chasingthepack

how do you set yours?
im still trying to understand when it all kicks in,does anyone have a graph to show how it all works?

i have a orion r10 pro which is very similar to the hw

Bappe

i have only tried it on carpet, on short-med length tracks, and then i only ran boost, no turbo (was running hobbywing 2.1 then)

Odin544

iTrader: (93)

I haven't run an orion or hobby wing. But I do know on the Tekin the boost is additional timing that is added throughout the user specified rpm range. Turbo is additional timing that is only added at full throttle, usually after a specified delay time.

So if you add 40 degrees starting at 5k rpm and ending at 25k rpm it will add 1 degrees every 500 rpm after it kicks in. Once it hits the 25k rpm it continues with the 40 degrees.

lethallee69

iTrader: (17)

What turn motor are you using?
Boosted racing is being scaled down in Australia now but in my past experience with 13.5 motors is that more mechanical timing on the motor and using boost and turbo to top it up was working best as it keeps motor temps lower
Motors nowadays seem to be produced for blinky racing ,in spec classes that is

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

All depends on the motor! Usually for 17.5 and 13.5t boosted classes I basically turn everything up to 100%. I.e. Max timing, full turbo with a 3 or 6 degree slop depending on traction level with the boost generally starting at 3-5k RPM. This is on a speed passion reventon pro 1.1 (v21 stock1 s/w). I leave the timing stock on the can which is usually about 10 degrees or so. You need to be very careful with gearing and watch the temp on the motor. You'll need a good 40mm fan on the motor as well. ORCA and Speed Passion motors take the boost quite well I've found so far.

Motors lower wind than 13.5 will need the max timing turning down to suit. Key thing is watch the motor temp! Remember the timing boost set in the esc is additional to the motor can timing!

Modified motors around 4.5t require far less boost and turbo than 'stock' high turn motors so don't ever use the same settings for a 13.5 stock as you would with a 4.5t modified!

chasingthepack

what im asking is for your recommendations,as to how to set it,i have a new hw v10 motor and im coming from an lrp x20 this is all boosted 13.5
the lrp was a noisey but revvy motor,the hw seems to like less boost for the same speed,i used 42 boost and 22 turbo on a gm and the lrp motors but in the last 2 weekends i have blown three rotors on the lrp's,one lost all magnetism,the second cracked the magnet leaving it detached from the rotor,and the 3rd totally disintegrated in the can,so im looking to not go overboard with the esc timing so i can get a motor to last,i have left the static timing as it was set at the factory ,which is at 30 on the can,i cant figure out why the rotors all went on the lrp motors,as i had ran the 1st ,motor for at least 10 meetings before i went to blinky,it de-magnetised after 2 runs,i ran blinky for the winter and came back to boosted and ran it on the same settings i did last year and it went sour
,havent had any trouble with the hw on the same settings,so at a loss as to why the lrp x20's gave up

b.wihardja

i'm not expert but i think there is so many parameter (boost, turbo, punch, etc) that give so many combination available, which need to be simplified with step by step trial searching the best at every step. What i'm doing is setting for fdr first with blinky, and then slowly add boost for the infield, and then lastly add turbo for straight. All is done with temperature consideration and experiment with higher or lower fdr. With this tedious task, actually i'm endded up on C or B main , but i'm sure there is many parameter involved too like practice, luck, etc

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Try a total of 40 degrees boost timing (can timing + esc boost) with a ramp starting 5k - 28k with 6 degree slope. Then I'd set turbo to + 15-20 degrees more with a 0.1s FOT delay. That should be ok for 13.5t. Most temp issues arise from over gearing the motor when on boosted setups.

Fly'n Fish

You have an intersting problem there! Maybe your ESC has a problem? De-magnetising happens on dc motors with too much heat or current. Not to hijack the thread but does anyone have some good technical source / descrption of how all this boosting / turbo works? I am avoid all this by being a sheep and buying whatever pro is using and then usinng their settings verbatim, they have the inside knowledge and have blown a dozen motors seeing how fast they can go I guess, no need for me to do the same (not as fun though

chasingthepack

changed the esc for another but the same problem occurs with the lrp motors

there does seem to be some sort of arcing on the steel part of the rotor thats left,hence the esc swap
but on a brand new motor with a different esc it still demagnetised the rotor and making another motor an expensive paperweight as lrp do not sell the rotors on there own for the stock motor

chasingthepack

the problem i have is that the orion r10 muchlike the hw v3, doesnt give a true degree reading but goes up in steps ie

boost 0 to 64 total 32 degrees
turbo 0 to 40 total 12 degrees
so a total of 104 steps totalling 42 degrees
however then im told that anymore than 64 steps and it cancels out the turbo ,so im at 42 boost 22 turbo,with my maths skills i cant work out what degrees the esc is at
other settings are
drag brake off
punch level 9 max
boost start 3000
boost timing acc 300
turbo slope rate 18d/0.1s
turbo delay 0.4

Jampot

You give all the beans on forums yet u don't understand how to set up something simple....
LOL
U haven't mentioned track size I presume west London?

I will give u a little tip because regardless of me thinking u are a complete nonse for ur attitude towards me on a different forum, I still wouldn't wish anyone an expensive failure like a motor melt and to have 3 ALARM bells should have been ringing..

I am not familiar with prions and I would strongly recommend a speedo change as it is proven slow in onroad.

Lrp's are a different kettle of fish very simple with one in ur car go to scratch turn it all down and gear it very conservatively.
Lrp's don't need heavy timing nor boost the rev there nuts out so don't need high tall gearing.

Stop with 10 min runs! All u do is generate excessive heat a race is 5 mins so either go around for 20 laps or against the clock for 5 mins plus the extra lap.

daleburr

I think that Orion ESC is like the old Hobbywing v2.1. If so you don't have a total of 104 steps available, you have a total of 64, which can come from either boost or turbo. So you're actually maxed out on ESC timing, which is way too much for that LRP motor. But I guess you know that now you've killed 3 of them. Rotors are available separately, part no 50635, so you can fix them.

With boosted you need to start conservatively (in blinky mode if you really don't know what to do), do a 5 minute run and take the temperature. Gradually add boost 5deg at a time until your motor is getting to around 70deg after a run then you're done. Grip level has a big impact on temp, so 70deg gives you some margin for when the grip comes up on race day.

From your settings, increase the start rpm to 9000, reduce boost to 30 and turbo to 15, and turbo ramp to 6, and you'll be more in the ball park for an lrp.

frozenpod

iTrader: (1)

Try 30 deg of boost and 15 deg of turbo 8:1 FDR and run the car for 2 minutes and check the temp. I run my 13.5T with boost tuned for maximum performance and it comes of the track after 6 minutes at 65 - 70 deg C.

Also set the turbo delay to 0.0 or 0.05, it will be a lot easier to drive.

chasingthepack

i ended up with those settings based on a schumacher driver that ran the v10 motor and he was using a hw 3.1 with 30 boost and 39 turbo,so i already thought i was being conservative