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Old 07-09-2014, 11:31 AM   #1
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Default Touring Car Rubber Tire Prep

As we know, most racing sites have a spec tire traction compound, some even have a spec tire and nearly all big onroad race events will have both to eliminate the need to try potentially hundreds of combinations of wheel/insert/tire that could be tried at an event. I support this, but tire is the only part of your car that should touch the racing surface and as a result, spec tire leads to interesting 'tricks' in tire prep… and I would like a more seasoned TC racer to explain a few:

1: Glue

Superglue on the tire/rim increases the sidewall stiffness and prevents the tire from rolling over under high cornering forces. It also allows the car to slide on the sidewall when it just begins to traction roll, preventing the rollover. My question is how much glue do you need? Cover the rubber all way to the contact patch? Half way? Do you need a paper-thin layer or make several coats? Besides traction roll prevention, what changes in performance characteristics could you expect from glue stiffening the sidewall?

2: Rim Cutting:

Another trick I have seen but have not used or understand is the cutting of the inner ribbing of the rim to allow more flex in the wheel. How does this change the performance of the tire?

3: New Tire Prep

I have never done a special prep of new tires, my usual method is just running the tires in a long practice before racing them, adjusting sauce times according to how the car feels. I have seen several other methods of new tire prep from putting the tires on a truer and sanding off the mold parting line to saucing the tires and putting them in a plastic bag overnight. What suggestions for new tire prep do you have?

4: Tire Life

How long should you run a set of tires, and are there any tricks to keeping tires consistent over their life?
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Old 07-09-2014, 02:20 PM   #2
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I'm not an expert but I can tell you in the two years experience I have this is what I've found:

Glue on the sidewall will induce a push, most often used in the front, to prevent traction rolling and take away steering. I personally don't like this method as it ruins that set of wheels and tires-meaning you cannot undo this change. Is perfer to take droop or spring angle and rates and mess with it that way. Or adjust your driving going Iinto a corner. Our tracks change weekly so for me to glue a set of tires just doesn't make sense.

2: never heard of cutting a rim, but I can't imagine it's legal. Though, I could be wrong, I have never done this so I wouldn't know. Iagain, I'd tune your suspension.

3: new tire prep. Often times your best case for quick wear in is to drive the car on concrete or asphalt, but you can run into scratching your nice cf chassis. Personally I just run laps. Laps and more laps. Rotate front to rear, overdo your steering expo, and throw it around. Sauce as often as you can. Usually about 1-2 5min. Sessions and they are perfect. Some will say depending on your tires (jaco, sweep, etc) newest are fastest.

4: tire life. I average about 3 months per set of tires we run on our local track, and that's racing every Wednesday. Now, national events, obviously I wanna go faster and this, use new tires practically every session. Tire wear will soley be based off your driving style, track layout, and setup. I can however say, that I would rotate your tires and often. Front to eat, inside to outside. I do it every session, and that makes sure they all wear as evenly as possible.

Hope this helps.
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Old 07-09-2014, 02:25 PM   #3
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This guy thinks he can get all the secrets from the internet Actually all those things you are asking about are highly dependent on conditions and actual tire brand being used, car set, power, etc..
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Old 07-09-2014, 03:00 PM   #4
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I am very lazy in tire preparation, but weaken the rim will (or should) lead to a larger tire patch in low grip conditions. As everything, a softer rim has to harmonize with your setup and the tire brand. On most setup details you have to rely on your own test runs, but I am glad you opened this thread as I am curious to hear what the pro racers have experienced
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Old 07-09-2014, 03:03 PM   #5
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SjVRRxP7Fkw
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Old 07-09-2014, 07:28 PM   #6
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I'm no pro but I like to get value out of my gear and I've watched, asked and practised what I've seen racing over the last 5 years.

Is the OP running asphalt or carpet? Spec tyres like ride/muchmore/Solaris are usually harder than optimum and take more work. Something like sorex seem to need zero prep, just run out of the pack once cleaned and the bead is removed. Asphalt you might get 6 good runs before performance tails off significantly but still good for up to 20 runs as practice tyres if cared for. Tyres on carpet take a long time to Come on but last a long time. Make sure you are using a good quality brake cleaner to clean your tyres all the time and as soon as possible after your run. Gluing sidewalls is generally a band aid and should only be used when traction gets ridiculous. I've never run in that kind of traction so I've got nothing.

