Tamiya F201 v. touring car
#1
Tamiya F201 v. touring car
How does an F201 compare in performance to a touring car?
#4
when we ran them at my local track we were just as fast as the TC's
#5
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If you have the 3racing chassis you can change the pinion and spur....
When I ran it was just as fast as the stock motors everyone else was running..
When I ran it was just as fast as the stock motors everyone else was running..
#6
I wouldn't recommend one if its your only car. They are a pain to work on and no they are not as fast as a TC. They are fun, but can be expensive to get to high level of performance.
#8
Tech Adept
I race regulary with the F201 since two year now.
I our club we use a 17T motor and we run two classes one with TC with 17T motor and one with F201 with 17T motor.
Gearing is fully free ... like tires and hop-up.
So under same Battery and motor (the 17T motor is a quite fast one BTW) ... the TC is around 5% faster then the F201 ... ok I should say that in the TC class there are lot of Tamiya 415 and TC4 and experienced people.
The track is an outdoor track, with multiple layout possible.
So far it has never happen that the fastest F201 was faster the the best TC !
Our F201 has 3Racing carbon chassin, and some use side by side battery (via a little change in the carbon chassis).
About how strong is the car.
The properly hop-up F201 is as strong as any good robust car.
But ... Almost everybody is runing with Alu parts from 3Racing and a reinforce arm in the rear gear-box ..
My F201 has done many many spettacular crashes ... and after have all the neded hop-up in place I never have a failure in the F201.
For make durable the F201 you need the Alu wheel hubs from 3Racing and add the self made arm between the two rear TOE-IN support in the rear gearbox.
What sometime can still fail is the rear wing in case of too many crashes ... luckily we can get a spare rear wing for around 10$.
All in all : The F201 is a good car and very strong ... but not as fast as a TC3/4 or HPI PRO 4 or Tamiya 415 ... etc. Since here in Austria the f201 kit is just 99 Euro hopefully there will be back some interest ... racing the F201 it is a fully different experience then a TC ... but race an F201 against a TC is quite dunny and even not so spectacular ...
e_lm_70
P.S: Find the right F201 set up is not that trivial ... in general it requite quite some rear TOE-IN (around 3 deg) for avoid instability and oversteering.
I our club we use a 17T motor and we run two classes one with TC with 17T motor and one with F201 with 17T motor.
Gearing is fully free ... like tires and hop-up.
So under same Battery and motor (the 17T motor is a quite fast one BTW) ... the TC is around 5% faster then the F201 ... ok I should say that in the TC class there are lot of Tamiya 415 and TC4 and experienced people.
The track is an outdoor track, with multiple layout possible.
So far it has never happen that the fastest F201 was faster the the best TC !
Our F201 has 3Racing carbon chassin, and some use side by side battery (via a little change in the carbon chassis).
About how strong is the car.
The properly hop-up F201 is as strong as any good robust car.
But ... Almost everybody is runing with Alu parts from 3Racing and a reinforce arm in the rear gear-box ..
My F201 has done many many spettacular crashes ... and after have all the neded hop-up in place I never have a failure in the F201.
For make durable the F201 you need the Alu wheel hubs from 3Racing and add the self made arm between the two rear TOE-IN support in the rear gearbox.
What sometime can still fail is the rear wing in case of too many crashes ... luckily we can get a spare rear wing for around 10$.
All in all : The F201 is a good car and very strong ... but not as fast as a TC3/4 or HPI PRO 4 or Tamiya 415 ... etc. Since here in Austria the f201 kit is just 99 Euro hopefully there will be back some interest ... racing the F201 it is a fully different experience then a TC ... but race an F201 against a TC is quite dunny and even not so spectacular ...
e_lm_70
P.S: Find the right F201 set up is not that trivial ... in general it requite quite some rear TOE-IN (around 3 deg) for avoid instability and oversteering.