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Old 07-23-2014, 05:38 PM   #76
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Im still confused it doesnt answer my question of the numbers not adding up. I have gotten brand new packs and tested them at 3.8v per cell at 3ohms per cell on my icharger 206b. Ive heard of others getting into the 1.5 - 2 ohms per cell with the same size pack.
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Old 07-23-2014, 05:51 PM   #77
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Well, most packs after 10 or so runs will decrease in IR. The first two cycles are generally "throw away" cyclings. Meaning the numbers are the highest they will be. Temperature has a good deal to do with the pack's IR. TO a point the warmer a pack is the lower the IR. Maybe like 100 degrees or something is ideal for the pack. Also with most manufacturers the batteries vary slightly and by slightly i mean too much. Some may be around 1.5 and others are 3 depends on the company and who they are buying from. Hope this answers the questions.
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Old 07-23-2014, 08:08 PM   #78
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Well, most packs after 10 or so runs will decrease in IR. The first two cycles are generally "throw away" cyclings. Meaning the numbers are the highest they will be. Temperature has a good deal to do with the pack's IR. TO a point the warmer a pack is the lower the IR. Maybe like 100 degrees or something is ideal for the pack. Also with most manufacturers the batteries vary slightly and by slightly i mean too much. Some may be around 1.5 and others are 3 depends on the company and who they are buying from. Hope this answers the questions.
I use ORCA packs that have had roughly the same IR since the day I got them. I have a 6000 pack that I run in mod sedan and its over a year old and has well over 100+ charge/discharges on it and it is still at 1.3 per cell and gets as low as .9 per cell throughout the day depending on how much its ran. My 7500 packs are about 6 months old ran in 17.5/13.5 sedan and they are usually about 1.1 per cell. They have been as low as .7 per cell. This is how they have been since the day I bought them fro EA. I even have a 7200 pack that is well over 1 1/2 yrs old and is puffed( i left it fully charged for over 2 weeks because I forgot about it after racing one day), and this pack is still good at 1.5 per cell and prob 300+ charges on it. All of these have been charged solely on my 308 at 20+ amps every time. I believe the 308/406/4010 keeps the the packs very healthy as long as you keep them storage charged when not used, and the quality of the pack is a huge part of it.
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Old 07-24-2014, 04:39 AM   #79
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Don't worry about what charger you have. You could charge your battery on a 500.00 charger and the Big Dog at your track could charge his battery on a 20.00 charger and he will still go out and still whip your butt. It's all about driving and practice,practice,practice
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Old 07-24-2014, 07:18 AM   #80
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I bought the first I charger 4010 duo sold in the US back in Oct 2012. When they first came out. My charger has never been calibrated and has its ending voltage has never changed. Its been dead accurate since I got it and I can promise Ive charged more batteries on it than most people on here combined since I use it for cycling brand new packs when I get shipments in to verify their quality.

I have since bought a 308 and just recently a 406 just because they are smaller to travel with. The 308 is more than enough charger for most people and can be bought for under 250.00 or less. No special power supply needed as if your charging at 30 amps it only pulls about 18 amps off of your power supply on 2S and 12 amps on 1S. I routinely charge at 25 and 25 on both sides on a 40 amp power supply with zero issues.

To me it is the best charger out there as far as accuracy and reliability.

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What power supply are you using with your 308 for traveling?
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Old 07-24-2014, 08:58 AM   #81
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What power supply are you using with your 308 for traveling?
A 12v converted computer power supply. weighs 3lbs.

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Old 07-24-2014, 10:12 AM   #82
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How do you guys prevent the battery packs from puffing?
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Old 07-24-2014, 11:03 AM   #83
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How do you guys prevent the battery packs from puffing?
Never charge over 30 amps.

Move expensive higher C rated lipos have a thicker copper that disperse the heat faster to a point of 30 amps.

As batteries get better over time you might be able to charge higher.

Too much heat will cause lipo pack to swell.
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Old 07-24-2014, 11:41 AM   #84
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How do you guys prevent the battery packs from puffing?
A quality lipo after cycling say 10 times or so shouldnt puff, if it isnt abused. Im not sure if a touring can abuse a good quality lipo even with like a 4.5t motor with boost. However a 4x4 short course is another story most batteries will puff in one of those due to the high discharge rate, i've taken one out that was flat in the beginning of the race and at the end of the race it was 100 deg externally and puffed.
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Old 07-24-2014, 11:49 AM   #85
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Then in another way, how do you prevent the battery temp from rising. Obviously controlling ESC and motor temp is one thing. Any other I should be aware of?
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Old 07-28-2014, 04:52 PM   #86
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I have a 6000 pack that I run in mod sedan and its over a year old and has well over 100+ charge/discharges on it and it is still at 1.3 per cell and gets as low as .9 per cell throughout the day depending on how much its ran.
Have you run that pack against a different pack that has a (much) higher IR? If you run a pack that's at .9 per cell, and then run a pack that's 3 per cell (with all other things being equal...) how much time on the clock does that translate to? Tenths, hundredths, thousandths per lap? How much actual time are we chasing in the low IR hunt?

If you can run a heat with a good handling car, not touch or hit ANYthing, and turn a bunch of laps with an average within a tenth or two for your top ten or twenty (or more) laps... is a good pack going to be a night and day difference?

How much would battery condition affect your gearing? The never-ending discussion on race day seems to be FDR... how much would your gearing change (to get the same lap times) on two identical cars if one was running a good pack and other an old tired pack, if at all? Just trying to make this into a tangible measurement somehow, and not just people being OCD over IR and measurements because it's something you CAN measure.
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Old 07-28-2014, 05:25 PM   #87
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Have you run that pack against a different pack that has a (much) higher IR? If you run a pack that's at .9 per cell, and then run a pack that's 3 per cell (with all other things being equal...) how much time on the clock does that translate to? Tenths, hundredths, thousandths per lap? How much actual time are we chasing in the low IR hunt?

If you can run a heat with a good handling car, not touch or hit ANYthing, and turn a bunch of laps with an average within a tenth or two for your top ten or twenty (or more) laps... is a good pack going to be a night and day difference?

How much would battery condition affect your gearing? The never-ending discussion on race day seems to be FDR... how much would your gearing change (to get the same lap times) on two identical cars if one was running a good pack and other an old tired pack, if at all? Just trying to make this into a tangible measurement somehow, and not just people being OCD over IR and measurements because it's something you CAN measure.
I don't really rely on the IR for anything other then how healthy the pack is. When your running mod sedan you have so much power on tap that your not going to really see much difference. When I was running stock I never did any comparisons on lap times, but I could feel the difference in the punch from other batteries and the packs didn't fade off much at all after 6 min.
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Old 07-28-2014, 06:21 PM   #88
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Ok guys, I have the 308 charger. I want to make some charge Leads for 2s packs. I don't want to use the balance boards. Which pins on the balance plugs are the + - and balance pin??? Thanks.
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Old 07-28-2014, 06:31 PM   #89
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From right to left... neg/bal/pos

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Ok guys, I have the 308 charger. I want to make some charge Leads for 2s packs. I don't want to use the balance boards. Which pins on the balance plugs are the + - and balance pin??? Thanks.
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Old 07-28-2014, 06:34 PM   #90
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From right to left... neg/bal/pos
Thank you!!!!!!!
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