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Old 08-16-2014, 02:50 PM   #211
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Hi Guys,

Cool video, and really nice diving Stan. Car prep looks great too, John.

I'll try to get another batch of the Roadkill 10's out to you soon. I just have to get Rev.8's & World GT4's out to customers, hobby shops, Distributors and overseas. The Carpet season starts very soon, and those guys need their cars.

I've got the World Champs in Florida and the IIC in Vegas the first 2 weeks in Oct. That's right around the corner.

Don't fret though, they'll be coming soon, and it should be as a full kit. The IRS 235mm axles are on their way.

Have a nice weekend.-Bruce
At the end of the long straight, air was felt moving as the car passed into the sweeper. The rumble of the airflow over the body was pretty intense. Thanks for the notice. I can only imagine that this is the start of crazy season for you.
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Old 08-16-2014, 07:13 PM   #212
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Default initial shakedown...

Just got most everything done and decided to go to the track to run a few packs through it.

New set BSR World GT tires
geared 78x21
shorty pack
Tekin Gen2 esc default profile
ThunderPower 10.5T 20deg timing
JR3650 servo
Protoform P905B body

The car didn't behave as I expected.

After driving Johns 13.5, which had plenty of snort, I half expected the 10.5 to be a handful if pushed.

Wicked, land missile fast, but completely controlled. How much motor can one put in this chassis before it kicks back? This is not a large track, and yet it was totally drivable in the infield and orgasmic down the straight.

I can't imagine anyone not liking this chassis. I've not driven any pancar like it.
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Old 08-16-2014, 07:15 PM   #213
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Just got most everything done and decided to go to the track to run a few packs through it.

New set BSR World GT tires
geared 78x21
shorty pack
Tekin Gen2 esc default profile
ThunderPower 10.5T 20deg timing
JR3650 servo
Protoform P905B body

The car didn't behave as I expected.

After driving Johns 13.5, which had plenty of snort, I half expected the 10.5 to be a handful if pushed.

Wicked, land missile fast, but completely controlled. How much motor can one put in this chassis before it kicks back? This is not a large track, and yet it was totally drivable in the infield and orgasmic down the straight.

I can't imagine anyone not liking this chassis. I've not driven any pancar like it.
48p gear ?
What size are those tires ?
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Old 08-16-2014, 08:46 PM   #214
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48p gear ?
What size are those tires ?
Out of the bag...60mm?

50.7mm RO or there about...
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Old 08-16-2014, 10:39 PM   #215
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Out of the bag...60mm?

50.7mm RO or there about...
Should be quick
What temps did you see after 4m or so
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Old 08-17-2014, 06:40 AM   #216
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Should be quick
What temps did you see after 4m or so
140 at most as I recall...after a few runs I stopped temping, as I could hold my finger on the motor for a good amount of time with no discomfort.

General observations;

This chassis with a milder motor, would be an absolute joy for a less experienced driver - you wouldn't be a able to get it out of shape and could focus more on driving proper lines. Strap something in and it's more of the same...just faster. Put a 13.5 in a SP LM-1 and see what I mean on the same track - you better be paying attention, it's bites fast and not nearly as composed. This makes sense, not the same car. Love the LM-1, I've two of them.

I think we need to look at the Pro10 class differently as a whole. "Ooooh Pro10, way too big, way too fast, you need your own zip code to drive those." This car felt no bigger on the track than anything else, not at all. I wouldn't go three wide in the sweeper, but I wouldn't do that with anything but a Tamiya mini anyway.

I guess none of this is profound, a Pro10 allows for faster speeds with composure. However, that doesn't mean you have to. Any experience level could grow with this chassis and power it according to skill level. I've met many longtime racers that are downright afraid of 1/12. Don't know if it's the foam thing, investing in 1S batteries, the described "twitchyness"...don't know. liljohn1064 drove his RK10 with more consistency than I've seen him drive anything before.

But this is not that twitchy car. If one is on the fence getting into a pan car, even for the first time, give this a look. You won't be disappointed. If you are, PM me, I'd be interested in buying it from you.
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Old 08-17-2014, 12:00 PM   #217
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Ooooh, ooooh, my RK10 is here on the island. I would say delivery MAYBE Monday or Tuesday!!!!!!
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Old 08-17-2014, 03:03 PM   #218
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140 at most as I recall...after a few runs I stopped temping, as I could hold my finger on the motor for a good amount of time with no discomfort.

