164LikesTamiya TB Evo 6
02-06-2017, 01:10 PM
#2446
Okay TB Evo6 experts, I need some help/advice. 
I picked up a used TB Evo 6 MS w/Exo6 conversion off of here, used obviously. I got the car in and unfortunately it was in worse shape than described - and such is the risk of buying something used. I'm having an issue with the gear diffs/drive line... The car is "notchy" when rotating the spur gear. There are gear diffs in the front and rear of car, which is fine, I actually run my TC6.1 that way in USGT.
Here is what I've done:
Removed the gear diffs and rebuilt them both, both were not shimmed correctly.
Inspected all the internal metal gears (under magnifier) and they all look clean and straight.
Replaced incorrect shims with new and also shimmed it per instructions.
Replaced green diff seals. Replaced copper bushings with rubber shielded 5x8x2.5 bearings.
Inspected both front and rear gear cases and they look fine.
The screws holding the top deck were too long and didn't cinch down the top deck, so replaced those with the correct screws.
Cleaned, re-greased everything and reassembled the driveline, and low and behold it is doing the same thing...
It's not near as "clicky" as it was but it is still happening.
Now though, I can rotate the spur about 80% the way around and then it "notches" a few times, and then is free. Then does it again... I have no idea what is the issue. I checked the attachment of the stock gear to the Exotek drive shaft at the rear and also the attachment of the front drive gear and they are correct. Wasn't sure if there was a shimming issue there, but as much as I can tell all is correct.
I'm just at a loss on this thing - I have spent about 4 hours working on this car and while it's a little better it still isn't "right". I definitely don't want to run it with this notching issue.
Any tips or suggestions would hugely appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
-Barry
I picked up a used TB Evo 6 MS w/Exo6 conversion off of here, used obviously. I got the car in and unfortunately it was in worse shape than described - and such is the risk of buying something used. I'm having an issue with the gear diffs/drive line... The car is "notchy" when rotating the spur gear. There are gear diffs in the front and rear of car, which is fine, I actually run my TC6.1 that way in USGT.
Here is what I've done:
Removed the gear diffs and rebuilt them both, both were not shimmed correctly.
Inspected all the internal metal gears (under magnifier) and they all look clean and straight.
Replaced incorrect shims with new and also shimmed it per instructions.
Replaced green diff seals. Replaced copper bushings with rubber shielded 5x8x2.5 bearings.
Inspected both front and rear gear cases and they look fine.
The screws holding the top deck were too long and didn't cinch down the top deck, so replaced those with the correct screws.
Cleaned, re-greased everything and reassembled the driveline, and low and behold it is doing the same thing...
It's not near as "clicky" as it was but it is still happening.
Now though, I can rotate the spur about 80% the way around and then it "notches" a few times, and then is free. Then does it again... I have no idea what is the issue. I checked the attachment of the stock gear to the Exotek drive shaft at the rear and also the attachment of the front drive gear and they are correct. Wasn't sure if there was a shimming issue there, but as much as I can tell all is correct.
I'm just at a loss on this thing - I have spent about 4 hours working on this car and while it's a little better it still isn't "right". I definitely don't want to run it with this notching issue.
Any tips or suggestions would hugely appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
-Barry
02-06-2017, 02:43 PM
#2447
Try isolating each gearbox to see whether the notching is coming from the front or rear. You may need to adjust the shimming away from the manual settings if it's too tight. Just make sure you have a tiny amount of play in the gears, not too much. Also check your bearings if you haven't already.
02-06-2017, 03:04 PM
#2448
Okay TB Evo6 experts, I need some help/advice.
I picked up a used TB Evo 6 MS w/Exo6 conversion off of here, used obviously. I got the car in and unfortunately it was in worse shape than described - and such is the risk of buying something used. I'm having an issue with the gear diffs/drive line... The car is "notchy" when rotating the spur gear. There are gear diffs in the front and rear of car, which is fine, I actually run my TC6.1 that way in USGT.
Here is what I've done:
Removed the gear diffs and rebuilt them both, both were not shimmed correctly.
Inspected all the internal metal gears (under magnifier) and they all look clean and straight.
Replaced incorrect shims with new and also shimmed it per instructions.
Replaced green diff seals. Replaced copper bushings with rubber shielded 5x8x2.5 bearings.
Inspected both front and rear gear cases and they look fine.
The screws holding the top deck were too long and didn't cinch down the top deck, so replaced those with the correct screws.
Cleaned, re-greased everything and reassembled the driveline, and low and behold it is doing the same thing...
It's not near as "clicky" as it was but it is still happening.
Now though, I can rotate the spur about 80% the way around and then it "notches" a few times, and then is free. Then does it again... I have no idea what is the issue. I checked the attachment of the stock gear to the Exotek drive shaft at the rear and also the attachment of the front drive gear and they are correct. Wasn't sure if there was a shimming issue there, but as much as I can tell all is correct.
I'm just at a loss on this thing - I have spent about 4 hours working on this car and while it's a little better it still isn't "right". I definitely don't want to run it with this notching issue.
Any tips or suggestions would hugely appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
-Barry
I picked up a used TB Evo 6 MS w/Exo6 conversion off of here, used obviously. I got the car in and unfortunately it was in worse shape than described - and such is the risk of buying something used. I'm having an issue with the gear diffs/drive line... The car is "notchy" when rotating the spur gear. There are gear diffs in the front and rear of car, which is fine, I actually run my TC6.1 that way in USGT.
