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Old 05-30-2014, 02:22 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by viking44 View Post
This may be a dumb question, but what is the difference between corner balancing with scales and using a tweak board? I mean other than having actual numbers to factor in when using scales?
Essentially the same thing. It's the same thing as someone using a set up station vs a camber gauge. Does the exact same thing in a different way.

I prefer a tweak board, personally.
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Old 05-30-2014, 04:56 PM   #17
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I've been getting to grips with corner weights. Really pleasing with how the car then feels on the track, 100% confidence when it's on the money.

I was wondering after corner weighting a car how do you handle spring changes at the track? Do you bring the scales with and corner weight again?
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Old 05-30-2014, 06:34 PM   #18
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The mi5 is very heavy on the motor side if I went by the pins on the bottom of the chassis the bat would be past it's limits to the right by 6mm wtf to that!!!
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Old 05-30-2014, 06:45 PM   #19
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Corner weights should always be done before every run, just as a checking procedure... I also used a mip tweak board, but it was not nearly as precise as the scales.... I'll stick with the scales from now on. It's also more professional than the tweak board. Remember guys, you can't precisely move the weight front to back with a tweak board.....
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Old 05-30-2014, 06:50 PM   #20
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I dunno, as long as you're consistent in your setup, you don't have to have all that stuff.

Our local fast guy (Roar stock winner and consistent A-mains in National events) sets up his car with basically just a camber gauge and does the pickup method to check his tweak.
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Old 05-30-2014, 11:06 PM   #21
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This hobby is really about small details, and the scales help in that aspect... Will they make me the next Volker ??? Absolutely not..... They just make me a faster Bert....lol...
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Old 05-31-2014, 03:40 AM   #22
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i found that with the corner scales is was only any good for placing electrics to get a rough balance of the car,if you set your car up race ready then stick the car on the scales you can then see how much difference there is ,but shocks length play a big part in it,its to easy to induce shock tweak with scales,i dont use scales anymore,i have never seen a top/fast driver using scales at the track,for front to rear balance put the scales under the chassis front and rear and move electrics/lipo around to get it right,then you can do the same by putting the scales side by side and checking side balance,then you at least know that the chassis is balanced,the suspension needs to be perfect,ie shocks built the same,same length and the collars are wound out exactly the same amount,i mark the collar when they are wound up to the top that way i know they are exactly the same preload when wound down to the spring
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Old 05-31-2014, 05:44 AM   #23
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Just a comment. It would be very rare for two springs to have the same exact length or rate as well as getting the shocks equal in length. They will be close but not exact. Proper use of a scale set (a calibrated set) is much more accurate and easier that a tweak board. I set all the camber, ride heights and droop before it goes to the scales. Then it is usually just a little adjustment of the collars to get it perfect.
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Old 05-31-2014, 06:14 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by old_dude View Post
Just a comment. It would be very rare for two springs to have the same exact length or rate as well as getting the shocks equal in length. They will be close but not exact. Proper use of a scale set (a calibrated set) is much more accurate and easier that a tweak board. I set all the camber, ride heights and droop before it goes to the scales. Then it is usually just a little adjustment of the collars to get it perfect.
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Old 05-31-2014, 07:34 AM   #25
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anyone ever read xtreme rc... you could nickel and dime it. when you get to quarters you got to start all over again
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Old 05-31-2014, 07:38 AM   #26
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What I do for chassis suspension setup. Before I do what's listed below, I always un-tweak the chassis.

1 - Place chassis on balancing pins and move electronics to find balance.
2 - Measure each shock to be the exact same length.
3 - Build each shock with zero rebound (john, dick and harry may suggest otherwise).
4 - Droop settings exactly the same left to right.
5 - Check to make sure the arms are not binding.
6 - Make sure the camber is equal left to right.
7 - Thread the shock collars down equally, use verniers to measure this**
8 - Adjust the shock collars up or down equally until ride height is equal left and right / front and rear. Example, 5.0 mm rear / 5.0 front.
9 - Adjust the collars up and or down equally for suspension tweak.
10 - Put on scales and adjust accordingly. You can also use this website to find out what target scale weights you need to achieve.

http://robrobinette.com/corner_weight_calc.htm

** front and rear shock collars will be different, b/c the rear is weighted more than the front.
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Old 05-31-2014, 07:43 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
What I do for chassis suspension setup. Before I do what's listed below, I always un-tweak the chassis.

1 - Place chassis on balancing pins and move electronics to find balance.
2 - Measure each shock to be the exact same length.
3 - Build each shock with zero rebound (john, dick and harry may suggest otherwise).
4 - Droop settings exactly the same left to right.
5 - Check to make sure the arms are not binding.
6 - Make sure the camber is equal left to right.
7 - Thread the shock collars down equally, use verniers to measure this**
8 - Adjust the shock collars up or down equally until ride height is equal left and right / front and rear. Example, 5.0 mm rear / 5.0 front.
9 - Adjust the collars up and or down equally for suspension tweak.
10 - Put on scales and adjust accordingly. You can also use this website to find out what target scale weights you need to achieve.

http://robrobinette.com/corner_weight_calc.htm

** front and rear shock collars will be different, b/c the rear is weighted more than the front.
hey I just said that

some people pinch pennies too
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Old 05-31-2014, 07:48 AM   #28
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I pinch yen.
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Old 05-31-2014, 08:02 AM   #29
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dude even your a-arms are carbon fiber..... I don't see how you can balance it with the motor all the way back there...mine is in the middle of the chassis along with my battery... I guess some people like challenges

but I do understand the lingo so maybe i'll pay attention
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Old 05-31-2014, 11:19 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
What I do for chassis suspension setup. Before I do what's listed below, I always un-tweak the chassis.

1 - Place chassis on balancing pins and move electronics to find balance.
2 - Measure each shock to be the exact same length.
3 - Build each shock with zero rebound (john, dick and harry may suggest otherwise).
4 - Droop settings exactly the same left to right.
5 - Check to make sure the arms are not binding.
6 - Make sure the camber is equal left to right.
7 - Thread the shock collars down equally, use verniers to measure this**
8 - Adjust the shock collars up or down equally until ride height is equal left and right / front and rear. Example, 5.0 mm rear / 5.0 front.
9 - Adjust the collars up and or down equally for suspension tweak.
10 - Put on scales and adjust accordingly. You can also use this website to find out what target scale weights you need to achieve.

http://robrobinette.com/corner_weight_calc.htm

** front and rear shock collars will be different, b/c the rear is weighted more than the front.


I would only add:

When checking the overall weight distribution on the scales, I usually "lock out" my shocks using fuel tubing. (You could also use turnbuckles in place of the shocks.) I then install the springs and balance as per steps 9-10.

You can do the left/right balance with the Hudy balance tools, but the scales will do front/back and left/right.

Spring rates and shock rebounds are never perfect for all four shocks. You just have to do your best to get them as close as possible.

I have also used the MIP and Hudy tweak stations with positive results. And they are cheaper than the longacre.
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