General observations;

This chassis with a milder motor, would be an absolute joy for a less experienced driver - you wouldn't be a able to get it out of shape and could focus more on driving proper lines. Strap something in and it's more of the same...just faster. Put a 13.5 in a SP LM-1 and see what I mean on the same track - you better be paying attention, it's bites fast and not nearly as composed. This makes sense, not the same car. Love the LM-1, I've two of them.

I think we need to look at the Pro10 class differently as a whole. "Ooooh Pro10, way too big, way too fast, you need your own zip code to drive those." This car felt no bigger on the track than anything else, not at all. I wouldn't go three wide in the sweeper, but I wouldn't do that with anything but a Tamiya mini anyway.

I guess none of this is profound, a Pro10 allows for faster speeds with composure. However, that doesn't mean you have to. Any experience level could grow with this chassis and power it according to skill level. I've met many longtime racers that are downright afraid of 1/12. Don't know if it's the foam thing, investing in 1S batteries, the described "twitchyness"...don't know. liljohn1064 drove his RK10 with more consistency than I've seen him drive anything before.

But this is not that twitchy car. If one is on the fence getting into a pan car, even for the first time, give this a look. You won't be disappointing. If you are, PM me, I'd be interested in buying it from you.
Agreed, this car is absolutely planted everywhere, is easy to correct on or off throttle. We're talking tires out of the bag @ 2.4", 8mm ride height. I've never had this much confidence in a chassis. Confidence in this hobby is freedom to drive, freedom is speed, speed is fun. I'm having fun again! I'll second that you could run this with 21.5 up to 10.5 indoor as skill level increases. The potential to be and go faster is there. If you ever own a pancar, this is the ONE.

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Old 08-18-2014, 07:57 AM   #219
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Default weight?

Dang this chassis is light...

2S 4000maH lipo
new tires

running weight: 1012 grams
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Old 08-18-2014, 09:14 AM   #220
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Dang this chassis is light...

2S 4000maH lipo
new tires

running weight: 1012 grams
Wow that is really light, especially for a 235mm car! We may have to discuss the proposed 1150g min weight for the clubs Pro10 class rules. By discuss I mean throw it out the window and keep things open and interesting .
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Old 08-18-2014, 07:26 PM   #221
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Wow that is really light, especially for a 235mm car! We may have to discuss the proposed 1150g min weight for the clubs Pro10 class rules. By discuss I mean throw it out the window and keep things open and interesting .
Granted that's a shorty pack, but still...less weight, less tire wear.

We aren't running these things outside on 200ft asphalt tracks with 6000maH+ saddle packs.
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Old 08-18-2014, 07:32 PM   #222
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Granted that's a shorty pack, but still...less weight, less tire wear.

We aren't running these things outside on 200ft asphalt tracks with 6000maH+ saddle packs.
The car will work even better if you cut the tires down to where they belong!
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Old 08-18-2014, 09:23 PM   #223
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The car will work even better if you cut the tires down to where they belong!
Not a rant, but why?

If I can get a set to last 2 months after cutting them down, maybe. I'd rather run them to the point I'd cut them, then true them up and save them for a big race. I know others will cut them down, but until my driving can notice the .2 seconds per lap faster my car will go with cut tires its not worth it. I can get hundreds of laps of practice out of the carcass life I'd cut away. I know, less rolling resistance, less weight, but its club, not IIC, Indoor Champs, Snowbirds, regionals or nationals. Besides, my car is faster than Stan's. (NOT)
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Old 08-18-2014, 09:50 PM   #224
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Not a rant, but why?

If I can get a set to last 2 months after cutting them down, maybe. I'd rather run them to the point I'd cut them, then true them up and save them for a big race. I know others will cut them down, but until my driving can notice the .2 seconds per lap faster my car will go with cut tires its not worth it. I can get hundreds of laps of practice out of the carcass life I'd cut away. I know, less rolling resistance, less weight, but its club, not IIC, Indoor Champs, Snowbirds, regionals or nationals. Besides, my car is faster than Stan's. (NOT)
Taller tires create roll and do not allow the cars suspension to do its job. They also are unpredictable and build up way too much traction.

Honestly if you didn't go faster by more then .2 per lap on the right size tires I would be shocked. In WGT we are cutting them WAY down and I personally have tried them larger, the cars just don't work as well and that is reflected in the lap times. Have you ever seen someone run big tires and go fast? The answer is no because small tires are always going to be faster.
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Old 08-18-2014, 10:32 PM   #225
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I just got my Roadkill 10. My very first Speedmerchant car. Opened the package and was surprised to see its was partially built. Does Bruce always sell his cars partially built?
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