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Old 05-17-2014, 08:10 PM   #1
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Default touring bodies

im not a just b/c it looks better body person...

what are some good durable bodies

ones better than hpi

190mm or 200mm
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Old 05-17-2014, 11:00 PM   #2
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90 views and no comment? really?
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Old 05-18-2014, 01:48 AM   #3
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PF MazdaSpeed6 LW #1487-11 for Carpet
PF LTC-R LW #1505-25 for Asphalt

That's what 99% of pros at the ETS are using and also the regular drivers.
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Old 05-18-2014, 08:39 AM   #4
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If you looking for durability over weight then go for the Normal weight bodies not the light or pro-light versions. Also make sure your edges are smooth to prevent cracking. I've always used protoform bodies as I've found them to have the highest quality lexan IMHO.
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Old 05-18-2014, 09:28 AM   #5
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There are things you can do to strengthen any shell, like applying a generous layer of shoe goo all in the nose, around the splitter, front wheel wells and back corners. Some people embed drywall tape or even fibreglass cloth in the shoe goo for extra strength. Even just using a little shoe goo in key spots will help extend the life of a shell without affecting the handling too much. If you get too carried away, it can affect performance by raising the COG and shifting weight forward.

Thicker lexan will tend to be a bit stronger, but will crack in a hard collision and raises the center of gravity, so the car will have more of a tendency to flip in high grip conditions. Thinner lightweight lexan will still crack and can even have sections tear right off, but for performance in high grip, it's what most racers use.
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Old 05-18-2014, 10:51 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kongluc View Post
90 views and no comment? really?
well you didnt give much info,what car is the shell for? what do you want to do with it?
ie race/bash? what are you looking for in a shell? more downforce or less for more top speed? do you need a tougher/thicker lexan to make them last longer?all these things must be taken into account before anyone can recommend a shell for your requirements
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Old 05-18-2014, 02:10 PM   #7
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Protoform LTCR LW
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Old 05-18-2014, 07:35 PM   #8
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As chasingthepack mention, depends on what purpose would you like to run for.
for formal racing, there are limited types of brand bodies you can choose from. i.e. Protoform, BittyDesign, Blitz, HotBody. etc. Just go to ROAR or EFRA official website to check out.
for bashing/casual racing, choose anything you like.
All body shells are made of Lexan and will eventually break. but you can re-inforce them by correct tapping and apply Anti-Tuck Body Stiffeners.
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Old 05-18-2014, 07:57 PM   #9
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As one of the previous posters said, what do you want to do? Race? what class? vta, usgt, touring car? More information from you would help get you an answer.
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Old 05-19-2014, 05:54 AM   #10
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no racing just like some gymkana style stuff at the mostly on road and a mixture of off road. nothing like those videos you see on youtube where you do one frame at a time.

my car is an hpi sprint two
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Old 05-19-2014, 07:44 AM   #11
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Then disregard pretty much everything above as you have wasted their time.

HPI bodies are pretty good and there really isnt a great body that will handle off-road. Bodies crack over time and crashing helps.

That said the shoe-goo and either fiberglass/drywall mesh does help alot. My vta bodies all get that treatment and it helps them last longer, they still crack.

Look at http://www.mcallisterracing.com/ for some options. Tamiya is another.

That said, the HPI bodies are probably your best bet.
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Old 05-19-2014, 08:12 AM   #12
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I once bought an hpi body...got it all painted up and when I pulled off the overspray film the body had a lot of places where the only thing holding it together was the overspray film...so im tryin to stay away from hpi

I don't see how I was waisting anyones time...this is an onroad forum

Last edited by kongluc; 05-19-2014 at 08:30 AM.
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Old 05-19-2014, 08:50 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kongluc View Post
I once bought an hpi body...got it all painted up and when I pulled off the overspray film the body had a lot of places where the only thing holding it together was the overspray film...so im tryin to stay away from hpi

I don't see how I was waisting anyones time...this is an onroad forum
HPI bodies occasionally run into the "thin spot" problem, but the occurrences are few and far between. For the most part, their bodies tend to offer good detail and durability. Before painting the body, check the body for obvious defects (like thin spots) and you could save yourself a lot of headaches.

It would have been a little easier if you stated the intended use of the body in your first post - many on-road racers (and off-road racers, for that matter) don't use any one vehicle on multiple surface types - since you posted in an on-road forum, it was assumed that you were using your car on a typical on-road surface, meaning asphalt or carpet. Therefore, most of the recommendations were geared towards that assumption.

While you weren't really intending to waste anyone's time, per se, a little more detail in the first post would have helped guide our suggestion process.
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Old 05-19-2014, 08:54 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kongluc View Post
I once bought an hpi body...got it all painted up and when I pulled off the overspray film the body had a lot of places where the only thing holding it together was the overspray film...so im tryin to stay away from hpi

I don't see how I was waisting anyones time...this is an onroad forum
This make no sense.

I've had a few HPI bodies, the STI is very durable, the E30 M3 is not, the hard lines in the mold cause the bumpers to crack very easily. The e90 M3 bodies are durable as well. Tamiya are high in detail, and some are durable, and some are less, you can kinda see it by the molding.
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Old 05-19-2014, 10:06 AM   #15
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Quote:
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This make no sense.
I was trying not to double post
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