IMO on asphalt never rotate front tyres to the rear. You can use rears on the front. You will get weird traction using fronts on the rear. i will rotate left to right every run. On carpet I would rotate around the car every run so you are using equally left right front rear. Make sure if your mixing tyre sets that they are similar run time. Newer tyres always to the front.

In my experience tyres on carpet really don't come good till the 4th or 5th run if not sanded heavily. You probably don't want to sand heavily if your club racing but if your at a big event using tyres for only a couple of runs with limited track time then IMO sand the crap out of your tyres. I use 400 grit sand paper and a tyre sander.

Asphalt I will sand only till the gloss is off the whole tyre and the centre bead is removed. You want to sand the bead off regardless of tyre/surface as the bead gives you an inconsistent contact patch. This sanding also puts a short heat cycle in the tyres which opens up the pores and allows the goop to penetrate better. You want to avoid running the tyres too long straight away and getting them too hot. This opens the pores too much and strips the oils out of the rubber. This will shorten the life expectancy of your tyres.

We had the big AOC carpet event here last year and I spent quite a bit of time checking out how Umino was prepping Ronalds car. He kept the tyres wet with goop the whole time between rounds(minimum 1hr 45 mins) he would wipe excess goop off then re apply before he warmed them. He was warming between 30 and 45 minutes depending on the age of the tyres. After watching this all event I got a whole lot more anal and changed my routine.

My usual prep goes like this.

Un bag. Sand of bead/gloss. Clean with wurth brake cleaner. Heavy Goop and keep tyres wet till ready to heat. Wipe Clean. Re goop light/medium and heat minimum 30 mins. Check after 15 minutes and if dry re wet. If dry I will adjust goop to a bit heavier so they come of heat after 30 mins just dry. Wipe off any excess and Run. Clean. Re goop and heat. If a 2 day event or storing after club racing Clean tyres after last run, lightly goop and seal in air tight bag. Next day, clean. Re goop, heat and run. If you have a long wait between rounds keep the tyres wet with goop while not heating. You want to avoid the tyres drying out at all. I will check my tyres in the bag every week if I am not racing/practising weekly.

By light goop I mean maybe 2 or 3 drops of oil goop and wipe sparingly on the tyre. By heavy I mean load that tyre up till it's just dripping off the bottom.

That ended up longer than expected. Hope that is useful to you.
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Old 07-09-2014, 08:37 PM   #7
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So wurth is better than easier to obtain alternatives?

Where do you get it from in Adelaide?
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Old 07-09-2014, 08:41 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cplus View Post
So wurth is better than easier to obtain alternatives?

Where do you get it from in Adelaide?
Your looking for a brake cleaner that doesnt leave an oily residue. Which is why some use motor cleaner, however motor cleaner is more expensive than break cleaner. You could also use the Paul L. tire cleaning method.
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Old 07-09-2014, 08:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thecaptain View Post
Your looking for a brake cleaner that doesnt leave an oily residue.
I've got this stuff. Doesn't seem oily, but would be good to compare to the known "standard"



Quote:
Originally Posted by thecaptain View Post
You could also use the Paul L. tire cleaning method.
Which is?
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Old 07-09-2014, 08:55 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cplus View Post
I've got this stuff. Doesn't seem oily, but would be good to compare to the known "standard"





Which is?
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Old 07-10-2014, 03:19 AM   #11
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The reason Wurth is different from most of the aerosol cleaners is that it contains Naptha alcohol which other cleaners don't.
Naptha is also one of the main ingredients in Lighter Fluid
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Old 07-10-2014, 08:56 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JiuHaWong View Post
Thank you for posting that video, found alot of great information in that video, and in the others I found on that page.
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Old 07-10-2014, 09:12 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
The reason Wurth is different from most of the aerosol cleaners is that it contains Naptha alcohol which other cleaners don't.
Naptha is also one of the main ingredients in Lighter Fluid
Naptha is what I use to clean my tires. Can pick it up at any hardware store.
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Old 08-31-2014, 09:57 AM   #14
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try this stuff. works great for traction compound and cleaning rubber tires.
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