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Old 04-16-2015, 01:53 PM
  #451  
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Thanks!

I see in the notifications "steeringblocks changed left to right."

Why is that?
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Old 04-16-2015, 02:44 PM
  #452  
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Originally Posted by spacendeman
Thanks!

I see in the notifications "steeringblocks changed left to right."

Why is that?
It brings the steering arm lower (closer to the chassis) and so it helps with bump steer.
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Old 04-17-2015, 05:33 AM
  #453  
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I will be racing for the 1st time my new eryx 3.0 at HobbyTown Austin in the 17.5 Blinky class.
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Old 04-20-2015, 05:29 AM
  #454  
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Just raced the Eryx 3.0 for the first time this weekend (carpet/modifide). The car is great, but i struggled with the blades breaking in the spool. The original ones rearly lasted longer than 2 heats, I had some yokomo blades laying around that held up better but still not very satisfying.

Im sure others must sruggle with this to, what are your solutions?
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Old 04-20-2015, 10:31 AM
  #455  
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Originally Posted by Stusdal
Just raced the Eryx 3.0 for the first time this weekend (carpet/modifide). The car is great, but i struggled with the blades breaking in the spool. The original ones rearly lasted longer than 2 heats, I had some yokomo blades laying around that held up better but still not very satisfying.

Im sure others must sruggle with this to, what are your solutions?
This has already been discussed at length a few pages back in the thread. Lots of interesting views. Check it out...
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Old 04-20-2015, 03:52 PM
  #456  
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Originally Posted by Stusdal
Just raced the Eryx 3.0 for the first time this weekend (carpet/modifide). The car is great, but i struggled with the blades breaking in the spool. The original ones rearly lasted longer than 2 heats, I had some yokomo blades laying around that held up better but still not very satisfying.

Im sure others must sruggle with this to, what are your solutions?

Basically you have 2 options:

1. Try and Find part numbers SER401380 & SER401408, which don't take blades and was used on the Eryx 2.0.

or

2. Use the ARC R10 spool (R102003) and spring steel drive cups (R103001), The ARC spool fits the Eryx but you will need to do a light sand on the chassis because the pulley will slightly rub on the chassis. Make sure you buy the ARC pulley (R10102A) as well if you don't want to drill out your Eryx pulley seeing that ARC uses 3mm screws at the pulley and the Eryx uses 2mm at the pulley. The Eryx drives shafts are a direct fit into the ARC steel outdrives. I Tq'd and won with this setup!


By the way....I haven't had a problem with the kit spool on asphalt or on a carpet track without boards. The blades don't break on their own, they only break if you hit things. If you go with options 1 or 2, they will both at least give you some durability, but like all metal on metal spools the outdrives eventually will wear out or widen due to impacts.

Last edited by Sean Williams; 04-20-2015 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 04-21-2015, 01:05 AM
  #457  
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Thank you Sean!

With the serpent steel beeing as good as it is, I cannot understand why they would move away from that solution from the eryx 2.0... but i guess they had their reasons
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Old 04-21-2015, 06:38 AM
  #458  
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Originally Posted by Stusdal
Thank you Sean!

With the serpent steel beeing as good as it is, I cannot understand why they would move away from that solution from the eryx 2.0... but i guess they had their reasons
To be honest, the 3.0 kit / bladed spool is faster and smoother. I run the bladed spool outdoors and haven't had one issue, not even a broken blade.
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Old 04-21-2015, 08:40 AM
  #459  
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Originally Posted by Stusdal
Thank you Sean!

With the serpent steel beeing as good as it is, I cannot understand why they would move away from that solution from the eryx 2.0... but i guess they had their reasons
I'd rather break a plastic blade then a steel coupler!

I also think that the older design (bladeless) wore out the spool outdrives waaay faster also.
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Old 04-21-2015, 10:40 AM
  #460  
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The ERYX 3.0 ran well for it's 1st outing here in Austin. I did lose one blade as a results of me bumping the boards at the same spot. Bumpy track and felt chassis jumping on me. The car is durable for sure. Just gotta get more track time with it and smooth it out.
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Old 04-21-2015, 01:58 PM
  #461  
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I rather run the 3.0 blades also and replace them than tear the axle pins up in my axle like it was doing in my 2.0.
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Old 04-23-2015, 01:20 AM
  #462  
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I just replace the blades frequently. Usually get a days racing out of a set. They are very cheap after all.
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Old 04-23-2015, 07:54 PM
  #463  
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We had Round 2 of the Alberta Touring Series last weekend. After winning Round 1 on my home track, I couldn't touch the local fast guy on his home track Blowing out the rear diff in the A3 main didn't help much either!

http://www.redrc.net/2015/04/alberta...rt/#more-95723

I spent a lot of time this year tuning the car for the Sweep spec tires that I typically race on, but this race was open-tire so I ran Sorex 28s and I never really felt like I had a handle on it. The car was 'ok', but not fast and not particularly easy to drive. That marks the end of my season, so next year I plan to put in some serious setup work with Sorex tires!

I don't think I'll post the setup because it's not much different from my last couple WCICS setups, and I don't feel it's particularly good. If anyone has a good setup for Sorex tires on carpet, I'd love to see it.
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Old 04-23-2015, 10:49 PM
  #464  
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Originally Posted by Steve S
We had Round 2 of the Alberta Touring Series last weekend. After winning Round 1 on my home track, I couldn't touch the local fast guy on his home track Blowing out the rear diff in the A3 main didn't help much either!

http://www.redrc.net/2015/04/alberta...rt/#more-95723

I spent a lot of time this year tuning the car for the Sweep spec tires that I typically race on, but this race was open-tire so I ran Sorex 28s and I never really felt like I had a handle on it. The car was 'ok', but not fast and not particularly easy to drive. That marks the end of my season, so next year I plan to put in some serious setup work with Sorex tires!

I don't think I'll post the setup because it's not much different from my last couple WCICS setups, and I don't feel it's particularly good. If anyone has a good setup for Sorex tires on carpet, I'd love to see it.
Did you by chance get to try the sorex 32's? I tried 28's over and over, having the same feeling you did. Car would feel twitchy and would scrub traction on the high speed sections of the track. I grabbed a set of 32's and man, it was like the on switch was turned on.
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Old 04-24-2015, 12:48 AM
  #465  
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Originally Posted by gearhead_22
I rather run the 3.0 blades also and replace them than tear the axle pins up in my axle like it was doing in my 2.0.
Sounds like I'll need to give it second chance From my knowledge of pin wear in the 747 and the serpent buggys, i am however expecting that to not be much of an issue.

I have ordered the 2.0 spool as well as the Arc spool and many blades - so im set to try it all
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