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Old 06-08-2014, 06:37 PM   #16
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Great work and congratulations on your achievement.

I see you can mount the battery way in a place I can't, the belt gets in the way. I'm thinking of making two chassis, one for saddle pack and another for a shorty. The saddle one will be similar to stock but without the cut outs for Sub C cells, I just have to make 2 cradles and a new top deck because the battery plugs don't clear the top deck. The shorty one will have the battery mounted lengthwise and thanks to your idea will use a floating servo mount to flip the servo to the left side, so I can mount the battery more inward. I'm just waiting for the completion of the pin router and G10 sheets.
Hi pal ...i think there is no need to make 2 chassis for each type of battety. Its possible to mske one chassis fit both. Its ok to let part of the battery overhang the chassis with lipo..you would just need 2 types of cradles. The floating servo mount is a great invention and it really even outs the flex.
Isnt there a belt tensioner so that you can push the belt out of the way ? On my car the servo was originally on the right side. With the vbc mount i had to shift it to the left side and flip my diffs and belts.

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Old 06-09-2014, 10:15 AM   #17
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Default Hong-Nor OB-4

Hong-Nor Produced the OB-4
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Old 06-09-2014, 01:48 PM   #18
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I'm still designing a chassis so I'll see if I can make an universal chassis to fit both kinds of batteries. The belt tensioner is right after the layshaft, and the belt almost rubs on the motor can so I think I need to relocate to be beneath the top deck.

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Hong-Nor Produced the OB-4
You are right, I'll change the title. Seems I can't change the thread title...
Mine looks like this except the chassis on the left side(driver side) has 6 battery slots.
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Old 06-09-2014, 02:18 PM   #19
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Seems I can't change the thread title...
I've noticed the same thing. One can correct the title in the original post, but the thread title doesn't change.

If it's a big concern, you could start another thread with the correct title, and refer readers to the new thread with a post here. It doesn't matter to me; I'll read the thread either way. Heck, I ran the car a long time before I ever knew it wasn't made by OFNA!
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Old 06-09-2014, 02:27 PM   #20
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Suppension parts from the OFNA LD3/CD3 will work on this car.
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Old 06-09-2014, 03:36 PM   #21
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Thanks! I just looked at the instructions for the LD3 Pro, and the cross-sectional view of the front upright shows no inner lip to keep the 5x11mm outer bearing from being pushed all the way through, as I previously recalled in post #4. (The lip IS shown in the rear upright.) Maybe 30Tooth has uprights from a different car?
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Old 06-09-2014, 03:44 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by howardcano View Post
I've noticed the same thing. One can correct the title in the original post, but the thread title doesn't change.

If it's a big concern, you could start another thread with the correct title, and refer readers to the new thread with a post here. It doesn't matter to me; I'll read the thread either way. Heck, I ran the car a long time before I ever knew it wasn't made by OFNA!
I'll take it to a Moderator, see what can be done. In the mean time I'll keep updating this thread.

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Suppension parts from the OFNA LD3/CD3 will work on this car.
Thanks for the tip! According to my research, LD3 front and rear arms and front uprights are the same, rear uprights aren't the same but I think they can be modded for a longer upper link. The CD3 front top arms are different, bulkier and almost sure they are compatible.

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Thanks! I just looked at the instructions for the LD3 Pro, and the cross-sectional view of the front upright shows no inner lip to keep the 5x11mm outer bearing from being pushed all the way through, as I previously recalled in post #4. (The lip IS shown in the rear upright.) Maybe 30Tooth has uprights from a different car?
I'm going to disassemble a front upright and take pictures
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Last edited by 30Tooth; 06-09-2014 at 03:59 PM.
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Old 06-09-2014, 04:28 PM   #23
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I'm going to disassemble a front upright and take pictures
Oh, I don't doubt you, I'm just wondering if the uprights were modified by Hong Nor during the production run, or somebody replaced the uprights on your car before you got it.

Now I'm tempted to order new OB4 and LD3 uprights (if I can find them) to look at. And I don't even own the car anymore! "Curiosity killed the cat!"

EDIT: The OB4 uprights (#39090, the same part number as those on the JL10 Drift) have two holes for ackerman, while the LD3 uprights (#38265) have three. Since you mentioned in post #9 that your car's uprights have three holes, I'm betting they are from the LD3.

39090: http://www.nitrohouse.com/FKnuckle-A...dj_p_7682.html

38265: http://www.nitrohouse.com/Knuckle-Fr...-3_p_7429.html
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Old 06-09-2014, 05:21 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by howardcano View Post
Oh, I don't doubt you, I'm just wondering if the uprights were modified by Hong Nor during the production run, or somebody replaced the uprights on your car before you got it.

Now I'm tempted to order new OB4 and LD3 uprights (if I can find them) to look at. And I don't even own the car anymore! "Curiosity killed the cat!"

