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Old 07-22-2014, 05:53 AM   #16
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Well as you see on some of the other forums team scream has been mentioned. I'll mention it here too a guy tried the same motor you had and switched and went almost a 1 sec. Faster per lap that's not .1 that's 1 sec. This was outdoor on a extremely large track approx 23 sec lap times. Could be battery as well just because it says 100c doesn't mean much. Which esc/battery are you running? There's 100 things I could ask most are maintenance.
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Old 07-22-2014, 12:47 PM   #17
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I wouldn't say there is a lot of difference in the spec 17.5 motors assuming they are legal, which is why at our club there is hardly anyone running the same motor. However in 13.5 boosted this is a different story, only a few motors tend to be used, 13.5 blinky I have no idea about as this is not run at our club at present
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Old 07-22-2014, 01:45 PM   #18
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There are a couple of variables that snuvet75 didn't mention was that the track is about 180x70, URC V. The run 5 min quals and 10 min mains. That adds a lot of variables like gearing for 'big' tracks and differential in equipment heat in the 5 vs. 10 min runs.

Watching the 17.5 class - only a few of the cars actually look 'good' on the track. The better 17.5 cars look like they carry better corner speed, have grip and most of all consistent lines. The top cars have better Top 15/20 averages. The rest of the guys are working to get faster.

17.5 is all about efficiency and frankly with a track that big, never taking your finger off of the trigger. When you gear the 17.5 @ 3.7 how hot is the motor when it comes off at 5min, 10 min? How much timing?

snuvet75 - it might be helpful if you told us what you are running now for cars, motors, esc, gearing and tire setup. There is no magic prescription that will work for everyone. As much having good equipment helps - I have seen guys with messiest wiring, the old escs and worn tires dog guys that had the A-list stuff.

As I mentioned on the URC thread - focus on tires/bodies/shocks first. http://www.rctech.net/forum/13414608-post879.html

For 17.5 - clean the bearings and play with the gearing and timing. Although the straight (175 feet) of it constitutes a good percentage of the running line; the rest of the infield constitutes about 250-300 feet of track you need to cover. If you are worried about just the straight - gear up. I would advise against that unless you bring the timing down. Otherwise go drag racing

I charge all my 13.5 stuff at 8 amps on an ELAN Charger. Oliver uses ICharger. We use different motors, batteries and even bodies and still have similar speeds/times.

**I forgot to add that the issue is not about 'modifying' the motor as much as it is to tuning the motor. Brushless took a lot of the 'blackmagic' out of working on motors. Consider also racing at other tracks. I think URC V will pick up in terms of talent racing there. Till then, challenge yourself a bit and go to other tracks like Camarillo, Tamiya, Heritage & TQ. Running against other guys will give you the best idea of what works and how your racing package compares. Cheapest advice anyone gave me

Good luck!
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Old 07-22-2014, 03:19 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by MDawson View Post
There are a couple of variables that snuvet75 didn't mention was that the track is about 180x70, URC V. The run 5 min quals and 10 min mains. That adds a lot of variables like gearing for 'big' tracks and differential in equipment heat in the 5 vs. 10 min runs.

Watching the 17.5 class - only a few of the cars actually look 'good' on the track. The better 17.5 cars look like they carry better corner speed, have grip and most of all consistent lines. The top cars have better Top 15/20 averages. The rest of the guys are working to get faster.

17.5 is all about efficiency and frankly with a track that big, never taking your finger off of the trigger. When you gear the 17.5 @ 3.7 how hot is the motor when it comes off at 5min, 10 min? How much timing?

snuvet75 - it might be helpful if you told us what you are running now for cars, motors, esc, gearing and tire setup. There is no magic prescription that will work for everyone. As much having good equipment helps - I have seen guys with messiest wiring, the old escs and worn tires dog guys that had the A-list stuff.

As I mentioned on the URC thread - focus on tires/bodies/shocks first. http://www.rctech.net/forum/13414608-post879.html

For 17.5 - clean the bearings and play with the gearing and timing. Although the straight (175 feet) of it constitutes a good percentage of the running line; the rest of the infield constitutes about 250-300 feet of track you need to cover. If you are worried about just the straight - gear up. I would advise against that unless you bring the timing down. Otherwise go drag racing

I charge all my 13.5 stuff at 8 amps on an ELAN Charger. Oliver uses ICharger. We use different motors, batteries and even bodies and still have similar speeds/times.

**I forgot to add that the issue is not about 'modifying' the motor as much as it is to tuning the motor. Brushless took a lot of the 'blackmagic' out of working on motors. Consider also racing at other tracks. I think URC V will pick up in terms of talent racing there. Till then, challenge yourself a bit and go to other tracks like Camarillo, Tamiya, Heritage & TQ. Running against other guys will give you the best idea of what works and how your racing package compares. Cheapest advice anyone gave me

