Chris Adams

At Al's, its probably track debris causing it. If not, you may have the mesh a little too loose. With 64 pitch, it has to be perfect gear mesh, especially now with the stronger motors. I suggest going to 48 pitch if it continues once the mesh is set perfectly.

daleburr

Clean the motor and motor mount with brake cleaner to make sure there's no grease/oil on the surfaces.

Make sure the screws are as long as you can possibly use without them fouling on the motor internals. Then tighten the screws down really tight.

And as suggested, use 48dp. This will allow a small amount of movement in a big crash without stripping the gears.

SpidarX

iTrader: (3)

Thanks guys for the suggestions. Now that I think about it, I had a diff leak a few weeks ago, perhaps the oil is on the mount causing the motor to not stay secure. I will definitely clean things thoroughly.

niznai

Are you using some spring washers on those motor screws?

SpidarX

iTrader: (3)

No

erchn

iTrader: (7)

They wouldn't help either.

Salkin

I have never had any problems with the motor not staying tightly in place. I don't even think a little oil would cause any trouble.

Are you sure the edge of your motor does not rub on the upper deck so it can not be tightened fully. Some motors either do not have a beveled edge or one of the motor screws in front rubs on the top deck, which can be solved by rotating the motor some degrees to the next mounting holes.

This issue is also described in the manual.

You are not using too long screws to secure the motor, in the motor mount, so they tighten against motor internals instead of the motor mount?

SpidarX

iTrader: (3)

Is there any difference between a regular panaracer spur and a yokomo branded panaracer spur?

For instance, will the following work for the xray?
http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/yokomo-...7-6496/p242268

R3VoLuTiOn

iTrader: (29)

same thing, they'll work.

thomasd

Has anyone got a good carpet ars setup

eded1

Build your ARS on your car and set-up as close to your normal set-up.
Than you can play with your ARS rod to set it higher or lower.
The rest is your feeling and ability to handle your car.
For my self I have build the car and have only driven with ARS and it is good.
Good Luck.

Ed

SpidarX

iTrader: (3)

Well, I found my problem. I thought I would post so maybe someone else doesn't make the same mistake. The stripping problem was caused by the button head screw that goes on the bottom of the chassis into the motor mount. It came loose and was allowing flex in the mount which was allowing the play between the spur and pinion.

Danny-b23

iTrader: (3)

I personally don't really like the ARS on carpet. The stock rear end has been better for me.

Barry_Hughes

I built my car with ARS and tried many setups.
The problem I found was the car always felt tail happy and I wasn't confident in really pushing with it on.
The best set up was adding 4mm shims to the inside chassis mount and mounting the outside ball stud on top of the arm rather than below. Set static rear toe to 1 degree in. With this the rear was more planted and I felt more confident with the car. With this set up I could get a quicker single lap time, but the car was still inconsistent, a problem I found using the ARS.

I have changed back to the standard rear set up (non ARS) and found I have a lot more confidence in the car and lap times are more consistent and therefore the overall race run is quicker, even if the single best lap is fractionally slower

niznai

They're an extra layer of backup safety. Personally never had a motor come loose, but then again, always used spring washers. Nothing more annoying than a DNF because of lost mesh. And I have to say, my car has done some spectacular aerobatics (sic) at times.