february

Thanks for your answer. But how do you for use them, it's quite a bit too long, no?

chicky03

iTrader: (1)

Nice job David!

wwddww34

iTrader: (9)

Thanks Paul! I wish you could have been at IIC.

DomenL

You need fornt arm from V2(with 2holes). And you can drive ride height about 5 mm with 63mm tires diameter.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

If you want to run the Yokomo springs there are a couple of things to check to be able to use them. First off you should make sure you have the lower spring locators that where intended for the Serpent short shocks, these should be counter sunk so that the lower shock eyelet seats into the locator. I've seen some people with the original locators for the RCM/RCXX shocks and these sit too high and cause problems with longer springs and ride height issues. Also make sure you have the newer style spring adjusters. These are slightly different then the older ones as they have the top part of the adjuster opened up so if you screw them to the very top of the shock they will actually go up almost into the o-ring, which will give you about 1.5mm more length out of the shock as well. I know that when I use the Yokomo springs I can get the car to about 3.5mm ride height when the adjusters are all the way up, so this should give ample adjustment.

Another thing to watch out for on the car. If you try to run the rear shocks in the lowest setting on the shock tower, check the spring locators for clearance with the arm. I have had to space the lower shock mount out about 2.5 - 3mm on the arm so that the locator was free of the arm. Not sure if its a real issue, but I prefer to not have them touching.

orcadigital

iTrader: (61)

Mike tried the RRS on Sunday (homegrown RRS with the links connected to the underside of the top deck) and did not notice much difference. I did not test it as our practice time was so limited and with the number of cars breaking (not necessarily Serpents), I did not have spare bits for it. I will try it more indoors, but I have heard such mixed information regarding even the assembly, I want some time to play with it before making any real recommendations.

Congratulations! That is a great accomplishment! I was just getting home and could not race 2 weeks straight or would have been there. Honestly Snowbirds is a bit in question as well, big races take a lot out of you.

How did you orient the c-hubs on the RRS? Did you use the RRS kit 2* hubs? What toe blocks did you run also?

I have run the Yokomo springs but old style towers and shocks.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Best to check, but I think if you run the link attachment to the bottom of the top deck you will get toe out on suspension compression, which isn't really what your looking for (or maybe you are).

wwddww34

iTrader: (9)

I used the 2° Caster hubs that came with the RRS kit. I oriented the C-hubs so that the top leaned toward the front of the car (opposite of how the front C-hubs are leaning). I used the 3.5 bracket and the 0.5 split brackets as shown in my setup notes below.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

I also think that with the exception of the wheelbase changing slightly between the available C-hubs in the back, it shouldn't make much of a difference as your only talking about around 2* of toe, which really isn't getting into the sweep part of the steering that would be effected by the castor of the c-hub.

wwddww34

iTrader: (9)

Considering how Mike mounted the links to the underside of the top deck, there is no doubt that he would not see much difference. His RRS setup would be similar to mounting links on the inner hole of the RRS bracket and using 3mm shims on the pivotball height. This would yield a total difference of only 0.18° rear toe (see blue line in top chart of pic below). I chose to use the outer hole on the RRS bracket and a 1mm shim on the pivotball height which would yield a difference of nearly 1.0° rear toe when the car is in full tilt (see green line in bottom chart of pic below).

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

Glad it worked for you!

Did you make any changes as the event went on? I've mostly been swapping between 1.2 and 1.4 front swaybars and playing with the front shock position.

wwddww34

iTrader: (9)

Yes. As the grip continued to grow stronger on the track I used 1.2mm swaybars on front and rear and I layed all 4 of my shocks down as far as possible. I also had to use CA glue on the sidewalls of my front tires to prevent traction roll all throughout the races. The Gravity RC GRC-130 tires had much more grip than the old Jaco Blues ever did.

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

I also had planned on IIC this year, but there was a strong chance my travel partner wasn't going to make it. Plus I can now hit both the Halloween Classic and Indoor Champs.

Definitely next year though

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

I thimk I have a spool indicated on the setup sheet. A front gear diff would've helped with the onthrottle/high speed traction roll issues. Also, how were you cleaning and doping the tires?

wwddww34

iTrader: (9)

I used a front spool for the entire race. I avoided traction rolling by doping only 1/2 of my front tires. I was cleaning the front tires with motor spray after each run. Then 5 mins before my next run I would go to the Tire Doping Impound table and fully dope the rear tires and only dope the inside half of the front tires. I left the tires wet until 10 secs before my run, then I would wipe them with a rag and set the car on the track.