RioImmagina

Hello,
I have a question that I hope you may answer, regarding my T4 2014 and its electronic.
I went practicing for the first time at a local track. Everything awesome, but, after some laps at turtle speed, my throttle died. Steering still fine, but no power whatsoever. I thought to drained battery. I switch pack, I drive few laps and dead again. Then I noticed the leds of the ESC blinking. The error code was motor overheating, but the motor was definitely cold. I run LRP flow ESC, with LRP X20 13.5T motor, in blinky mode.
After other trials, nothing... Few turns and dead throttle. A very kind guy quickly switched my ESC with his backup one (a Team Orion), with tons of timing and turbo. The car was hyperfast and I managed to finish a pack without issues. Electronic was glowing hot, though.
So, before trashing my ESC, I checked the gear ratio. I am at 76/32. I did some research and I kinda understood that, for 13.5T, that's wrong. I should change my pinion with a 26 teeth one, in order to get a ratio of 5.55:1. Actually I am at 4.51:1.

Might this be the cause of my dead throttle issue?

Thanks

Ph3nyx

did you have checked your lipo cut off ?

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

I had the exact same problem somedays ago (X20 13.5t). In the end it was the sensor unit of the motor...
Before buying a new esc I would try another sensor unit or motor or sensor cable first.

christophed83

same problem with my X20 10.5T Stock-spec(esc HW V3.1), it was the sensor unit.

RioImmagina

Thank you for the answers.
Yes, I checked the Lipo cutoff and state of charge. Both fine.
I also thought to the sensor cable. I checked with a multimeter if all the wires were conducting and it looked ok too. I have anyway a brand new Tekin cable from my 1/8 motor that should fit.
So, do you exclude a gearing issue?

Sorry, I saw that you all were referring to the sensor unit, not to the cable. I will try to find one.

RioImmagina

I saw that xray offers pinions and spur gear in two different pitch... how do you recognize which one is which?

Brianisoutside

48P and 64p
48 has larger teeth than 64. Once you see them in person it's not hard to tell.

erchn

iTrader: (7)

This can be useful.
http://www.ultrascale.com/node/15

RioImmagina

This is useful indeed!
Thank you

crusty

iTrader: (7)

what screws are people taking out for flex usually? if any.
on the setup sheets it has a section - motor mount flex yes or no. if the no is ticked im gathering the screw is used

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

You can remove the spur gear bulkhead screws, remove the motor mount post and work with the downside motormount screws.
The I always leave last mentioned as the manual said. The motor mount post makes the car turn better, the front end then dominates (feels like the car is pulled around the corner by a string). I for myself never used the spur gear bulkhead screws.
Additionally you can get the RSD bulkhead braces. With these the car stays flatter and you also can manipulate balance and flex. I use one in front.

crusty

iTrader: (7)

By Spur gear bulkhead screws you mean the four on top of the top deck there

tbrymer

iTrader: (10)

I'm pretty sure that's what he means. A lot of people leave all four of those screws out and prop up the top deck using 1mm shims under the top deck for all the other screws holding the top deck down.

Bony85

Hi guys last minute question. Does anyone know if the original t4 top deck fits the 2015. I know the centre post hole won't be there but it's the 8 bulkhead screws I'm concerned with

daleburr

Yes it's only the centre post that won't fit, fine apart from that.