Xray t4'15
#1231
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Well, the Tamiya has these small alu balls that slide onto the end of the pins and the pin can move (rotate) freely in the "ball". What Gilles demonstrates is only applicable to that and have no direct relevance for an Xray which does not use these alu end balls.
I've had Tamiya before Xray and have watched all of Gilles very good demonstration videos, but some of the info is only applicable for Tamiya TRF cars and are not universal.
Please correct me if I'm missing something
I've had Tamiya before Xray and have watched all of Gilles very good demonstration videos, but some of the info is only applicable for Tamiya TRF cars and are not universal.
Please correct me if I'm missing something
One other thing I do is always use aluminum shims on the hinge pins instead of composite, they are much more consistent in size.
#1232
Tech Lord
iTrader: (32)
Another tip, since we're talking about reaming arms, is to re-check and make sure the hinge pin moves free after inserting the droop screw, and also after screwing on the graphite plates if you use those. I put plates on some arms I was using without checking and found them both to be completely bound up afterwards.
#1233
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Well, the Tamiya has these small alu balls that slide onto the end of the pins and the pin can move (rotate) freely in the "ball". What Gilles demonstrates is only applicable to that and have no direct relevance for an Xray which does not use these alu end balls.
I've had Tamiya before Xray and have watched all of Gilles very good demonstration videos, but some of the info is only applicable for Tamiya TRF cars and are not universal.
Please correct me if I'm missing something
I've had Tamiya before Xray and have watched all of Gilles very good demonstration videos, but some of the info is only applicable for Tamiya TRF cars and are not universal.
Please correct me if I'm missing something
I will agree the Xray system is different in that the arm does need to rotate on the pin, instead of the tamiya system of it rotating in the pivot ball, but both systems can bind up if the spacing between the arms is too tight. The light tap on the arm technique helps to solve that, without resorting to sanding arms to different lengths etc.
#1234
I think the light tap Gilles is using works for the Tamiya setup to settle the balls in the suspension blocks. I have found on occasion the balls have tiny bits of swarf from manufacturing so I usually stick them in a chuck on my lathe and polish away any swarf residue. Bad cases have had .5mm wide swarf on the round end of the ball but even less than that is enough to bind the arms. Run your finger over the ball ends and you'll feel if anything is wrong. I guess Tamiya might have changed suppliers or their QC is not as anal as it used to be.
#1236
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
This may seem silly, but after you tighten up the blocks, try tapping the front edge and back edge of the arms a few times with the handle of a driver or a small hammer, close to the hingepin. Not too hard though. This will usually free them up enough. The eccentric inserts might not be quite pushed into the blocks all the way or could be slightly warped on the face.
#1237
Tech Addict
iTrader: (12)
This may seem silly, but after you tighten up the blocks, try tapping the front edge and back edge of the arms a few times with the handle of a driver or a small hammer, close to the hingepin. Not too hard though. This will usually free them up enough. The eccentric inserts might not be quite pushed into the blocks all the way or could be slightly warped on the face.
#1238
That did the trick! Thanks a lot. Now on to my next problem. Is the spur gear supposed to sit centered in the top deck as you look down at it? Mine sits to the right almost touching the top deck.( I have a 96 tooth off set spur) I double checked the manual and I have the spur gear/pully assembly assembled and installed correctly. I am having a hard time aligning my pinion to where it is centered on the spur and being able to get to the set screw to tighten it. No matter which way I put the pinion gear on it is either to close the the motor to get to the screw or too far away.
#1239
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
For 64p gears, I usually use the thin machined spurs from CoreRC, Titan or ARC. Leespeed are another good choice. I think the offset xray spurs were originally made for an older car that required it to be offset?? Not sure on that. I bought my first xray in 2011 and offset spurs have never been a great option for any of the cars I've owned. They will work, but will always be extremely close to one side of the top deck. Not ideal. The 48P spur that ships with the kit isn't offset. Odd they don't make any lower tooth count 64P gears that are centered. Just go for one of the brands I mentioned above.
#1240
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Oh and I always put the pinion on with the collar on the battery side. Can get to the set screw from the bottom beside the spur, at an angle. Need to push the belt out of the way a bit. None of my motors have a long enough flat spot on the rotor to put the collar on the motor side. Some pinions you will find have a collar that sticks out too far. Most are fine, but there are a few that wont fit, PRS comes to mind.
#1241
Tech Elite
iTrader: (33)
i am using the same spur.. and its centered.. you need to flip it.. take it apart.. and flip it over..
page 8 of the manual shows a cut away orientation.. for offset spurs.. notice.. the shallow side is the side the screws go in. or.. on the side of the short belt. the deeper side in on the side for the longer belt..
page 8 of the manual shows a cut away orientation.. for offset spurs.. notice.. the shallow side is the side the screws go in. or.. on the side of the short belt. the deeper side in on the side for the longer belt..
#1242
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
i am using the same spur.. and its centered.. you need to flip it.. take it apart.. and flip it over..
page 8 of the manual shows a cut away orientation.. for offset spurs.. notice.. the shallow side is the side the screws go in. or.. on the side of the short belt. the deeper side in on the side for the longer belt..
page 8 of the manual shows a cut away orientation.. for offset spurs.. notice.. the shallow side is the side the screws go in. or.. on the side of the short belt. the deeper side in on the side for the longer belt..
Take some pictures. I just find it very hard to believe that you have an offset spur centered.
#1243
Tech Elite
iTrader: (33)
i will get a picture.. it may not be exactly centered.. but.. i know when i changed the gear over.. i had to take it apart 2 times to get it right..
i do agree with you.. i have to flip the pinion.. becuase the gear wont tighten down on a flat spot.. and the hole in the bottom doesnt exactly line up..
i do agree with you.. i have to flip the pinion.. becuase the gear wont tighten down on a flat spot.. and the hole in the bottom doesnt exactly line up..
#1245
The one other person I saw having this issue had got 8mms on the front. With 10mm, they rarely strip.