EDIT: The OB4 uprights (#39090, the same part number as those on the JL10 Drift) have two holes for ackerman, while the LD3 uprights (#38265) have three. Since you mentioned in post #9 that your car's uprights have three holes, I'm betting they are from the LD3.

39090: http://www.nitrohouse.com/FKnuckle-A...dj_p_7682.html

38265: http://www.nitrohouse.com/Knuckle-Fr...-3_p_7429.html
Oh I didn't take it that way, I'm curious myself. My car's uprights are the 39090 ones with two holes.
I'll update in a sec with pics
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Old 06-09-2014, 06:38 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 30Tooth View Post
I'm still designing a chassis so I'll see if I can make an universal chassis to fit both kinds of batteries. The belt tensioner is right after the layshaft, and the belt almost rubs on the motor can so I think I need to relocate to be beneath the top deck.


You are right, I'll change the title. Seems I can't change the thread title...
Mine looks like this except the chassis on the left side(driver side) has 6 battery slots.
Very Nice car, reminds me of the ABC Carrera and the Altas YM-34. The belt rubbing the motor a little isn't a problem, happens to my Kawada with a 17T pulley. With my shorties shifted far forward as possible, there is slight possibility sometimes the belt flapping around would rub on the lipo, which by the way I don't really find that it affects performance because its just a slight touch. You can narrow down the chassis and let the saddles overhang, heck maybe you can even allow the saddles to touch each other,, to bring them as close as possible to center, if it doesn't obstruct your front belt. With the shorty pack I managed to bring my Kawada chassis width down to 70mm. The original was 108mm for saddle pack Ni cds, then my 1st version lipo chassis was 90mm. By the way, this chassis of mine will work with full size stick packs too, just need longer cradles, but will not work with saddles. I see that your cars diff bearing spacing is very near. I found that the Schumacher mi4 36T gear diff is very narrow, I think 23.6mm bearing to bearing ,measured from outside to outside.
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Old 06-10-2014, 05:58 AM   #26
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I see what you are saying. The only problem I have is that I can only set the shorty next to the motor if I go the transverse way, the belt gets in the way.
I took some measurements and I can go as low as 70mm wide and still have a little more than 50% of the saddles protected by the chassis, I can mount the cradles on the inside screwed right in the center of the chassis and interlock them to give even side to side flex. One servo mount is right in the chassis center so it will be easy to do a floating servo mount.
To Howard, I don't know if you can see the pic, I pushed the CVD back so what you see is the bearing,shim and the elusive bearing stopper
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Old 06-10-2014, 07:43 AM   #27
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To Howard, I don't know if you can see the pic, I pushed the CVD back so what you see is the bearing,shim and the elusive bearing stopper
Many thanks! It does look a little weak, but then if I hadn't whacked the boards, everything would have been fine! I wonder if there is room to drill a hole through the upright and press a couple of metal pins in to reinforce the plastic lip?

I'm taking an interest in this as a possible replacement for the front uprights on my fleet of XRay T1's. Parts are now virtually impossible to come by. My work-around so far is to use NT1 parts, which are on the pricey side. The OFNA parts are much cheaper!
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Old 06-10-2014, 12:18 PM   #28
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Many thanks! It does look a little weak, but then if I hadn't whacked the boards, everything would have been fine! I wonder if there is room to drill a hole through the upright and press a couple of metal pins in to reinforce the plastic lip?

I'm taking an interest in this as a possible replacement for the front uprights on my fleet of XRay T1's. Parts are now virtually impossible to come by. My work-around so far is to use NT1 parts, which are on the pricey side. The OFNA parts are much cheaper!
You're welcome, if you need any measurement just say so.

I was thinking about this, using a lathe to enlarge the outer bearing's OD so you can use the same bearing on both upright sides and have a bigger lip to keep the bearing.
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Old 06-23-2014, 12:08 AM   #29
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any updates ? On Saturday night I was bashing around with my friends. 2 were driving VBC wildfires, one a HB Cyclone, and me My Kawada. One of my pal with his VBC commented his car wasn't stable. I drove it and found it to be stable enough and self corrected itself under acceleration, but it was understeering. So I asked my friend to drive my Kawada. after about 10s, he exclaimed, wow, your car is so easy to drive, there is so much steering, and its very stable and goes where I want it to ! So what was the difference between our cars ? it was obvious mine was the only car at the track with a centered motor and battery going through the center. So I believe that was one of the biggest factor to its quick and stable direction changes. I bet when you are done with yours you will feel that too.
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Old 06-23-2014, 11:17 AM   #30
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No updates, been very busy with track maintenance
The first issue I have is tool related, my pin router isn't ready, once it is... Had one amazing idea for a lipo cradle.
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