Good luck!
Thanks. Do you see any difference when you charge the battery at 8A than lower amps? I put another post regarding iCharger and I want to hear what you have to say too.
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Old 07-22-2014, 03:23 PM   #20
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Thanks. Do you see any difference when you charge the battery at 8A than lower amps? I put another post regarding iCharger and I want to hear what you have to say too.
You can significantly see the difference between say 8 amps and 10 amps. or 10 amps and 15 amps or higher, this lasts maybe the first 10 laps ( or 1 minute then it goes back to "normal")
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Old 07-22-2014, 03:25 PM   #21
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Well as you see on some of the other forums team scream has been mentioned. I'll mention it here too a guy tried the same motor you had and switched and went almost a 1 sec. Faster per lap that's not .1 that's 1 sec. This was outdoor on a extremely large track approx 23 sec lap times. Could be battery as well just because it says 100c doesn't mean much. Which esc/battery are you running? There's 100 things I could ask most are maintenance.
Yeah I know there are many things I should/can tackle on. ESC is Tekin RS Gen2 and Speed passion reventon pro. battery's Protek 100c 5800mAh. I heard from a friend that he went faster with new LRP ESC than his previous Reventon Pro cuz it generates 180W.
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Old 07-22-2014, 03:37 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
Thanks. Do you see any difference when you charge the battery at 8A than lower amps? I put another post regarding iCharger and I want to hear what you have to say too.
As we are racing outdoors and even in the shade of a tent the pit tables are 85degrees plus. The batteries are already warm. 8amps still produces good power. Charging at 40amps (plenty of threads already on that here) does warm the battery, completes the charge quicker (8mins) and does provide a bit extra punch. It does also tax a battery a bit more & potentially reduces life of the pack.

As someone who has invested my own dollars in testing virtually every charger in the market - you can't go wrong with the Elan/ProSpec/Revelectrix/ICharger/LRP. Just don't short change yourself and then buy cheap packs.
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Old 07-22-2014, 03:42 PM   #23
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As we are racing outdoors and even in the shade of a tent the pit tables are 85degrees plus. The batteries are already warm. 8amps still produces good power. Charging at 40amps (plenty of threads already on that here) does warm the battery, completes the charge quicker (8mins) and does provide a bit extra punch. It does also tax a battery a bit more & potentially reduces life of the pack.

As someone who has invested my own dollars in testing virtually every charger in the market - you can't go wrong with the Elan/ProSpec/Revelectrix/ICharger/LRP. Just don't short change yourself and then buy cheap packs.
I see. I should look into those. I've had a same charger for a few years(my first and the only one other than HITEC multi charger, which I keep at home). Thanks Mark!
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Old 07-22-2014, 04:24 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
Hi,
Well I guess I've waited long enough to ask this question and I know a lot of guys don't want to share information. Anyway, how do you guys modify your motor to make it go faster? I know some at my local track do something that they don't share. We run different brand's cars but at same FDR, similar spec motor and tires, they pass me like I am at half throttle on the straight away.. How is that possible? I understand their driving skill might be better a bit than mine but that speed on the straight away is just unexplainable. (I take care of my cars and they are well set up, no binding. And I just got a new car)
I asked about iCharger on the other post but is it charger, modified motor, cheating on ESC or what?? A few say LRP 180W ESC is a killer. I use Tekin RS Gen 2 and Speed passion Reventon Pro and 100c batteries.
The speed difference is bad enough to discourage a lot of guys at the track. When asked, some say Teflon grease on bearing, thicker motor wire,etc.. but I know all those are bulls*. There is no way in the hell that those make such a dramatic speed difference. Or is there? LOL
Those who don't share obviously wouldn't say anything here but those who are willing to share, advise me. Thanks,
LOL!

There are ways to make your motor and batteries faster.
Don't let these guys fool you.

It comes at a price...

In blinky class you need a very good stator with great numbers.
The lower numbers the better.

Batteries - you can't buy cheap to be fast. Fresh new packs are better.

There is a method of charging to lower the resistance to maximize speed.

Lastly, setup and driving.

I don't care how fast you are you need the right setup to put the power down on the track.
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Old 07-22-2014, 04:27 PM   #25
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http://www.liverc.com/news/special_f...lass_cheaters/


Think before you cheat!
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Old 07-22-2014, 04:43 PM   #26
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In the uk you are banned from an event if you cheat. You are also banned for overcharging batteries, and charging at high amps. Our stock classes don't seem to have massive disparities that you mention, maybe as we only run 17.5 blinky and our 13.5 is boosted.
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Old 07-22-2014, 04:44 PM   #27
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LOL!
If you have to cheat for a bowling trophy.

Just says something about that person.
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Old 07-22-2014, 07:00 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Carranza76 View Post
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Old 07-22-2014, 07:47 PM   #29
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You are correct only if you regularly calibrated your charger. If your charger becomes out of calibration and reads a higher voltage than it should, then you will lose punch and top speed....
Quote:
Originally Posted by thecaptain View Post
You can significantly see the difference between say 8 amps and 10 amps. or 10 amps and 15 amps or higher, this lasts maybe the first 10 laps ( or 1 minute then it goes back to "normal")
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Old 07-22-2014, 11:52 PM   #30
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LOL!

There are ways to make your motor and batteries faster.
Don't let these guys fool you.

It comes at a price...

In blinky class you need a very good stator with great numbers.
The lower numbers the better.

Batteries - you can't buy cheap to be fast. Fresh new packs are better.

There is a method of charging to lower the resistance to maximize speed.

Lastly, setup and driving.

I don't care how fast you are you need the right setup to put the power down on the track.
Method of charging with lower IR, I got that from the other thread. (iCharger)
What do you mean by "the lower numbers are better"? I didn't even know I could change out stator only w/o changing the can. How can you separate the stator from the can anyway? They seemed stuck together last time I disassembled my motor.
I see, depending on the brand of motor, lots of optional rotors but not the stators. What is that people do on the stator then??
Thanks,
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