 31 laps each round, the only one to do so all day, and also had FL by 0.5... can was AWESOME. I don't claim to be an on-road setup master, but my car has had speed and is easy to drive. Not a bad place to start and worth a try I believe.

LAGuy

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for posting your setup Frank. Your car looked great. Quick question about the brackets.

Standard Setup is:
#2 FF
#1 FR
Track Width 186mm
Front Low Suspension arm Toe Out 1°

So seems #2.5 is toe out 1.5, track width +.4mm correct?

Not sure what this would be:
#1 RF
#3.5 RR

Rear Toe In +2.5° ?
Rear Track Width +0.75mm or +1.5mm ?

Thanks for the clarification!

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

I am running:
#2.5 FF
#2.0 FR
So 0.5* of arm sweep, and a .8mm wider track width.

#1 RF
#3.5 RR
Rear Toe, +2.5*, and +1.5mm track width.

Per what I can read from the charts.

bornox

iTrader: (32)

do you guys put a hole also on the shock cap when u run on carpet?

Kody

iTrader: (9)

I'd say a decent amount do yes.

JCarr

iTrader: (2)

I started the build on my R10 last night. I dunno if it's just the US kits, but it looks like they have made some changes based on what I have read in here. I got to thinking about it, this is my very first brand new TC build. I built the diff and sanded the backs of internal gears til they were even. The cross pin had no flashing on it so I left it as is, but I did sand the cams. All four cams seemed too high on the outer edges so, I sanded them till they were flat. So far I am really liking this kit and cant wait to get it done and on the track. Thanks for all the help and tips on here and on facebook.

LAGuy

iTrader: (5)

What size hole is common? I only have 1 set and would like to be careful. Without a hole , the shock rebound is pretty n/a. Would a non pro racer noticed the change?

cyclonetog

1mm hole is common, that will give you a "dead" shock, there will be no rebound.
If you don't like it you can block a 1mm hole up with superglue.

Kody

iTrader: (9)

Want to say I use my 1.25 piston drill bit. Around 1mm-1.5mm will be ok.

JCarr

iTrader: (2)

Tonight I started putting the suspension on my chassis. When I first put the bridge on the front and rear of the car everything was nice and free. But, when I tightened everything down the arms no longer moved free at either end of the car. Should I run a reamer through the arms or am I missing something else?

OVA

iTrader: (86)

Kody will be there to help you

Carnage9270

iTrader: (6)

By bridge you mean the arm mount blocks? If so, I would try taking one of the 1mm shims out and replace it with a .5 and a .3mm shim to give it a little bit of play. Or you can go the sanding route and sand the end of the arm down a tad, might be some leftover moulding seam there.