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Old 04-25-2014, 04:28 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by chasingthepack View Post
correct ,its 5.91 and a 28 makes it 5.70
5.70 is to high for west london and probably anywhere else!!
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Old 04-25-2014, 04:46 AM   #32
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Hahahahah just changed over to 64dp in my 13.5T today and realised I was running 5.7fdr, we have a long straight though but have just slightly dropped it. One thing I would do to the current setup is to drop the turbo and up the boost, thus allowing a more gradual increase of RPM via the boost timing, what can happen is lag from excess turbo from the old whiskey throttle when getting onto the straightaway, you all of a sudden get on the squeeze which throws a lot of timing in all at once. Just my two cents, good thread though so far, as the ole 13.5 side of the fence is somewhat lacking on the forums
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Old 04-25-2014, 02:02 PM   #33
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5.70 is to high for west london and probably anywhere else!!
i was running 6.1 at wlrc im now set up for the next dry meeting at amcc,ive found the hw motor to have a very similar feel to the gm i used last year ,hence the gearing is around the same as i ran then,the lrp motor was at 6.9 for amcc and just over 7 for wlrc
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Old 09-03-2017, 11:54 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by chasingthepack View Post
the problem i have is that the orion r10 muchlike the hw v3, doesnt give a true degree reading but goes up in steps ie

boost 0 to 64 total 32 degrees
turbo 0 to 40 total 12 degrees
so a total of 104 steps totalling 42 degrees
however then im told that anymore than 64 steps and it cancels out the turbo ,so im at 42 boost 22 turbo,with my maths skills i cant work out what degrees the esc is at
other settings are
drag brake off
punch level 9 max
boost start 3000
boost timing acc 300
turbo slope rate 18d/0.1s
turbo delay 0.4
I think the punch level is more like a limiter and since your trying to add so much boost and timing its acting against one another, try turning down punch to setting 1 . If your spinning the tires your not going any where. I had a similar problem with temps and that was it, I was also able to use less boost and timing which also brought temps down
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Old 09-04-2017, 09:03 AM   #35
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I sure hope the problems were solved during the last 3 years.
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Old 09-04-2017, 09:11 AM   #36
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Quote:
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what im asking is for your recommendations,as to how to set it,i have a new hw v10 motor and im coming from an lrp x20 this is all boosted 13.5
the lrp was a noisey but revvy motor,the hw seems to like less boost for the same speed,i used 42 boost and 22 turbo p
If your numbers are correct at 30 can + 42 boost + 22 turbo then you have 94 degrees of total timing or more importantly, 72 degrees + turbo.

I'm not a motor "guru" but I believe the point where a motor pulse starts to run backwards is somewhere between 68~72 degrees. So given that assumption, I believe total max timing for a "qualifying" motor that you intend to kill in 3 runs would be 62 degrees total.
On motors that you want to use for more than 2 weeks I would use 57 degrees as my target. So lets call it 22* can + 30* boost and 5* turbo.
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Old 09-07-2017, 03:13 PM   #37
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Strangely, I've always (and considered for myself) that this point is 94.

We are here running a single category with 13.5 boosted. I've made a lot of test between motors and clearly that's the first parameter you have to consider. Then comes the ESC, which will allows you to properly control the motor. In this configuration, ESC are not as sollicited as motors. Motors will be the primay heat source, that's why you'll need proper fan on it.

Then you have to consider the track. If you can split the track in a slow technical layout and a fast straight lane or a very fast section, it means that you'll need boost and turbo to reach optimal speed. If you are running a 100% technical track or 100% open track, you can go with the boost only.

Mechanical timing can be adjusted also. Most common values are between 30 and 40 degrees, also based on track. Ratio is very important also, it can vary between 6.7 and 6.2.

At last but not least, you have to consider the punch parameter (punch or power or DDRS, whatever) because if you wheels are slipping, the motor will heat more.
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Old 09-07-2017, 03:59 PM   #38
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necro-posting at it's finest.
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Old 09-08-2017, 03:05 AM   #39
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I sure hope the problems were solved during the last 3 years.
Yes, the original poster runs 17.5 blinky
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Old 09-08-2017, 05:44 AM   #40
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Though this post was dug up from the depths of rctech I thought I would share some information on this topic.

Now, I run boosted 13.5 and 17.5 here in Japan and come up with a really good setup.

A really good starting point for a medium sized carpet track.

17.5T and 13.5T Motor Setup

Motor timing - 30~40 degrees timing (1.9~2.4A) - Motor checker used
ESC Settings - Boost 38~40 degrees/Turbo 22~26 degrees/Turbo slope fastest/Turbo Delay ''0''.

Keep in mind gearing is all dependent on track size, rotor, and motor your using.

Temperatures should be around 65~85 degrees Celsius and this varies with your motor and driving style.

Hope this helps.
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Old 09-09-2017, 07:41 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
Though this post was dug up from the depths of rctech I thought I would share some information on this topic.

Now, I run boosted 13.5 and 17.5 here in Japan and come up with a really good setup.

A really good starting point for a medium sized carpet track.

17.5T and 13.5T Motor Setup

Motor timing - 30~40 degrees timing (1.9~2.4A) - Motor checker used
ESC Settings - Boost 38~40 degrees/Turbo 22~26 degrees/Turbo slope fastest/Turbo Delay ''0''.

Keep in mind gearing is all dependent on track size, rotor, and motor your using.

Temperatures should be around 65~85 degrees Celsius and this varies with your motor and driving style.

Hope this helps.
I've found that when I use an aggressive 'slope' for the turbo (ORCA with Fantom) it just produces heat, not speed.
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Old 09-09-2017, 08:06 AM   #42
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I've found that when I use an aggressive 'slope' for the turbo (ORCA with Fantom) it just produces heat, not speed.
I tend to use (R1 ESC and motor). That said, a lot of the drivers here in Japan use various ESCs but run R1 motors and have not problems with this setup I've posted. However, every ESC and motor combination will differ with heat and performance.

For example, Yokomo's ESC motor setup at this years Japanese 13.5 nationals was generating around 3.5 amps (motor checker) and around 85~90 degrees Celsius after 5 minutes.

R1 Wurks 13.5 V7 was running around 2.1 amps (motor checker) and was coming off around 65~75 degrees Celsius. In addition, the motor posted the fastest lap, best TQ run, and straightaway speed.

So, for everyone to understand every motor and ESC setup will differ.
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