Here is what I've done:
Removed the gear diffs and rebuilt them both, both were not shimmed correctly.
Inspected all the internal metal gears (under magnifier) and they all look clean and straight.
Replaced incorrect shims with new and also shimmed it per instructions.
Replaced green diff seals. Replaced copper bushings with rubber shielded 5x8x2.5 bearings.
Inspected both front and rear gear cases and they look fine.
The screws holding the top deck were too long and didn't cinch down the top deck, so replaced those with the correct screws.
Cleaned, re-greased everything and reassembled the driveline, and low and behold it is doing the same thing...
It's not near as "clicky" as it was but it is still happening.
Now though, I can rotate the spur about 80% the way around and then it "notches" a few times, and then is free. Then does it again... I have no idea what is the issue. I checked the attachment of the stock gear to the Exotek drive shaft at the rear and also the attachment of the front drive gear and they are correct. Wasn't sure if there was a shimming issue there, but as much as I can tell all is correct.
I'm just at a loss on this thing - I have spent about 4 hours working on this car and while it's a little better it still isn't "right". I definitely don't want to run it with this notching issue.
Any tips or suggestions would hugely appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
-Barry
This is the piece I am refering to:
http://www.exotekracing.com/exo-five...t-replacement/
Loosen the three attachment screws on the bottom of the chassis and align the mount so that it is perpendicular to the driveshaft. This should ensure that the inner wall of the bearing isn't contacting the driveshaft at an angle and is spinning freely.
In addition, check that the motor mount bearing is not seized and that the M2x4 screw attaching the drivecup is tightened down.
Last edited by B. Santos; 02-06-2017 at 03:56 PM.
02-06-2017, 03:42 PM
#2449
Sounds like it could be a runout issue with the center motor mount/driveshaft bearing.
This is the piece I am refering to:
http://www.exotekracing.com/exo-five...t-replacement/
Loosen the three attachment screws on the bottom of the chassis and align the mount so that it is perpendicular to the driveshaft. This should ensure that the inner wall of the bearing isn't contacting the driveshaft at angle and is spinning freely.
In addition, check that the motor mount bearing is not seized and that the M2x4 screw attaching the drivecup is tightened down.
This is the piece I am refering to:
http://www.exotekracing.com/exo-five...t-replacement/
Loosen the three attachment screws on the bottom of the chassis and align the mount so that it is perpendicular to the driveshaft. This should ensure that the inner wall of the bearing isn't contacting the driveshaft at angle and is spinning freely.
In addition, check that the motor mount bearing is not seized and that the M2x4 screw attaching the drivecup is tightened down.
Did you do TCS with your TA07?
02-06-2017, 06:40 PM
#2451
Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Can't wait to try these out. Need to do some repair work to my Associated 6.1 (got nailed in the last race at our track), but will give all these a try. I didn't want to spend the $$ getting all new internals if I didn't need to.
Hopefully I can find the issue and this will save me from having to order all new stuff.
Hopefully I can find the issue and this will save me from having to order all new stuff.
02-07-2017, 07:12 PM
#2452
Thanks for all the suggestions guys! Found that is was the input gear in the front of the drive shaft. Removed the front gear diff and put the gear cover back on and it was smooth, so knew it was something at the front. Before taking the gear diff apart (again) I decided to check the play at the front input gear. Shimmed it per the instructions and added a 0.2 shim at the back of the rear bearing, and voila! Thing is spinning free now. Electronics are going in tomorrow!
Thanks again for the help. Course, I thought I had checked that already, but I guess not.
Thanks again for the help. Course, I thought I had checked that already, but I guess not.
Try isolating each gearbox to see whether the notching is coming from the front or rear. You may need to adjust the shimming away from the manual settings if it's too tight. Just make sure you have a tiny amount of play in the gears, not too much. Also check your bearings if you haven't already.
02-07-2017, 09:07 PM
#2453
I will get even looser after a few racedays....
02-11-2017, 11:32 AM
#2455
If anyone is interested in a new lower aluminum ms chassis and lower aluminum gearboxes - shoot me a pm.
02-21-2017, 08:43 PM
#2457
Mike, any news on the aluminum bulkheads?
02-22-2017, 01:30 PM
#2458
Anybody experiment with zero rear toe ???
02-22-2017, 05:33 PM
#2459
Not quite, but on high grip carpet or asphalt .5 degrees rear toe works great. Never tried 0 degrees but will do so just to see how it feels compared to .5 degrees.
If conditions change and the car loosens up a bit I first experiment with different rear wings. This is on a GT10 or USGT body where a low or high down force wing can give just the right amount of rear stability and maintain that nice rotation through the turns that shaft drive cars seem to deliver. I usually keep around 4-5 different wings of varying DF. I also run a ball diff which allows for a wide variety of tightness to get that rear end working to perfection.
If conditions change and the car loosens up a bit I first experiment with different rear wings. This is on a GT10 or USGT body where a low or high down force wing can give just the right amount of rear stability and maintain that nice rotation through the turns that shaft drive cars seem to deliver. I usually keep around 4-5 different wings of varying DF. I also run a ball diff which allows for a wide variety of tightness to get that rear end working to perfection.
